2015 Jeep Wrangler 3.6 V6 Low Oil Pressure

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Dec 9, 2023
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About 1,500 miles ago I had my oil cooler/filter assembly replaced with the doorman alum replacement as a preventive step. We often offroad in very remote areas and wanted to avoid a failure out there. Jeep has 50,000 miles on it. Oil was changed with this maint.

3 days ago on a road trip in Mexico my low oil pressure light came on at highway speeds. Stopped, checked the oil, saw no leaks and restarted,,,, light was out. Went thru this cycle 3 times in the 28 miles to our destination couldn't find a fault. No codes in the computer.

Next day drove 80 miles, no errors no lights. Checked the oil, still reading full.

The next day got back on the road for the 180 mile drive home including a 1 hour crawl thru customs. During this trip the light came on twice. On the first occurrence stopped and checked and this time found oil signs around the filter top, and in the valley. Found the top was loose, turned it about a 1/4 turn to snug if. Oil was still full. Second occurrence stoped and checked again, top was still tight. No signs of leakage. Dip stick still registered full.

Planning to get oil changed today with new filter. Trying to figure out are these 2 things, loose cap, low oil pressure light related? Or do I have 2 problems. Very little oil has leaked.

I should mention, when my light comes on, it stays on until I restart the engine. Engine is running great, no performance changes, no noises etc..No error codes.
 
Sounds like a sender issue. Actual low oil pressure at those speeds would almost for sure cause other symptoms.
 
HI All!

Yes it came with sensors. I guess I should have trashed them and replaced with OEM's. Local dealer has both in stock, heading out to go get them.

I probably will dive into this myself and change the sensors. Look for any other leaks while there, however not expecting any as the oil is still full.

Thanks all!
 
This is something that has always baffled me about the job -- people seem to act like it's so cool that Dorman includes the sensors but I've always wondered if I would trust the sensors.

I'm not saying OP did anything wrong...but ANY Dorman electrical part I've ever had has screwed me.
 
Even the OE sensors have a higher than average failure rate on the 3.6 Pentastar. I had the same symptoms on my '14 Mini van, changed the sensor only to have the dreaded assembly leaking failure a year later. I bought an OEM Mopar replacement with sensors and it has been good in the years since. Knock on wood. I kept the original assembly and will just put new O rings in it and reuse if the one in there now starts leaking, I went over it with a fine tooth comb and leak tested it thoroughly, the orings/seals are the only culprit I could come up with.
 
This is something that has always baffled me about the job -- people seem to act like it's so cool that Dorman includes the sensors but I've always wondered if I would trust the sensors.

I'm not saying OP did anything wrong...but ANY Dorman electrical part I've ever had has screwed me.
We had lots of complaints about Dorman parts when I worked in automotive still. Unfortunately often they were the only source. I think they may have occasionally sold OEM parts though.
 
Need to figure out if its an oil pressure issue or sensor issue.

my 2 cents would be on sensor.
 
On transverse 3.6s, I’d think I could sneak the oil pressure sensor out (promasters). The coolant temp sensor may be iffy, as it’s mounted at a bit of an upward angle. On a RWD application I’m unsure as I’ve never worked on one of them. Worth a look before you dive into removing the intakes.

Also, oil pump failures are not uncommon.
 
Dorman. There that says it all. I've seen their 3.6 Aluminum housings come back with oil pressure sending units leaking at the electrical connectors as well as the seals they provide not seal after a few months. Garbage except for the aluminum part.
 
We had lots of complaints about Dorman parts when I worked in automotive still. Unfortunately often they were the only source. I think they may have occasionally sold OEM parts though.
Dorman makes absolutely nothing - its 100% sourced or contract manufactured. So you might get a part from the OEM's original supplier, or you might get a knock off from China. The issue is you never really know.
 
I know the aluminum piece seems like a glorious solution…. but if it was the engineers would have done that a long time ago.
My 2 cents: Put the OE one back in.
Doorman stuff isn’t what it used to be. The oil pressure sensor is mounted down there.

As far as your engine, the tappets would be clicking like mad instantly and you’d throw some CMP codes if it actually dropped pressure. That motor has a 2 stage oil pump, I’ve seen 85+psi testing them.
 
Dorman makes absolutely nothing - its 100% sourced or contract manufactured. So you might get a part from the OEM's original supplier, or you might get a knock off from China. The issue is you never really know.
Yep Dorman seems to buy the rights and remaining stock when an OEM decides to stop supporting a product.

For awhile guys are getting Ford parts with the logo ground off (in the sloppiest possible way, as is the Dorman way) but eventually that stock is exhausted so they start building 'em from scratch....but with some "cost saving improvements"
 
I know the aluminum piece seems like a glorious solution…. but if it was the engineers would have done that a long time ago.
My 2 cents: Put the OE one back in.
Doorman stuff isn’t what it used to be. The oil pressure sensor is mounted down there.

As far as your engine, the tappets would be clicking like mad instantly and you’d throw some CMP codes if it actually dropped pressure. That motor has a 2 stage oil pump, I’ve seen 85+psi testing them.
I tend to disagree. The Aluminum is a solution BUT the plastic cost so much less, and to the engineer for the company and the bottom line, if it last past warranty, they are good, unfortunately.
 
I tend to disagree. The Aluminum is a solution BUT the plastic cost so much less, and to the engineer for the company and the bottom line, if it last past warranty, they are good, unfortunately.
This tends to be my thinking as well. Would be interesting to talk to the original design team and ask if they really thought plastic was the best material for the job, or were they over-ruled or shackled by the bean counters, eg "This WILL be plastic so just start drawing mold prints accordingly."

It's not apples to apples but I heard the same argument about the stupid plastic bleed screw on Duramax fuel filter assy's. It always strips and someone said "the screw has to be plastic, GM/Isuzu designed it that way for a reason!" Nonsense. I put in one of the metal aftermarket replacements (I think it was Gold Plug?) and it's one of the best things I ever did. It literally brings a faint smile to my face every time I service my non-profit's LMM.
 
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