Recent content by Danh

0w-20

Looking at my 2025 CRV a hybrid it looks like the swap requires one to be either very tall or enough of a contortionist to crawl on top of the engine. How bad is it?

Dunno about the sludge spot but my understanding is that oil consumption in K24s is many times caused by coked-up (not that kind…) rings. This could be an excellent candidate for Valvoline Restore and Protect, the current darling of this forum.

On new Toyotas at least, the manual says Toyota will not deny a warranty claim based on lack of documentation, only on lack of maintenance. So if the warranty is the same simply writing changes down in a log book may be sufficient. So seems to me if you bring in a sludged and badly varnished...

Yes, it’s a DI engine now. Wish Honda could go the port/DI combination like Toyota…

Haven’t had a long road trip after cold weather/elevated oil level, so no. But prior experience suggests that doesn’t help a lot. What I think (?) I’ve learned is that gasoline has many individual elements, some of which have pretty high flash or evaporation points when mixed with motor oil. So...

Agree on the UOA provided gas chromotography is used to measure. Oil Analyzers is a good lab for this. I have the 2.0 hybrid also and, while hardly scientific, after lots of short trips in pretty cold temperatures, the oil level on the dipstick rose about 3/16 of an inch. To me this suggests...

There’s your answer. The MM will knock off 8.3% of oil life each month even if not driven. So if the car had been undriven for 10 months or taken a single long 2,000 mile trip you’d see the same answer. So it’s not clear if it’s responding simply to time or actual driving conditions.

Regardless of the outcome of this saga, it’s a good idea to actually see the tires they are putting on your car and look at the manufacture date. Reject them if too old for your taste.

Really depends on where the filter is located. My K24s have the filter tucked away in a spot where a firm hand grip isn’t possible. And even if accessible it can be hard to get the 3/4-1 turn after gasket contact without some leverage. I use a cap-end wrench and choose my filters to fit it...

Another interesting bit of that era’s tech: if (IF) your KCar had A/C there was a button you would push to activate it. Want un-air conditioned air out of the dash vent? Pull the button out. This may been common for Chrysler products, but and oddity anyway.

It’s been a while but rattles, creaks, interior bits that would fall off, fit & finish (if you can call it that), premature rust through corrosion, transmission that would periodically downshift while cruising at highway speed on a level road (I.e. no need). Mine had the Mitsubishi engine so...

Owned the station wagon version. Let’s say the concept was considerably better than the execution. But is a reminder of how basic cars used to be: power steering was an option, as were electric windows, power windows, cruise control, rear window defroster, etc. And tires were 175/70-13s.

Recognizing there may be a lot more to it, isn’t the usual approach to LSPI protection less calcium and more magnesium? As this is “only” SN-rated, perhaps not a good choice for TGDI engines?

The transmission reset for my Acura goes like this: Turn the ignition on without starting the engine (i.e. don’t depress brake pedal) Within 5 seconds of turning the ignition on depress accelerator to the floor for 15-30 seconds During this time the CEL should go off Restart engine Don’t know...