What oil temp is needed to remove moisture?

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It sounds to me like I have nothing to worry about then, since my drive to work is 45-60min and my drive home is the same. And I never use the car for short trips, anytime I start it I drive it at least 20-30 miles.
 
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Originally posted by Brett Miller:
You worry too much. Just drive the car and enjoy it.

I definitely am enjoying it, I've put almost 1700 miles on it in three weeks.
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I do worry a lot though, and I'm sure needlessly so. This engine will probably last me to 250k and beyond. Especially since it seems to be a very good one, it does not exhibit any piston slap, and so far it has not used any oil either. Those are two common LS1 traits, so it's nice that mine doesn't suffer from it! And I had it dyno tuned last week so it's no longer running rich like most LS1s do. So by having a better air/fuel mixture it should not build up any carbon either (especially since I'm running Fuel Power in it, and nothing but Sunoco 94)
 
Someone like me is probably screwed then. Im runnign Delo in my Jeep. I drive my car 4 days a week. 15 mins to get to band (its on the other side of campus) if I drive. Engine does warm up. But its like a 1 mile drive. Just lots and lots of traffic
 
I tend to agree with the thought that it's really not about temp, and all about time, any engine will reach normal operating temperature quite quickly, and generally even if the oil "seems" cool, it is constantly moving over surfaces that are "very" hot, so that contact is surely bound to help drive the moisture out of the oil given time, regardless of actual peak oil temps.

Time has to be the key though, I worry at times because my cars often only gets very short trips for months at a time, and I know that's bad, the engine and the oil really needs those 30-60min+ runs to really get the oil and breather system into that important self cleaning phase.

The breather system and oil traps on cars that have seen nothing but short trips is chronic, on a few cars I have owned it's one of the first things that have needed replacing.
 
And the good thing to remember, Patman, is that you've got yourself a classic ride where it would be WORTH IT to rebuild the engine at some point
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Keep us posted on what your oil temps are doing as the weather turns to cold Patman. I'm interested in seeing if your oil temps in winter are going to run about the same as your oil temps in summer (assuming a long enough run to get the temp up that is).

Lukey
 
quote:

Originally posted by Matt89:
And the good thing to remember, Patman, is that you've got yourself a classic ride where it would be WORTH IT to rebuild the engine at some point
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Sometimes I wonder if I should let the engine die sooner so that I could justify (to the wife!) spending $$$ on an even more powerful one!
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FWIW, here is what my 05 Camry owners manual has to say about moisture in oil...

"...oil may become diluted and make it difficult to judge the true level accurately...if a vehicle is used for repeated short trips, and consumes a normal amount of oil, the dip stick may not show any drop in the oil level at all, even after 1000 km or more. This is because the oil is gradually becoming diluted with fuel or moisture, making it appear that the oil level has not changed. The diluting ingredients evaporate out when the vehicle is then driven at high speeds, as on an expressway, making it appear that the oil is excessively consumed after driving at high speeds."

Interesting.
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quote:

pan temp would give an average temp of all the oil, but the tiny bit of oil that just dropped in from a bearing or the underside of a piston is way way way above boiling. If every drop of oil gets a shot in the bearings every few minutes, it does not take long to boil off the water

Maybe ...after the bearings, that start out at the same temp as the oil, reach a temp that allows the water to reach a state that it can vaporize ..keeping in mind that the same "warming up" bearing surfaces are being cooled by that "average temp" oil supply.

Still, many that DO actually have oil temp senders rarely see pan temps much outside the 200* range even in the heat of summer. When they do ..the engine is most assuredly fully warmed up.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Patman:
I know that in theory they say that you need to reach 212F (100C) in order for water to boil, but does that mean my oil temperature must reach 212F in order to fully burn off the moisture?

FWIW, my normal oil temps are around 180-185F, and they just barely get there by the time I'm done with my 12 mile commute to work and then back. I do a bunch of shorter trips as well. My last UOA did not show any moisture present. I did have 1% fuel though.
 
quote:

Originally posted by sifan:
Install an oil bypass filter which will filter out the water in the oil.

Wouldn't it be better to let it steam off and out of the engine rather than holding the water in a filter and running the oil through it?
 
At least in coolant systems, if I recall, for every pound of pressure (PSI) the boiling point of water increases by 4 degrees.

Boiling point of H2O = 212*F + 4*F (x)

The variable x represents the system's PSI.

I think it's 4 degrees, but you all might want to check.

I wonder if the water in the oil reacts the same way under pressure???
 
In the days of Vizard max engine power would say be produced at 175f, however oil temp should be 195f, so the water thermostat is usually set at 190f reducing power but maximising oil benefits.
For a fully synth perhaps 195f to 260f being range to aim for, and for others 195f to 230f

Oil thermostats usually open at 175f, so a good run at normal operating temp should solve water/oil problem.

However per Castrol start up AW additives do not kick in until 160f unless a polorised ester is being used. So should esters be the key as well as avoiding short journeys?
 
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