Anti Seize vs. Anti Squeal......

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Anti seize is not a good lubricant or anti squeal sauce. It simply can inhibit galling, corrosion, and self welding of parts together.
Use dedicated anti squeal sauce on the pads, and brake grease [or high temp wheel bearing grease] on any moving part.
 
i awalys use antiseize on brake jobs. i use it on any sliding or moving part. but i dont ever put anything on the pads, backings, pistons, etc. i knoe some people like to use anti squealing compounds in these areas, but i find that if you do a brake job properly and use a good street pad you wont get any brake noise.
 
Help--I put some Bendix pads on my wife's 2003 Town & Country and they squeal and Momma ain't happy. Is there anything I can do to stop it, short of buying new pads??? Are there specific pads that don't squeal??
 
I use Dow Corning 111 silicone grease on the calliper slide pins. For the back side of the pads I use CRC Disc Brake Quiet. I store the disc brake quiet in the kitchen refrigerator to maintain maximum viscosity.
 
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Help--I put some Bendix pads on my wife's 2003 Town & Country and they squeal and Momma ain't happy. Is there anything I can do to stop it, short of buying new pads??? Are there specific pads that don't squeal??



Did you resurface or replace the rotors?

Did you clean and lubricate the pad abutment points on the caliper mounting bracket?

Did you apply a thin coat of synthetic caliper grease to the area that the pad shim contacts the caliper?

What pad burnishing method did you perform, if any? Bendix recommends doing thirty stops, from thirty miles per hour, with a thirty second cooldown in between stop immediately after the brake job.

If you have done everything that I've listed and you still experience noise, google for Stoptech's pad bed-in instructions. It is a more aggressive form of pad burnishing that should resolve many noise complaints.
 
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I've used Anti Seize on my brake pad jobs with no issues yet...

Just curious what you guys use.



Never anti-seize. Synthetic caliper grease on the slide pins and pad abutment points.

Synthetic caliper grease or Molykote77 on the pad shim. DISC BRAKE QUIET (orange, tacky stuff) if the pad does NOT have a shim, if and only if, the pad does not contain a shim.
 
Seems like 10 or more years ago, the little packets of goo that came with brake pads was very silvery and appeared to be anti-seize. It was even mentioned in repair manuals.

I think VERY thin layers on metal to metal sliding components will probably work. Maybe not the best lubricant, but it will keep parts from bonding together. BUT, beware that it is a petroleum based product and could ruin rubber brake components if it touches them.

In fact, I think that is why it has fallen out of favor as a brake product. Lawyers and garage gorillas that slathered it all over brake components probably resulted in court room three ring circus.

I have two products from GRW (or GWR) auto: pastelube and ceramlube. The pastelube is a moly paste designed for the "outside", exposed components. Put some on your palm and try to wash it off with water. Impossible. It is the most water resistant lube I have EVER seen - miraculous.
 
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