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I was kind of feeling the same way. I also have a 1996 Sportster and a 2004 Road King - like two of the members who posted.

Nice wear numbers....

I think I just perform this exercise every few years and end up with a similar result basically. Always chasing "the perfect oil". I had a bad experience once with a Mobil product in my 1996 Sportster and I've been mainly sticking with Amsoil or Redline since. I did buy a ton of VP Racing 15W-50...

The 10W-50 versions of Redline both have a significantly higher VI of 183, versus the 15W-50 and 20W-50 versions which fall between 155 and 162. No magic bullet I suppose. I was looking for better flow at start-up and maybe a bit better fuel economy. The usual ambient temperatures at start-up...

Yes

I've done some searching and can't find much. Is anyone using a 10W-50 for any Harley engines? For example, the Redline 10W-50's (Auto and Powersports) provide similar 100C viscosity, lower 40C viscosity, better VI, and similar NOACK as the 15W-50 and 20W-50 versions. The HTHS of Auto is 5.0...

I drive under 7,500 miles a year and use about 2 tanks of gas per year. The gas I use is mainly due to low temps and the mandatory cycling of old fuel.

On my 2011 I change the oil every 2 years. No problems yet as most of my driving is on the battery. I burn 2 tanks of gas per year.

NextGen 5W-30 gave me horrible oil consumption. I wouldn't say it was superior to anything. I just need to "burn" through another 12 quarts and I'll never use it again.

I've done a pump in a Firebird and in a Suburban. I've done several injectors in the Firebird and in a Cadillac STS. After the Suburban pump job I said there has to be a way to avoid this. I've been using Lucas UCL ever since (about 7-8 years) and I've not needed another pump or injector since...

$0.10 or maybe even a little more. I like going a little further on a tank. Over the course of a year I may save a couple trips to the gas station and that is worth $0.10-$0.20/gal.

Seems legitimate to me. The goal of a drag race is to win and if it saves a few hundreths then so be it. The purpose of these engines is to win races, not to last for 200,000 miles.

^Why use a 10W-30? Especially in CO?

Funny that some people actually think changing the air filter every year or 15K is good for the engine. Barring a damaged filter, improper installation or a massively loaded filter due to environmental conditions the filter will actually catch more contaminants as it loads up. I had an Amsoil Ea...

Originally Posted By: oldhp To me. Hi-performance or drag car = K&N type oiled gauze filter. Every day cars/trucks = OEM or OEM replacement filter, i.e., Wix, Fram, Purolator etc. +1 I've run K&N on a car I sold to a friend at 152K, he sold it at 177K - the engine did not grenade. On a...

Originally Posted By: FetchFar Originally Posted By: Corvette Owner Which is why I said "alone". I would stick with the GM OLM, they have done much research and will even change it if their data indicates it. They changed it on my daughter's Equinox. Nobody would use it alone. Its easy to...

5K on OE 5W-30 for me due to OLM. The XL looks nearly the same except more TBN but for 5-6K the OE should be fine. 5-6K isn't really that long for nearly any oil and I don't see why the slightly higher TBN of XL would be needed.

2004 Trailblazer V8 EXT about 100 miles per 1% mixed driving. 2011 Cruze turbo about 90-110 miles per 1% mixed driving. 2012 Chevrolet Malibu 3.6 DI 50 miles per 1% city, mixed, or highway driving. I've gone on vacation all highway, still 50 miles, all city still 50 miles, mixed still 50 miles...

There seems to be a big discrepancy between the PQIA test and the data sheets for some of the oils, specifically, QSUD, PU, PP. (the only ones I checked). The NOACK of those oils seems especially low versus the three year old data sheets on the respective websites. Is that due to DEXOS1?

The last bottle I had claimed up to an 18,000-mile OCI IIRC.