Hi everybody, I am new to these forums and sure glad I found them. I am in need of some help deciding on an oil for my new car (new to me at least). It is a 2001 BMW 325i. It has 109,000 miles on it (mostly highway obviously). The previous owner said that he had been running Castrol Syntec at 7000 mile OCIs. As soon as I got the car home I did an oil change with Mobil 1 as it was the only synthetic available to me. I did notice that there was quite a bit of buildup on the oil filler cap and also the little bit of the deflector that I can see when I look into the engine. I know that BMW recomends Castrol for their engines so my first question is do you think that changing from castrol to mobil with that many miles on it will hurt anything? My next question is I would like to get a good oil in the car and stick with it. I have been running Amsoil 0w-30 in my chevy pickup and it seems to be doing fine in it, but when I tried to run it in my girlfriends Dodge Avenger the lifters started to tick really bad. I have heard alot of good things about this oil and already have a case of it on hand. I would really like some opinions on a good oil to run in this car. Let me know your opinions. Thanks
What type of oil for BMW 325i?
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From the Amsoil site:
2001 BMW 325i 2.5L 6-cyl Engine Code M56
Engine Oil
Grade 1......SM[1]
Series 2000 Synthetic 0W-30 Motor Oil
SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil
SAE 5W-30 XL Synthetic Motor Oil
All Temps......5W-30[2]
1. To prevent potential engine damage, use only BMW
High Performance Synthetic Oil part No 07 51 0 017 866 or
equivalent. Refer to engine compartment oil change decal.
2. To prevent potential engine damage, use only BMW
High Performance Synthetic Oil part No 07 51 0 017 866 or
equivalent. Refer to engine compartment oil change decal.
Since the Amsoil 0W30 is recommended for this car, go ahead and see how you like it.
I don't think the Mobil 1 would hurt anything, but make sure it is recommended for your car.
The 0W30 also seems to be recommended for your girlfriends car, and not sure why it would cause the lifters to tick really bad. Go back to what she was using before and hopefully the problem will go away. Some cars prefer certain oils.
2001 BMW 325i 2.5L 6-cyl Engine Code M56
Engine Oil
Grade 1......SM[1]
Series 2000 Synthetic 0W-30 Motor Oil
SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil
SAE 5W-30 XL Synthetic Motor Oil
All Temps......5W-30[2]
1. To prevent potential engine damage, use only BMW
High Performance Synthetic Oil part No 07 51 0 017 866 or
equivalent. Refer to engine compartment oil change decal.
2. To prevent potential engine damage, use only BMW
High Performance Synthetic Oil part No 07 51 0 017 866 or
equivalent. Refer to engine compartment oil change decal.
Since the Amsoil 0W30 is recommended for this car, go ahead and see how you like it.
I don't think the Mobil 1 would hurt anything, but make sure it is recommended for your car.
The 0W30 also seems to be recommended for your girlfriends car, and not sure why it would cause the lifters to tick really bad. Go back to what she was using before and hopefully the problem will go away. Some cars prefer certain oils.
I know. I am pretty confused about what oil to use because I have heard everything from "using a dino at 3000 OCIs is ok", to "never use anything except factory fill oil". I am just hoping by putting the Mobil 1 5w-30 in there I am not hurting anything. I have a pretty limited selection of oil where I live. The biggest selection is at the wal-mart 60 miles away.
Mobil 1 5W30 meets ACEA A1/B1. Their website selects Mobil 1 0W40 which meets ACEA A3, B3/B4 and BMW Longlife 01 for your BMW. This would be the Mobil 1 product I would use.
Amsoil evaluates all of its oils for specific applications and selects the ones they will warranty for the application. The Amsoil 0W30 meets ACEA A5/B5. If you think this is an incorrect choice, then call them at Technical Support:
(715) 399-TECH. Or email them at http://www.amsoil.com/techservices.aspx . I have found one misapplication in the past, which they corrected.
Amsoil evaluates all of its oils for specific applications and selects the ones they will warranty for the application. The Amsoil 0W30 meets ACEA A5/B5. If you think this is an incorrect choice, then call them at Technical Support:
(715) 399-TECH. Or email them at http://www.amsoil.com/techservices.aspx . I have found one misapplication in the past, which they corrected.
http://www.amsoil.com/techservices.aspx . I would ask the oil companies and BMW if an oil were compatible for use in a specific vehicle if it is not clear.
I recommend following the BMW LL-01 engine oil specification which specifies the following:
0W/5W-30/40 viscosity
HTHS viscosity over 3.5
Oil change interval 30000 km or 2 yrs
ACEA level A3/B3/B4
Chemical synthetic oil.
I personally would not use that oil change interval, but that's part of the LL-01 spec.
Do a search with BMW LL-01 spec. and you will find a least one list where someone has written the oils that meet that spec. My personal favorite is Castrol Syntec 0W-30 (aka German Castrol). It has its own chapter on this website. Alas, it appears the exclusive distributor, Autozone, will no longer be carrying it.
Mobil0W-40 meets the spec, many BMW owners use it. Valvoline Synpower 5W-40 meets the spec. And, don't forget BMW synthetic 5W-30 (a different Castrol oil than 0W-30), but well respected also. You may actually find it to be cheaper. You implied you do your own oil changes. I do also. Oil changes on BMWs are about the easiest I've found. I also mail order Mann filters for about $5--much cheaper than the dealer. Since most of my miles are city, I do an oil change twice yearly even though my mileage is relatively low (10000 miles/year). Many will say that's overkill.
Anyway, congratulations on your BMW.
0W/5W-30/40 viscosity
HTHS viscosity over 3.5
Oil change interval 30000 km or 2 yrs
ACEA level A3/B3/B4
Chemical synthetic oil.
I personally would not use that oil change interval, but that's part of the LL-01 spec.
Do a search with BMW LL-01 spec. and you will find a least one list where someone has written the oils that meet that spec. My personal favorite is Castrol Syntec 0W-30 (aka German Castrol). It has its own chapter on this website. Alas, it appears the exclusive distributor, Autozone, will no longer be carrying it.
Mobil0W-40 meets the spec, many BMW owners use it. Valvoline Synpower 5W-40 meets the spec. And, don't forget BMW synthetic 5W-30 (a different Castrol oil than 0W-30), but well respected also. You may actually find it to be cheaper. You implied you do your own oil changes. I do also. Oil changes on BMWs are about the easiest I've found. I also mail order Mann filters for about $5--much cheaper than the dealer. Since most of my miles are city, I do an oil change twice yearly even though my mileage is relatively low (10000 miles/year). Many will say that's overkill.
Anyway, congratulations on your BMW.
Same thing in my mother's 99' 328i. It's a beotch to avoid and worse to get rid of once it's there. Vapors of oil/gas/water build up there and then the stuff hardens.
BMW 5W-30 oil
Castrol Syntec 0W-30 must say 'Made in Germany'
Castrol Syntec 5W-40
Mobil 1 0W-40
Valvoline Synpower 5W-40
-----------------
Not approved but I think it is excellent: Redline 5W-30 or 5W-40
Castrol Syntec 0W-30 must say 'Made in Germany'
Castrol Syntec 5W-40
Mobil 1 0W-40
Valvoline Synpower 5W-40
-----------------
Not approved but I think it is excellent: Redline 5W-30 or 5W-40
srl1104:
I have run M1 0W40 with an excellent UOA in my 1998 M52. I now, however, prefer Castrol Syntec 0W30 (GC) for numerous reasons. The M1 0W40 sheared badly on a low stress, 3500mi winter UOA and my M52 is definitely noisier with M1 products.
I would NOT run BMW synthetic 5W30 due to cleanliness issues (varnish and staining). There are many excellent UOAs in the UOA forum for this oil, however, so it does protect well.
Oh yes, I wouldn't run any longer than half of the interval the OLM tells you if you plan on keeping the car for any length of time. The exception to this would be if you put on a LOT of highway miles in a short amount of time and extract a sample for UOA to confirm that you're still OK.
Craig.
I have run M1 0W40 with an excellent UOA in my 1998 M52. I now, however, prefer Castrol Syntec 0W30 (GC) for numerous reasons. The M1 0W40 sheared badly on a low stress, 3500mi winter UOA and my M52 is definitely noisier with M1 products.
I would NOT run BMW synthetic 5W30 due to cleanliness issues (varnish and staining). There are many excellent UOAs in the UOA forum for this oil, however, so it does protect well.
Oh yes, I wouldn't run any longer than half of the interval the OLM tells you if you plan on keeping the car for any length of time. The exception to this would be if you put on a LOT of highway miles in a short amount of time and extract a sample for UOA to confirm that you're still OK.
Craig.
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You might want to run Auto-RX through this engine this summer.
You have probably read the procedure:
-Add a bottle of Auto-RX to your existing oil 1500 miles before your next oil change.
-Run a 'conventional' oil * for 2000 miles, perhaps even changing you oil filter after 500 miles [in case it get filled with junk that ARX is cleaning from your engine ]
Go back to your BMW LL-01 approved synthetic oil of choice.
---====---
* I don't know which conventional oil would be best for the Auto-RX 'rinse' phase. I would think a 10W-40, 15W-40, or 20W-50 would be best.
I'd probably use Shell Rotella 15W-40, or Castrol GTX 20W-50 since they are easy to find and thick enough to provide some of the protection that a BMW LL-01 oil would provide.
You could only do this in the summer in Wyoming, since the oils would be a bit thick at start up in the cold.
---====---
Auto-RX is a good way to clean an engine, and it may help keep the VANOS system and timing chains in good shape in your 325 motor.
I bought a '95 325ic with 150K miles and immediatelt changed oil and ran a 'clean and rinse' with Auto-Rx.
Then I switched to Castrol Syntec 0W-30 [ German Castrol ]
at 7K intervals. Engine ran much better after a little cleaning with Auto-RX and some Redline SI-1 fuel injector cleaner.
The German Castrol Syntec 0W-30 is getting harder to find.
I might be able to find some more in Denver if you wanted me to ship some up to you.
Otherwise, Mobil 1 0W-40 is BMW LL-01 approved and it seems to work well in our AMG Mercedes motors..despite all the 'shearing down and thickening up' criticisms. It will work and it is approved.
Plus a 0W-30 or 40 weight oil is probably a good thing for the cold mornings in Wyoming.
BTW, I think Amsoil 0W-30 seems just a bit thin. The Amsoil site lists 0W-30 for your car, but I think I'd run the Amsoil European Formula 5W-40 since I think the oil should have BMW LL-01 approval, or at least an ACEA A-3 rating or minumum HTHS as required by the ACEA A-3 rating, which means at the very minimum an HTHS rating of 3.5 or higher.
Non-approved oils like Amsoil and Redline have the following HTHS numbers:
Amsoil 0W-30 HTHS = 3.2 [or 3.3 on some charts ]
Amsoil 5W-40 Euro HTHS = 3.7
Redline 5W-30 HTHS - 3.8
---====---
Here's the list of BMW approved oils:
LL01 for all engines, except:
M43/CNG, S54, S62/E39 (till 02/2000)
BMW Quality Longlife-01 0W-40
BMW Quality Longlife-01 5W-30
Agip Formula LL B 01 0W-30
BP Visco 7000 0W-40
BP Visco 7000 Special 0W-30
Castrol Formula SLX 0W-30
Castrol Syntec 0W-30
Castrol Super Racing 0W-40
Castrol TXT Softec LL01 5W-30
Havoline Synthetic BM 0W-30
Mobil 1 0W-40
Motul Specific LL-01 0W-30
LL98 for all engines except:
M43/CNG, M54 (from 09/2001), N40, N42, S54, N62, N73, S62/E39 (till 02/2000)
BMW Super Power Plus 5W-30 is substituted by
BMW Quality longlife-01 5W-30
BMW Super Power Oil 5W-40
76 Pure Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-40
Castrol Formula RS Power and Protection 0W-40
Castrol Formula RS Road and Track 5W-40
Castrol GTX7 Dynatec 5W-40
Castrol Performance 5W-40
Castrol Syntec 5W-40
Castrol TXT Softec 5W-40
Castrol Softec LL98 5W-30
Castrol Softec Plus 5W-30
Chevron Supreme Synthetic 5W-40
Mobil1 5W-40
Mobil1 Rally Formula 5W-30 and 5W-40
Mobil1 Turbo Diesel 0W-40
Mobil Super S 5W-40
Mobil Synt S 5W-40
Quaker State Full Synthetic European Formula 5W-40
Valvoline Durablend MXL 5W-40
Valvoline SynPower 5W-30 and 5W-40
Valvoline SynPower MXL 0W-30
Valvoline SynPro 5W-30 and 5W-40
Running 0w-30 GC in BMW 528iT in Houston. Have run Delo 15w -40 for Auto Rx clean & rinse cycles. Will run Mobil 1 Delvac/Truck SUV 5w-40 when supply of GC is exhausted.
I agree that it would be a good idea to run an ARX cycle on this car. I wonder if I could get away using some sort of a group 3 synthetic. It would definalty ease my mind a little and may allow me to run a slightly lighter oil than 15w-40 and still get a good amount of protection while also maintaining good milage.
You didn't say which Mobil 1 oil you used , did you? Hopefully it was 0W-40.
If you used Mobil 1 5W-30 you might want to drive easier and change sooner.
Add the ARX 1500 miles before you plan to change the oil.
If you want a Group III then how about Valvoline Synpower 5W-40. That is probably Group III with all approvals needed.
Just seems a shame to run so many quarts of high dollar synthetic for only 2000 miles. I think that you'd be safe with Delo 15W-40 or Shell Rotella 15W-40 for 2000 miles during warm weather.
I think that the oil for you car should be synthetic with a 100 C cST of 12.2 or higher and an HTHS of 3.5 to 4.
But these engines usually run so well for so long with a little care that I think an LL-01 synthetic every 7000 miles is a good maintenance program.
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Unless you know the person you bought it from, I'd also recommend an ARX cycle. I doubt that you'll get much visible contamination out this engine (ie. your filter won't load up with junk) but you may noticed improved smoothness, efficiency and power. Since it's over 100k, the "book" suggests two treatments.
For maximum effectiveness, I would recommend running clean and rinse cycles on dino oil, although the instruction do state that clean phases can be on any oil including synthetic. I timed my ARX cycle with warm summer weather and used dino throughout. In my case I used a stout 15W40 HDEO for extra detergents and dispersants.
I wouldn't get caught up in "BMWs need thick oils", the 2001 325 isn't an "old" BMW and the double VANOS system expects a certain viscosity range. If the engine's been well taken care of with regular OCIs then it will still be tight. I would stay away from a permanent (post ARX) oil choise any heavier than 5w40. When I had 15W40 in there for ARX the engine was noticeably "held back" and suffered in the MPG department a little.
This is all just my two cents, of course...
Craig.
For maximum effectiveness, I would recommend running clean and rinse cycles on dino oil, although the instruction do state that clean phases can be on any oil including synthetic. I timed my ARX cycle with warm summer weather and used dino throughout. In my case I used a stout 15W40 HDEO for extra detergents and dispersants.
I wouldn't get caught up in "BMWs need thick oils", the 2001 325 isn't an "old" BMW and the double VANOS system expects a certain viscosity range. If the engine's been well taken care of with regular OCIs then it will still be tight. I would stay away from a permanent (post ARX) oil choise any heavier than 5w40. When I had 15W40 in there for ARX the engine was noticeably "held back" and suffered in the MPG department a little.
This is all just my two cents, of course...
Craig.
I used Mobil 5W-30 because it was all I could get where I live. Its only after I changed it did I find out that this was not an acceptable oil for my car. I have been running it anyway and things seem to be doing fine (good milage, no noticeable noise etc.) I figured that I would just go ahead and run it for a couple thousand miles and then drain it out and go with something that has the LL-01 approval. So hopefully I am not hurting anything by doing this.
I doubt you will cause any problem...if you drive moderately.
If I were in your shoes I go out to the garage and add a full bottle of Valvoline Synthetic Oil Treatment to thicken the 5W-30.
NAPOA can order VSOT under part # 066.
You can read about VSOT in the additives secion here.
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