Recent content by Alex_V

I haven't seen a truly high number of vehicles meeting this criteria so it's more of a casual observation, but the rear main seal seems to have a much higher rate of starting to leak above 250K.

1981-83 Mercedes 240D. Hands down.

Inherent fear of turbochargers/engines with them is a 20+ year old mindset. There are plenty of N/A engines with chronic issues, and a good percentage of boosted designs that prove very reliable. It all depends on the specific design aka how much of a crap the manufacturer gave about it...

Not ideal but I don't consider that high. Zero or near-zero oil consumption is something you can get lucky with but can't be counted on from a new, run-of-the-mill consumer car. Especially if you only follow the recommended OCI's and, in some cases, oil spec. I bought a Chevy Cruze new in...

A lot of vehicles don't need more than their value (or, especially, replacement cost) spent on them to get where that truck is at, in the shape it's in. The operator just needs to understand what causes critical wear/what doesn't, what's money wasted on maintenance and what isn't, and realize...

I have to think they are comprehensively the better for it.

Black diesel is one name for waste motor oil turned into fuel.

Looking for recommendations where to send a sample from my first batch of black diesel to get some data on how well my setup is filtering, and the lubricity (HFRR) of my initial blend. Suggestions?

The fear of a thinner oil is that it doesn't keep a good enough oil film between the parts to prevent metal/metal contact. That the wear numbers are so consistent between high-quality 5W40's and the 30 weights indicates that's not a concern in this engine. The blacked out column is an old...

Second run of a 10w30 in this engine, continuing to debunk the fear of 30 weights and thin 40 weights in these engines. Other columns (L to R) are Schaeffer's 5/40, M1 euro 0/40, Schaeffer's 5/40 in my other 617, and T5 10/30.

Rotella T4/5, Valvoline Blue, or Motorcraft (all diesel formulations) 10w30, 15w40 if it burns quite a bit. Those have enough zinc, with more appropriate additives for daily use and cleaning up/keeping the engine clean than "classic" or "racing" oils. Cheaper and, in most places, easier to find...

I'd just give it a steady diet of any of the name-brand high-mileage oils (Valvoline maxlife or max life synthetic would be my choice) in 5w20 or 5w30, changed at about 80% of the OLM's suggestion. No, the OLM can't tell anything about the oil - at best, depending on the car, it keeps track of...

I've worked on about 50 W123 and 115/124/126 diesels and some rust in the filler neck is very common. If the clear filter isn't filling up with any flecks of stuff there's no reason to think it's rusty down in the tank. The lift pumps are extremely durable and the factory spin-on filter is 10...

Pretty much! IMHO 20w50 is excessively thick for these engines now that oil tech is what it is - lots of them ran on it back in the day, but with UOA's like this on 30 and 40 weights, why burden the motor with extra viscosity and heat retention. This is my lowest mileage one - wifey's wagon has...

I have two of the turbo/auto's, and one N/A 4-speed. Always keeping my eye out for a 5-speed to pop up!