Long Term 5w-30 use in Honda 1.5t

i now maintain 3 vehicle with the 1.5 T with various miles on them with the highest being 65k. never brought them to the dealer to change oil and always used 5/30 from the first oil change. never have any issues yet. oil in these engines though get dark pretty quick like within 2500 miles . i change every 5k miles .
 
i now maintain 3 vehicle with the 1.5 T with various miles on them with the highest being 65k. never brought them to the dealer to change oil and always used 5/30 from the first oil change. never have any issues yet. oil in these engines though get dark pretty quick like within 2500 miles . i change every 5k miles .
Thanks for the response. I don't know why making the jump is mentally so hard for me, I get all of the benefits but then always go back to "all of those cars that lasted hundreds of thousands of miles on 0w-20". The other concern is cold temps, although the lowest I recall seeing around here the last decade is -8f and technically 5w is rated for lower temps but its still flowing slower at the same temp as a 0w, right? I've used 5w in older cars and never gave it a second thought but those never had a turbo and associated hardware, so the question then is if the turbo is still getting the oil it needs on cold starts to prevent a slow death

Doesn't help that I'm only 1000 miles into a 5k OCI and have a few more months to dwell on this, I should just dump the 0w-20 this week and fill with 5w-30 for the warmer months to try it out. I could settle on a 0w-30 but my understanding is the closer the 2 numbers are together the better generally
 
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Thanks for the response. I don't know why making the jump is mentally so hard for me, I get all of the benefits but then always go back to "all of those cars that lasted hundreds of thousands of miles on 0w-20". The other concern is cold temps, although the lowest I recall seeing around here the last decade is -8f and technically 5w is rated for lower temps but its still flowing slower at the same temp as a 0w, right? I've used 5w in older cars and never gave it a second thought but those never had a turbo and associated hardware, so the question then is if the turbo is still getting the oil it needs on cold starts to prevent a slow death

Doesn't help that I'm only 1000 miles into a 5k OCI and have a few more months to dwell on this, I should just dump the 0w-20 this week and fill with 5w-30 for the warmer months to try it out. I could settle on a 0w-30 but my understanding is the closer the 2 numbers are together the better generally
If you wish to have the somewhat higher HT/HS that a 30-grade brings, why not do it year round? Unless you are starting at somewhere around -35, there is no practical difference between an oil with a 0W winter rating and one with a 5W.

It's not about flow to the turbocharger. If the oil pumps it will flow, and that is represented by the winter rating. What you want for a turbocharger is sufficient MOFT and oxidation and deposit resistance. "Closer the 2 numbers" is pretty irrelevant here, pick an oil with other attributes which contribute to turbocharger longevity and then pick one with a winter rating that is appropriate for your starting temperatures. 0W for -35, 5W above that up to about 0, and 10W above 0.
 
If you wish to have the somewhat higher HT/HS that a 30-grade brings, why not do it year round? Unless you are starting at somewhere around -35, there is no practical difference between an oil with a 0W winter rating and one with a 5W.

It's not about flow to the turbocharger. If the oil pumps it will flow, and that is represented by the winter rating. What you want for a turbocharger is sufficient MOFT and oxidation and deposit resistance. "Closer the 2 numbers" is pretty irrelevant here, pick an oil with other attributes which contribute to turbocharger longevity and then pick one with a winter rating that is appropriate for your starting temperatures. 0W for -35, 5W above that up to about 0, and 10W above 0.

If you wish to have the somewhat higher HT/HS that a 30-grade brings, why not do it year round? Unless you are starting at somewhere around -35, there is no practical difference between an oil with a 0W winter rating and one with a 5W.

It's not about flow to the turbocharger. If the oil pumps it will flow, and that is represented by the winter rating. What you want for a turbocharger is sufficient MOFT and oxidation and deposit resistance. "Closer the 2 numbers" is pretty irrelevant here, pick an oil with other attributes which contribute to turbocharger longevity and then pick one with a winter rating that is appropriate for your starting temperatures. 0W for -35, 5W above that up to about 0, and 10W above 0.
I appreciate the helpful response without any reference to 30 prior posts about this. That closed the numbers are together may be irrelevant, and I understand that this is much more complicated than any broad statement like “numbers closer together” or “thicker is better”. I’d like to have a general understanding about this to make a good decision but I can’t say that I want to become an expert, the main driver here is having a car I really like and wanting to keep it as long as I can so I don’t have to go out by another (and surely a higher) monthly payment, if I can hold off for 15yr/300k miles that would be great, I’d keep it longer if nothing caught my fancy in the 2040 lineup
 
How do the low tension piston rings do with thicker stuff? I read a thicker oil can get left behind on the wall and get burned, but also that a thinner oil can get past the rings if thinned out enough. I can’t imagine that with all of the pressure in the cylinder that the rings would actually be overwhelmed by a slightly thicker film and ride on top of it vs scraping it away
 
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How do the low tension piston rings do with thicker stuff? I read a thicker oil can get left behind on the wall and get burned, but also that a thinner oil can get past the rings if thinned out enough.

Since the mechanism to slide over the oil requires speed and viscosity, and all piston rings drop to 0 speed before changing direction, I think that overrated. The oil would need infinite viscosity to preven the piston rings from sinking in at TDC. mid stroke, the rings are supposed to ride on the oil anyway.
 
been running 5w30 in my '17 6MT hatch for close to 70k miles now. done several UOA along the way. mostly regular gasoline, but did premium for around 7k miles to see if it'll have an effect on oil dilution. it did, but not to the degree that it'd make sense to continued paying the premium for the premium. last 20k miles or so on PPPP5w30, one more jug left. My '16 pilot is also on 5w30 now. hope this helps
How does your Pilot like the 5W30? I’ve been using Amsoil SS 0W20 since new in our 19. Following the olm. 67K on it now. VCM disabled. I thought about going to SS 0W30.
 
Thanks for the response. I don't know why making the jump is mentally so hard for me, I get all of the benefits but then always go back to "all of those cars that lasted hundreds of thousands of miles on 0w-20". The other concern is cold temps, although the lowest I recall seeing around here the last decade is -8f and technically 5w is rated for lower temps but its still flowing slower at the same temp as a 0w, right? I've used 5w in older cars and never gave it a second thought but those never had a turbo and associated hardware, so the question then is if the turbo is still getting the oil it needs on cold starts to prevent a slow death

Doesn't help that I'm only 1000 miles into a 5k OCI and have a few more months to dwell on this, I should just dump the 0w-20 this week and fill with 5w-30 for the warmer months to try it out. I could settle on a 0w-30 but my understanding is the closer the 2 numbers are together the better generally
Why not try it and see if you notice some positive benefits.
I like a 30 for a smoother and quieter engine.
 
Why not try it and see if you notice some positive benefits.
I like a 30 for a smoother and quieter engine.
I might. I stocked up on a bunch of 0w-20 on sale from Walmart but have 90 days to return, however wouldn’t be enough time to hit my desired OCI and get lab results back for the 0w-20. The M1 EP I use is regularly under $6 a quart though, so it won’t break me financially if I return this and pay a few cents more later.
 
I might. I stocked up on a bunch of 0w-20 on sale from Walmart but have 90 days to return, however wouldn’t be enough time to hit my desired OCI and get lab results back for the 0w-20. The M1 EP I use is regularly under $6 a quart though, so it won’t break me financially if I return this and pay a few cents more later.
Costco if you are a member is having a sale on oil till the 5th of may. $30 for two 5 quart jugs. its all i use these days
 
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