Recent content by cfromc

I was kind of feeling the same way. I also have a 1996 Sportster and a 2004 Road King - like two of the members who posted.

Nice wear numbers....

I think I just perform this exercise every few years and end up with a similar result basically. Always chasing "the perfect oil". I had a bad experience once with a Mobil product in my 1996 Sportster and I've been mainly sticking with Amsoil or Redline since. I did buy a ton of VP Racing 15W-50...

The 10W-50 versions of Redline both have a significantly higher VI of 183, versus the 15W-50 and 20W-50 versions which fall between 155 and 162. No magic bullet I suppose. I was looking for better flow at start-up and maybe a bit better fuel economy. The usual ambient temperatures at start-up...

Yes

I've done some searching and can't find much. Is anyone using a 10W-50 for any Harley engines? For example, the Redline 10W-50's (Auto and Powersports) provide similar 100C viscosity, lower 40C viscosity, better VI, and similar NOACK as the 15W-50 and 20W-50 versions. The HTHS of Auto is 5.0...

I drive under 7,500 miles a year and use about 2 tanks of gas per year. The gas I use is mainly due to low temps and the mandatory cycling of old fuel.

On my 2011 I change the oil every 2 years. No problems yet as most of my driving is on the battery. I burn 2 tanks of gas per year.

NextGen 5W-30 gave me horrible oil consumption. I wouldn't say it was superior to anything. I just need to "burn" through another 12 quarts and I'll never use it again.

I've done a pump in a Firebird and in a Suburban. I've done several injectors in the Firebird and in a Cadillac STS. After the Suburban pump job I said there has to be a way to avoid this. I've been using Lucas UCL ever since (about 7-8 years) and I've not needed another pump or injector since...

$0.10 or maybe even a little more. I like going a little further on a tank. Over the course of a year I may save a couple trips to the gas station and that is worth $0.10-$0.20/gal.

Seems legitimate to me. The goal of a drag race is to win and if it saves a few hundreths then so be it. The purpose of these engines is to win races, not to last for 200,000 miles.

^Why use a 10W-30? Especially in CO?

Funny that some people actually think changing the air filter every year or 15K is good for the engine. Barring a damaged filter, improper installation or a massively loaded filter due to environmental conditions the filter will actually catch more contaminants as it loads up. I had an Amsoil Ea...

Originally Posted By: oldhp To me. Hi-performance or drag car = K&N type oiled gauze filter. Every day cars/trucks = OEM or OEM replacement filter, i.e., Wix, Fram, Purolator etc. +1 I've run K&N on a car I sold to a friend at 152K, he sold it at 177K - the engine did not grenade. On a...