Recent content by brandon9715

Exactly. My point is not that it can’t happen, anything can happen. The chances of it happening are near zero. It’s the equivalent of saying “don’t go outside ever in your life because you never know, you could be struck by lightning.” I would argue the likelihood of being struck by lighting is...

“Almost 200 years of collective experience and none of us have ever seen this”

Yup, corrosion/rust will make small leaks first 99% of the time. Even if a big area somehow all rusted through at the same exact rate, it would let out a big puff of air and be done. The only way I can think of an air compressor exploding like a grenade is if the pressure switch failed so it...

For homeowner use once or twice a year, why would anyone need 60 gallons? Sure, bigger is better for continuous spraying, but that’s unnecessary imo.

I bought a Grip Rite GR2500 at a local auctioneer for $25, tax included. It’s beat up, but builds air and performs without issues. I would like a larger tank, but for how often I undercoat vehicles (2x a year total) it works no problem. I would prioritize a compressor that is oiled. They last...

I will echo that Saber is also very good. My top 3 are Saber, VP, and Red Armor for price/performance. JASO-FD is mandatory imo.

Chick Fil A has them at all locations now afaik. They even have them up here in Michigan.

The claim is cleaning existing carbon deposits specifically. Preventing deposits is another thing entirely. Red Armor does clean carbon deposits.

YouTube is a platform. It has both very in depth and well thought out studies as well as drivel from shills. There are many videos on YouTube showing evidence of Red Armor cleaning, as well as on forums. So far, all I’ve heard is someone claim Red Armor doesn’t clean without any evidence to back...

Really? Red Armor removing carbon is pretty well documented, both on forums and YouTube, as well as their marketing claims.

I’ll have to look into it more, but I’m not convinced a fuel injector cleaner, whether it be solvent based or PEA based, would be ideal. Solvent based would obviously be bad because it would simply dilute the lubrication of the oil and stop it from clinging as well. PEA might help with hard...

OP is clearly saying that Red Armor is the only 2 stroke oil that claims cleaning explicitly, and I think he’s correct. I don’t know of others that make the claim. Red Armor does a good job at cleaning, it’s what I’m currently running. I agree that Valvoline Restore and Protect or another...

In this case though, OP is wanting to move from Amsoil ASE, which (at least previously) was a no VII 10w30/SAE 30 oil, and move to a traditional SAE 30.

Sithl oil in general is terrible imo. No reason to use any oil without an FD rating when FD oils are so easily available and affordable.