I worked with a guy who believed any synthetic could go 15K or more. He ran the cheapest synthetic he could get. He used to be an auto mechanic in his early days. He thought I was nuts changing it at 5000-7500 miles, lol.
I’ve got enough 0W20 and 5W30 to make a franken brew. Both are Mobil 1 Extended Performance. It’ll be about 4 oil changes worth. 1 jug of 5W30 and 2.5 arts of 0W20. Till all the 0W20 is used up. This will be going in the Tundra…unless my original engine has other plans.
After all this I’ll switch to 5W30 or even 0W30. Going back to my OG AMSOIL Signature Series. I have two oil changes worth of 0W20 EP. Hopefully by then my Tundra will either have its engine replaced or their data says it won’t. So far no metal is present in the oil filter.
This is in the Toyota 3.4L TT. These passages seem awfully small. I’m assuming that’s why 0W20 is recommended. Would the small passages cause any affect with 5W30? I’m sure most if not all manufacturers design engines this way. Those that run 5W30 have no issues.
I should have picked some up the other day…oh well. The Pilot still gets it. The Tundra I’m waiting for the engine to be replaced due to the new recall.
My son’s f150 sees mostly 4 mile drives. Valvoline Restore and Protect has been in the sump since last fall. I checked the oil last spring and it still looked new so I left it. Will change it in the fall. Should have 4K miles, lol.
I was thinking on trying HPL no VI oils, 5W20 in my Tundra. Since it’s now on the engine replacement recall I’m not wasting my money. I’ll stick to EP probably 5W30. 27K and it’s running great. Oil gets changed every 5K.