Recent content by 71Chevyguy

I still have a few left, might try those and see what happens. Have the typical GM PF47 size and had a few for a VW diesel and it blew oil out of the oil cooler seals on that one. My friend bought a few for his old civic and no issues at all, think it was 3 of them. I guess they were hit or miss.

I didn't have luck with those. Bought several for different cars that I own and they all blew oil out from the mating surface. On a VW that I had it caused it to leak from the oil cooler seal.

It definitely does pull better in mid-range power. Doubt it makes much of a different in quarter mile times, but for daily driving there is a better feel of torque when not downshifting. Overall it was done for reliability and not for performance. The coolant passages were blocked off to...

Just bought an 04 LeSabre a few months ago with 78k miles on it. I did the same as far as getting the intake gaskets done right away. Once I took it apart, I could see that the intake gaskets had blown and it has stop leak in it that did plug the hole. I used the metal intake gaskets, coolant...

I have used Peak 10x in all of my 3800 vehicles and it hasn't given me any issues at all in the past 9 years or so. But it has to be the 10x to not contain the chemical (2-EHA) that causes the problems in the cooling systems. Not saying this is the only option, but I believe this is the only one...

Don't certain versions of it specify 0w40? I have a few quarts of Champion performance Modern Muscle 0w40 that says it was developed for the HEMI specifically. I don't see why euro spec would be a bad choice either.

The car has absolutely no idea what oil you used so there can't be any difference in the oil minder. If it went down quicker than normal, there must have been certain conditions causing that. The oil minder would be exactly the same if you filled it with bargain basement group1 conventional no...

I still have plenty of old oils dating back to the SM rating and my cars don't care. But I wouldn't use it in a new car that requires a newer spec.

I am pretty confident that using the 5w30 will be more help than the brand of oil you use. Although that oil seems to be pretty good from the testing that has been done on it. Looks like it is a very good cleaning oil, so using it from new should keep things spotless in the long run.

I wonder what is in it since it has no ratings at all? Probably good for older cars though since it says it doesn't protect cats, that is usually a good sign. Also 10w30 is a good compromise for older cars since other brand oils are usually very thick for classic cars.

Buying a used car from someone else here is a no brainer. With all of the maintenance our vehicles get from being so picky about oil and intervals, you can't go wrong.

Could be a few things going on, but it will take some digging to find out. As others have suggested, you need to look at the wiring harness by the resistor and HVAC fan. My question would be: Does it come on if you turn up the fan speed manually? I wonder if the fan itself gets stuck when...

If it is going on a beater car, wipe the threads off with a rag that has a couple of drops of clean oil on it. That will probably do a decent job of cleaning them. If it is a nice car, it is a gamble.

I did the cam and lifters on my BRM TDI (PD) Jetta. It was recommended that I use Joe Gibbs driven 15w50 break in oil. I have to say that the break in went well and the cam and lifters looked perfect after that. It has been 20k miles since the install and all is wearing well. The oil is...

I think it depends on how you look at it. If you have an old car that goes through a ton of oil but still runs great, it would be ideal. I don't think I would do it in a newer car. I used to have a Saturn SL2 that went through some oil, like they do. Had I kept it longer, I would probably have...