Questions about different oil in same engines.

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Hi I'm new so please be gentle.
I have a Ford 2.0l PSA DW engine Ford recommend this: Mobil Super 3000 X1 Formula FE 5W-30
But with the same engine in another car V70 2.0D (D4204T - 100kW) the recommend this:
Mobil Super 3000 X1 Formula FE 5W-30 or this: MOBIL 1 ESP 0W-30
But the same engine in this 407 2.0 HDi 16V FAP/DPF Coupe (DW10BTED4 - 103kW) they recommend this: MOBIL 1 ESP FORMULA 5W-30.

I understand the basics of oil and I get Ford want the use the FE to save fuel but what I don't understand is why Peugeot and Citroen both use the Mobil 1 ESP 5W 30.

I want to use the Mobil 1 ESP 5W 30 I don't care about the minuscule amount fuel I will lose I want the engine to run longer as it will be a while until I can afford to buy another car so I want this to live a long and reliable life.
I know the Peugeots and Citroens use this system:

* a post-injection of fuel in the expansion phase, which generates post-combustion in the cylinder and raises the temperature of the gases by 200 °C to 250 °C, to around 350°C to 400 °C.

* additional post-combustion generated by an oxidation catalyser placed upstream of the filter, which treats the unburned hydrocarbons from the post-injection phase. The temperature may increase by a further 100 °C, up to 450°C or 500 °C.

* the fuel additive Eolys fuel additive. This additive lowers the natural particle combustion temperature to 450 °C.

And my Ford doesn't use the Eloys fuel additive but it says: The DPF regeneration can be done both actively and passively.
 
The ESP oil is formulated for the emissions equipment. It has less of some elements that could possible shorten the life of you're emissions equipment.
K. I'd use the 0w-30. Great cold start flow,even though the UK doesn't get super cold I believe the 0w oils are TYPICALLY more advanced than their 5w- counterparts.
As far as oil brand and formulation I guess that's up to you if you choose to not use what the oem specifies. Considering its a diesel and I'm going to venture a guess that the replacement of the emissions equipment is very expensive,so you probably want to extend its life as long as possible.
Diesel engines TYPICALLY run forever so I really don't believe you will be shortening the vehicles useable lifespan.
Most cars at the auto wrecker run great,its TYPICALLY not an engine failure than sends them to heaven,so just use what they tell ya.
 
Supertech dino and extend out to 15k!
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: TrevorS
Supertech dino and extend out to 15k!
wink.gif



Great advice. Why even answer him? You know its the guys first post and he may not you're vast knowledge of lubricants to know that you're not serious.

I don't get it. Why do people put in the effort to answer a persons question just to not actually answer it.
Why not just move on and possibly ???HELP??? Someone else. Isn't that why we are here,to learn,to help our fellow members,or is that not your reason for visiting? I have to assume you're getting something from commenting otherwise you wouldn't keep returning under different pseudonyms.
You could have just stayed banned and still had access and could read the posts,just not answer,so something keeps drawing you back so it has to be posting. But what I see from you typically resembles this recent post,so apparently its not helping people either.
So you understand my confusion,I assume.
You don't need to answer,I'm not sure that I even care.

Op. I apologize for busting in on you're thread. I'm confident you will get many members who are in similar situations that will be more than happy to actually help you.

Good luck and welcome.
 
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I thought you had me on ignore?

Oh don't tell me, someone alerted you to my post in the wee hours.

You know that you don't get Supertech in the UK don't you?
 
Clevy thank you so much for a detailed and well thought out answer which helps considerably, I've looked over here and only the ESP 5W 30 is commonly available so I'll go with that one.
Your right about expensive parts for emmisions the DPF is very expensive not just the buying and fitting but the reprogramming of the ECU to tell it that it has a new one fitted, that was a reason I was going for the ESP for the lower ash content, I'm lucky with the engine in that it doesn't use any oil that I can measure (it always stays at the top of the dipstick) so not a lot going into the exhaust hopefully :)
I did buy some Archoil AR9100 advanced friction modifier and put it in, I was amazed that in the reviews I read they all said it made it sound quieter yet when I put it into mine it didn't make any difference at all and I used a decibel meter to be sure as my ears are shot with tinnitus and I've also not noticed any improvement in MPG at all and I brim the tank so as to be sure of as accurate figures as possible. Also I can't find anything about Archoil on here which is a bit worrying to me and makes me wonder if I should drain it and flush it out? Is it a snake oil or is there actually something good within it?
This site is amazing too much to take in in the few days I've been reading and enjoying it, you put some time in and do some great posts I have to say.

Thanks again :)
 
Kimandsally

An answer from a UK poster.

Basically agreeing with Clevey.

The Mobil1 Super is a good quality 5W/30 oil but is not for cars with the very latest emission equipment nor for over 12k miles a year oil change intervals.

The Mobil1 ESP covers the more stringent oil spec for cars with the latest emission equipment and also has the extra additive package for long drain intervals that is say 20k miles and 18 months 2 years.

Ford in the UK up to now have not moved to extended drain intervals therefore spec an oil without those additives.

If you live near Braemar in North West Aberdeenshire you will from time to time get low temps -28C or -18F but that is quite unusual in the UK.

eddie
 
Originally Posted By: kimandsally
Clevy thank you so much for a detailed and well thought out answer which helps considerably, I've looked over here and only the ESP 5W 30 is commonly available so I'll go with that one.
Your right about expensive parts for emmisions the DPF is very expensive not just the buying and fitting but the reprogramming of the ECU to tell it that it has a new one fitted, that was a reason I was going for the ESP for the lower ash content, I'm lucky with the engine in that it doesn't use any oil that I can measure (it always stays at the top of the dipstick) so not a lot going into the exhaust hopefully :)
I did buy some Archoil AR9100 advanced friction modifier and put it in, I was amazed that in the reviews I read they all said it made it sound quieter yet when I put it into mine it didn't make any difference at all and I used a decibel meter to be sure as my ears are shot with tinnitus and I've also not noticed any improvement in MPG at all and I brim the tank so as to be sure of as accurate figures as possible. Also I can't find anything about Archoil on here which is a bit worrying to me and makes me wonder if I should drain it and flush it out? Is it a snake oil or is there actually something good within it?
This site is amazing too much to take in in the few days I've been reading and enjoying it, you put some time in and do some great posts I have to say.

Thanks again :)


No problem.
If you can find liqui-moly/lubro-moly products I suggest buying a can of cera-tec and MOS2.
The mos2 will save you fuel. Look up my name and look at my posts. I've written so much about the stuff I'm tired but search and read what i wrote.
I suggest the ceratec first and an extended interval so the product can coat the points of contact,then add mos2.
Ceratec leaves behind a layer so hard you need a grinder to take it off,and it lasts 30000 miles,and mos2 is a friction modifier that has never,ever failed to raise my mileage at least 2mpg. My charger has gained almost 4 mpg. And the ceratec is a wear eliminator,because the metal never touches because of that rock hard layer left behind.

No it doesn't clog oil filter,no it won't cause sludge. That's all you need to know. Go to the website for the details on each product.
 
Thank you Eddie Cairns and Clevy I'm learning a lot more than I thought in a little time, Clevey I will definitely follow your advice regarding Ceratec and Mos2. But for now is the Archoil 9100 doing any harm as I don't notice any improvement from it, maybe the Mobil ESP is so good with it's own additive package that the Archoil 9100 can't improve on it? I bought it because a friend said it was fantastic and he got 4mpg more!!! Has anyone on here found it to be useful because when I put Archoil in the search box no subjects come up.

Thanks again, I'm megga impressed how helpful you people are makes a change from some forums that I'll not mention.
 
Originally Posted By: kimandsally
Thank you Eddie Cairns and Clevy I'm learning a lot more than I thought in a little time, Clevey I will definitely follow your advice regarding Ceratec and Mos2. But for now is the Archoil 9100 doing any harm as I don't notice any improvement from it, maybe the Mobil ESP is so good with it's own additive package that the Archoil 9100 can't improve on it? I bought it because a friend said it was fantastic and he got 4mpg more!!! Has anyone on here found it to be useful because when I put Archoil in the search box no subjects come up.

Thanks again, I'm megga impressed how helpful you people are makes a change from some forums that I'll not mention.


Oil additives are looked down upon for the very reason you are describing,because they don't do anything. But not all additives fall into the "snake oil" category. Liqui-moly is once,lube-guard is good too from what I hear from people I trust.
Anyways I doubt its doing any harm. Run the interval out but shorten it a bit due to thinning out the oils additive package because of adding the archoil
 
Originally Posted By: EddieCairns
Kimandsally

If you live near Braemar in North West Aberdeenshire you will from time to time get low temps -28C or -18F but that is quite unusual in the UK.

eddie


Mother and Father in Law live at Melvich we were at Strathy here.



On the 30th December 1995 when it was minus 27.2c coldest on record our car a Ford Sierra Diesel broke down with Esso winter Diesel it went to jelly, not good we were on a single track road at 1 AM and had to leave it there till the next day then reverse back to it over 3/4 mile to tow it back to the in laws, took me ages to get the jelly out.
Not been up there for years now as both mine and the wifes health is not good enough to get there, (we could but it would take 3 days each way)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Originally Posted By: kimandsally
Originally Posted By: EddieCairns
Kimandsally

If you live near Braemar in North West Aberdeenshire you will from time to time get low temps -28C or -18F but that is quite unusual in the UK.

eddie


Mother and Father in Law live at Melvich we were at Strathy here:



On the 30th December 1995 when it was minus 27.2c coldest on record our car a Ford Sierra Diesel broke down with Esso winter Diesel it went to jelly, not good we were on a single track road at 1 AM and had to leave it there till the next day then reverse back to it over 3/4 mile to tow it back to the in laws, took me ages to get the jelly out.
Not been up there for years now as both mine and the wifes health is not good enough to get there, (we could but it would take 3 days each way)


The furthest I went north was Skye during the summer, so I haven't been that far. But the coldest I've ever seen in Aberdeen during one of my visits was -15°C, and Jesus [censored] did that feel colder than it actually was!
 
It's the dampness and cold wind in NE Scotland that is the killer. We have been skiing in the Alps and come back to Aberdeenshire where the temperature is higher but it feels colder due to the damp. It's called "dreich weather" in Aberdeenshire.

eddie
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
The ESP oil is formulated for the emissions equipment. It has less of some elements that could possible shorten the life of you're emissions equipment.
I believe the 0w oils are TYPICALLY more advanced than their 5w- counterparts.


Do the 0w oils have better formulation for the emissions equipment vs the 5w20 motor oils? I have a 2013 Mazda 3 with 2.0L motor and Mazda recommends 0w20 whereas the recommended oil for my previous (2009) Mazda 3 with the same motor was 5w20. I was thinking about using some 5w20 Valvoline Synpower which is on sale at the local Walmart. However, if its formulation is not as good for protecting the emissions equipment I will not use it.
 
Originally Posted By: Spudislander
Originally Posted By: Clevy
The ESP oil is formulated for the emissions equipment. It has less of some elements that could possible shorten the life of you're emissions equipment.
I believe the 0w oils are TYPICALLY more advanced than their 5w- counterparts.


Do the 0w oils have better formulation for the emissions equipment vs the 5w20 motor oils? I have a 2013 Mazda 3 with 2.0L motor and Mazda recommends 0w20 whereas the recommended oil for my previous (2009) Mazda 3 with the same motor was 5w20. I was thinking about using some 5w20 Valvoline Synpower which is on sale at the local Walmart. However, if its formulation is not as good for protecting the emissions equipment I will not use it.


Sorry, just realized that I was reading under the Diesel section of the forum. I assume this does not apply the same to gasoline engines.
 
Originally Posted By: kimandsally
Hi I'm new so please be gentle.
I have a Ford 2.0l PSA DW engine Ford recommend this: Mobil Super 3000 X1 Formula FE 5W-30
But with the same engine in another car V70 2.0D (D4204T - 100kW) the recommend this:
Mobil Super 3000 X1 Formula FE 5W-30 or this: MOBIL 1 ESP 0W-30
But the same engine in this 407 2.0 HDi 16V FAP/DPF Coupe (DW10BTED4 - 103kW) they recommend this: MOBIL 1 ESP FORMULA 5W-30.

I understand the basics of oil and I get Ford want the use the FE to save fuel but what I don't understand is why Peugeot and Citroen both use the Mobil 1 ESP 5W 30.

I want to use the Mobil 1 ESP 5W 30 I don't care about the minuscule amount fuel I will lose I want the engine to run longer as it will be a while until I can afford to buy another car so I want this to live a long and reliable life.
I know the Peugeots and Citroens use this system:

* a post-injection of fuel in the expansion phase, which generates post-combustion in the cylinder and raises the temperature of the gases by 200 °C to 250 °C, to around 350°C to 400 °C.

* additional post-combustion generated by an oxidation catalyser placed upstream of the filter, which treats the unburned hydrocarbons from the post-injection phase. The temperature may increase by a further 100 °C, up to 450°C or 500 °C.

* the fuel additive Eolys fuel additive. This additive lowers the natural particle combustion temperature to 450 °C.

And my Ford doesn't use the Eloys fuel additive but it says: The DPF regeneration can be done both actively and passively.


Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 is for the cars have DPF and that's why it is recommended for your Citroen and Peugeot. However, this oil does not certify Ford 913-C.

For your Ford, either Mobil 1 0W-30 Fuel economy or Mobil Super 3000 X1 Formula FE 5W-30 will be a good choice as they certify Ford 913-C.
 
Originally Posted By: Spudislander
Originally Posted By: Spudislander
Originally Posted By: Clevy
The ESP oil is formulated for the emissions equipment. It has less of some elements that could possible shorten the life of you're emissions equipment.
I believe the 0w oils are TYPICALLY more advanced than their 5w- counterparts.


Do the 0w oils have better formulation for the emissions equipment vs the 5w20 motor oils? I have a 2013 Mazda 3 with 2.0L motor and Mazda recommends 0w20 whereas the recommended oil for my previous (2009) Mazda 3 with the same motor was 5w20. I was thinking about using some 5w20 Valvoline Synpower which is on sale at the local Walmart. However, if its formulation is not as good for protecting the emissions equipment I will not use it.


Sorry, just realized that I was reading under the Diesel section of the forum. I assume this does not apply the same to gasoline engines.


Right your gas car does not have a DPF that is sensitive to ash deposits.
 
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