0W20 for new Nissan Sentra?

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As others have said, run the 0w20...
The only negative of running 0w20 is if you do your own oil changes, the choices are a lot more slim.

Other than that, there is no reason not to use the spec'd oil.

Although if I had a jug of 5w30 sitting around that I had no other car to use it in, I would use it.....
 
I think you partially answered your own question. Don't do the "old fashioned" thing, becasue that's old knowledge and oil has come a long way. I have a 2013 Altima and use M1 0W20, and feel very sure of the choice. If you do some reading, you'll see that the current knowledge is divergant from what the old knowldge would have you believe. Thinner is better, it's that simple. BITOG's own oil university teaches that you should, if anything, go a grade thinner for better protection, rather than to go thicker. I had to read and convince myself, but now I'm a believer.
 
Originally Posted By: racin4ds
May even try the ever so popular Toyota stuff...
smile.gif



Threw TGMO 0W-20 in the Odyssey last OC. Until then, I'd been using M1 0W-20. The car has 60k miles and runs like a top for the mostly short runs - School, shopping,... Unbelievable how much quieter the car idles after starting. I hoped I'd notice "some" difference for the better but I am truly amazed

Give it some serious consideration Racin4ds...
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
I like the Valvoline in my sig after trying many oils. No bearing knocking or pison slap unless you get carboned up - then yopu have to give it the Italian Tuneup and all is quite again.
The Idemitsu had been noisy regardless - so I considered that too light in this app and the Edge w/Ti too viscous though it Edgeconsistent and clean running like the Valvoline. The Edge was very, very pricey.


Bearing knocking???
 
Went through both my owners manual last night and the maintenance guides, there isn't any type of temperature vs viscosity chart whatsoever. I did find what kschan pointed out about the OCI intervals, he was 100% correct.. severe schedule is the 3750 and standard is 7500 miles.

Looking at the suggested oils in the OM I found a foot note that read "if 0w20 is not available 5w30 is an acceptable substitute and can be used with no impact on warranty" Thought that was interesting to say the least...
 
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
I like the Valvoline in my sig after trying many oils. No bearing knocking or pison slap unless you get carboned up - then you have to give it the Italian Tuneup and all is quite again.
The Idemitsu had been noisy regardless - so I considered that too light in this app and the Edge w/Ti too viscous though it Edgeconsistent and clean running like the Valvoline. The Edge was very, very pricey.


Bearing knocking???
A Negative deck piston issue when you get carbon on the piston tops. Have you seen a L15 piston? It looks like a Diesel part - deep dish with a high circumfretial ridge and shelf at negative deck. This engine design also has NO exhaust manifold - EX runners are cast in head with a hot #% plug situated between the runner fingers.
 
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Actually water is 0.9 cst at 40C and 0w20 oil is 45 cst so it is not at all like water.
 
Originally Posted By: Lex94
Actually water is 0.9 cst at 40C and 0w20 oil is 45 cst so it is not at all like water.

And a 0W-20 with a kinematic viscosity of typically around 8cSt at 100C is still 9 times heavier than water at 40C.
 
Originally Posted By: Miller88
How much is the TGMO 0w-20?


Miller -I paid about $6/qt.

I'm getting M1 from Walmart for $25/5 qt jug so TGMO is slightly more. Worth every penny so far
 
I have the 2013 Altima and I use pennzoil ultra 0w20 without any issues. I did notice that my owners manual also says that 5w30 coventional can be used if 0w20 is unavailable.
 
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Pennzoil doesn't make an Ultra 0w20...Do you mean Platinum?

You want the oil "to be like water" at cold startup so what's the problem?

I use Mobil 1 0w20 for the low sulfur and phosphorus for better corrosion and emission system performance but Toyota 0w20 should be excellent. According to 540RAT, Mobil 1 0w20 can carry a 96,000 PSI load. Don't know the accuracy of his testing....

http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
 
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Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
I like the Valvoline in my sig after trying many oils. No bearing knocking or pison slap unless you get carboned up - then you have to give it the Italian Tuneup and all is quite again.
The Idemitsu had been noisy regardless - so I considered that too light in this app and the Edge w/Ti too viscous though it Edgeconsistent and clean running like the Valvoline. The Edge was very, very pricey.


Bearing knocking???
A Negative deck piston issue when you get carbon on the piston tops. Have you seen a L15 piston? It looks like a Diesel part - deep dish with a high circumfretial ridge and shelf at negative deck. This engine design also has NO exhaust manifold - EX runners are cast in head with a hot #% plug situated between the runner fingers.

Carbon on the piston tops has nothing to do with either bearing knock or piston slap.
Do your Italian tune up on an engine with knocking bearings and you'll be coming home on the bus.
 
If you're commuting fifty miles mostly highway each way then you absolutely can do 7500 mile OCIs.
As an ASE master, you should know that this type of use is very easy on every part of the car.
You can also register this new car on both the Pennzoil and Quaker State sites, which will then allow you to print $20.00 MIR forms for PP and QSUD.
This will give you your first two 0W-20 oil changes cheap.
Since the OM says that 5W-30 is acceptable, I'd use that grade during warm weather if you happen to have some laying around that you'd like to use up.
I'm not trying to start this week's thick vs thin debate, but millions of Fords and Hondas have shown that a twenty grade oil does not compromise engine durability.
Many manufacturers now recommend twenty grade oils.
 
Yes. 5W-30 will not reach critical parts of the engine as easily as 0W-20 will.
Originally Posted By: racin4ds
The misses and I just traded in our Nissan Versa with the HR16 engine for a 2013 Nissan Sentra with the MR8 engine, looking through the manual last night I noticed the Sentra calls for 0W20 and the Versa called for 5W30... both 2013 engines. Kinda strange I thought...

I really don't like using a 0W20 in anything, call me old fashioned but that stuff is like water! You guys think any harm will come from using 5W30's?
 
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