Recent content by BurrWinder

The best trick I was taught some years ago is to do any of these to clean the w/s interior with a glass cleaner ( once or twice depending on residue, smoker, etc.) and then to use pure clear water on the window and rewipe the window with a clean towel to finish the job. This seems to end the...

My personal opinion is that the rope plugs suck for a long term repair. The Tech rubber type that uses rubber cement and vulcanizes to the tire are unbeatable for a on rim repair. Obviously off rim plug patch is best in any situation for safety. Other than a complete emergency, I think the rope...

This is the answer here. Anyone that has been a tech for any length of time is aware that the threads can gall or corrode for various reasons and a thin layer of anti seize that is applied carefully ( not close to the plug base ) is the answer to preventing this. I think part of the reason this...

This is very true - I have had great luck with Fel Pro items over the years, but it seems that some aftermarket is again changing in quality. I used to always specify MOOG suspension at the dealer level on non warranty GM items - esp trucks as the OE GM parts such as a pitman or idler arms as...

I am a ( + 1 ) on the hybrid as well. I have had mine for 4 years and it works very well for very little operating cost. Plus the benefit of the dehumidification. It runs cheaper than my old gas water heater did. You can even get ones that are 120V and can plug in to a shared or dedicated...

This is 100% correct. I am not suggesting we start removing Cat Converters or removing Diesel emission controls here, but people get so defensive as " Well, it isn't legal ! " Just because Uncle Sam hasn't blessed it it can't POSSIBLY have any merit in their eyes ! This is the point I have tried...

I agree. Proper aiming and alignment do wonders for not creating issues with LED replacements, not to mention need to be done just for OE lamps to be safe and fuctional. Despite the archaic laws that the US has on headlamp usage and systems these lamps can greatly improve lighting safety for the...

+1 - Plus these guys will give you a free new kit if it reoccurs... Been a huge improvement in my son's 06 Fusion headlamp lenses. BurrWinder

I am "spoiled" as I come from Wisconsin. Milk and any dairy here is usually amazing in quality. Most of the fluid milk in an area is often the same, just different labels and the dairy processing hub. Although some stores sources take quite a ride from farm to store, which doesn't help freshness...

Sorry, just reread your post. If you are sincerely worried about hammering out the old stud and some side load on the bearing, just get some 2x4's or what have you and carefully jamb in behind hub on bearing support metal 180 deg. apart and out of your way of your stud and hammer away. That will...

One other thing, some studs have an unthreaded pilot on them that will make them much more difficult if there is not much room available. if possible, get one without this pilot if able to ahead of time, or make sure you have enough room as this will make a big difference if you have one that is...

The hubs are mostly on GM's in a triangle shape, therefore, you just need to rotate the hub to one of the " flats " to get the proper room to install the stud / or remove it... in RARE occurrences, i have seen the round " head " part ground at a small angle to get just enough extra room to slide...

You may need to INSERT it initially in at an angle, BUT once in the back of hub just square it up and straighten it out with your hand up to the point where it starts to have the fluting on it... THEN you get to " pulling " it on with the setup as in pt 2 of the pics... No real special tools...

Here is a visual aid.... Just pound it out of the hub carefully... not brain surgery... I like to index somewhat the knurled/fluted part into the hub upon reassembly for ease, but not completely necessary... https://www.familyhandyman.com/automotiv...-stud/view-all/ BurrWinder

No, just need to remove the brake caliper and mount, and the rotor. Then you can pound out the old stud with a hammer and punch too, if needed. Get the correct stud and some large nuts/washers to build up against the hub ( to not damage it and to draw against ) and use a standard (non acorn )...