1997 4Runner V-6: Timing Chain Replacement?

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Do 1997 4Runner V-6's have Timing Chains that need to be replaced at certain intervals?

I may be able to buy a '97 4Runner Limited 4x4 auto for a good deal, but the problem is that is has 175k miles.

If I bought it, I would fully service the whole truck.

Your thoughts and comments please.
 
I wouldn't worry about the mileage if it's been well kept. The timing belt is a $500 job at the dealer if you do all the seals and the water pump at the same time. Less than 1/2 that if you are capable of doing it yourself. One other thing, make sure the transmission has been maintained properly. The autos are spendy if they have problems.
 
Probably has the original timing belt, diff and trans fluids.

If I bought the truck, I would replace the H2O pump, timing belt, (and maybe the p/s pump) all at once.

Any additional comments welcome.
 
While I wouldn't be surprised if it was the original belt; that is quite a long time to run a timing belt and if it were I'd be concerned about other maintenance on the car.
 
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If I bought the truck, I would replace the H2O pump, timing belt, (and maybe the p/s pump) all at once.




"I would" as in yourself?

EDIT!

I you're doing the job yourself, you're going to need one of these cam sprocket holding tools to hold the cam sprocket still while you loosen the cam sprocket's bolt:

sirs-027.jpg
 
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I wouldn't let the mileage scare you too much, assuming the price is right. These trucks are well known to last 300k+ with good maintenance records. I just bought an '02 with 112k on it and didn't bat an eye.
The original service interval on the belt for the '97 was 6k miles, but they later uprated it to 90k miles for the same powertrain. Definetly a good idea to do the water pump and belt tensioner at the same time with that many miles.
 
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Probably has the original timing belt, diff and trans fluids.

If I bought the truck, I would replace the H2O pump, timing belt, (and maybe the p/s pump) all at once.

Any additional comments welcome.




Definitely do your w/pump and the t-stat while you are in there. I always replace the cam seals(2) and front crank seal as well. Take a close look at the tensioner and idler too.
These engines will run 300K easily before any major repairs start showing themselves. Simple fluid changes and scheduled tune-ups are all thats needed to keep them running a LONG time. I like the 3.4 over the newer 4.0 as far as being easy to service. If you need any help feel free to PM me anytime.
 
Well, I don't know what happened to my last image, but here's one from Snap-on:

I can always rely on Snap-on to hold their images.
smile.gif


44435.JPG
 
replace these and not worry for another 100k miles

t-belt
t-belt tensioners
water pump
thermostat
upper and lower radiator hose
front seals
all 3 driving belts

you get those done that will knock out half your worries.. its about 600-$700 to do all that at a good dealership whose prices are not outragous..
 
I echo alot of the good advice given here.

The 3.0 and 3.4 liter Toyota SUV V6's seem to have amazing timing belt life! I have seen them cracked to blue blazes and still run fine. The water pumps always seem to be seeping at the weep hole though.

Not really related, BUT I have seen several 4-Runner transmissions wiped out by the radiator. The internal auto trans cooler in the radiator fails and sends coolant into the trans and ATF into the cooling system. This is something to watch on at least the 97-00 models. I have not seen a 01-02 one fail...yet, even though they are the same body style and drivetrain.
 
Thanks for the tips.

I plan to do all work myself.

Derek, thanks for the trans cooler advice. If so epquiped with a trans cooler in the radiator, I had already been thinking about by-passing it and installing a Perma-Cool Dual Circuit Cooler w/Fan and run trans and P/S fluid through it.

Perma-Cool
 
No problem on the cooler tip. Yours does indeed have one, all auto's do. I don't imagine the cooler hurting anything, and the cooler fluid is good for sure, BUT that is a dang good transmission sir. The very, very first ones that arrived in dealships in late 1995 had some issues (we had one fail on a maiden test drive!), but was a isolated event. I can't remember when we had an actual mechanical issue with one besides the cooler issue. Very good unit until you introduce copius amounts of coolant into it!
 
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I echo alot of the good advice given here.

The 3.0 and 3.4 liter Toyota SUV V6's seem to have amazing timing belt life! I have seen them cracked to blue blazes and still run fine. The water pumps always seem to be seeping at the weep hole though.






Just look at how much sprocket engagement the belts have on those engines vs. some others. Good engineering on Toyotas part.
 
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Probably has the original timing belt, diff and trans fluids.

If I bought the truck, I would replace the H2O pump, timing belt, (and maybe the p/s pump) all at once.

Any additional comments welcome.


the idler and tension rollers,belts and hoses if origional . The p/s pump if o.k I would leave it as it is easy to r@r.
 
I wish I could edit my other post. I would change the hydraulic tensioner (thats the tough one). Thats an absolute ---- to get too. Remove the 4 bolts on the AC compressor and 4 bolts on the bracket. Then remove 2 of the 10mm bolts that holds the hydraulic tensioner.

Heres a tip. When you install the timing belt I would put the belt on and remove the idler pulley (between the 2 cam sprockets)That belt is real tight even when the tensioner is fully loose. This will make the Tbelt installation a snap. Just dont cross thread when you thread the bolt in the idler pulley. This gives you alot of slack. Torque the idler pulley to 20ft/lbs (according to mitchell on demand program)

just did a 3.4L today at work. Pray the crank pulley is not corroded on there or you'll need to get a pulley remover.
 
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