I'm nearing the end of an Auto-RX treatment on a 1999 Hyundai Elantra (129k miles), and am wondering which is preferable. Both have moly, and both are part-syn. Maxlife is really easy to get, while Schaeffers is more difficult to find. I feel the seal-swelling additives in the Maxlife are not needed since using the Auto-RX. The car sees mostly highway use in the Northeast US. Grade-wise, 5w-30 is what I'm running with year-round.
Maxlife or Schaeffers 7000?
- Thread starter sciphi
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Schaeffers 7000 is now full Syn. Grp III + PAO. Their label on the oil containers will soon reflect this. If you decide Sch., you can go to their web site and put in your zip code and find the nearest dealer. Personally, I would go to the trouble to find that Sch. rep (and indeed, I did).
I made that same choice too. I like Maxlife but feel the extra effort is well worth it for Schaeffer's. Either way, good choice. I just feel one is a little better and worth the perspiration.
Good luck and let us know ...
Good luck and let us know ...
Also, w/ Sch. 7000 you're getting an excellent synth. for a little over $4. And you can get the 9000 series for $5/qt. From what I've seen, one reason you're probably getting this cheaper is that Sch. is set up for bulk sales to large companies, and they don't have all the overhead involved in trying to sale retail to every Joe on the street - thus you get to take advantage of these prices. Plus, the Wally World oils have to play the game - "if you're THE top shelf premium oil, then you have to have the top shelf price otherwise the masses will not respect you." (eg, M1 EP) Plus, for the Wally World brand name oils, you're paying for a thousand commercials/day on the telly vision.
Oops.
I love it when I go out on a limb, become totally vulnerable and then get shot right out of the sky. You have to experience it to appreciate it.
Sorry for the mis-info!
As I said in another thread, the rep was blazing thru the info so quick that I thought they were, or were going to be grp III. Another user had "heard" they were already grp III, so I made the jump (and now I find I didn't make it to the other side).
BUT, are you sure Salesrep? How can they label "Synthetic Plus" (if indeed this is correct) ?
Meanwhile, grp II+ is a very good base stock (it was what I originally thought comprised Sch. back when I put the oil in my personal premier oil list (along w/ a select few others).
I love it when I go out on a limb, become totally vulnerable and then get shot right out of the sky. You have to experience it to appreciate it.
Sorry for the mis-info!
As I said in another thread, the rep was blazing thru the info so quick that I thought they were, or were going to be grp III. Another user had "heard" they were already grp III, so I made the jump (and now I find I didn't make it to the other side).
BUT, are you sure Salesrep? How can they label "Synthetic Plus" (if indeed this is correct) ?
Meanwhile, grp II+ is a very good base stock (it was what I originally thought comprised Sch. back when I put the oil in my personal premier oil list (along w/ a select few others).
Bought 2 cases of Schaeffers 7000 5w-30. And had a nice drive out of it. Had to finish off the Auto-RX run anyhow.
I like Schaeffer and use it alot. Never have used MAXLIFE but from what I have learned it's seems to be one of the best oils avalible down at China Mart.
Would you recommend using Schaeffers for the Auto-RX clean phase with a 3k mile drain? Going on a long trip soon, and want to get max MPG's.
Sciphi - what was your Auto-rx for? And how do the results look? If you don't mind me asking. Also, what type of car are you running the 7000 in and what kind of OCIs are you planning?
Oops, just saw above that you're running it in an Elantra - other questions still stand if you don't mind.
if its expensive it must be good right? Just stick with the maxlife.
Auto-RX was for fuel economy. Nothing wrong mechanically with the engine, no leaking seals, just age and wear. It's primarily a highway car. No UOA's have been done, but the mileage has gone up a little.
For the 7000, I was planning to ultimately have 8-10k OCI's after a 3k OCI to let the engine acclimate to the add pack. After that, I was planning on extending the OCI by 2k miles each change until reaching the 7k OCI, sample halfway through, and continue on to 10k OCI's.
For the 7000, I was planning to ultimately have 8-10k OCI's after a 3k OCI to let the engine acclimate to the add pack. After that, I was planning on extending the OCI by 2k miles each change until reaching the 7k OCI, sample halfway through, and continue on to 10k OCI's.
Both of them are about $4 per quart normally.
I used the Maxlife for a while, then my mileage started dropping. So I started looking for alternatives.
I used the Maxlife for a while, then my mileage started dropping. So I started looking for alternatives.
You might (if you're lucky) see an o' so slight uptick in fuel econo from the Schaeffers. The rep told me that it will put down a 1/100 inch (if I remember correctly) thick layer of moly on the cylinder walls. This can only help your compression (not sure if it would be noticeable though). Hope it goes well!
"For the 7000, I was planning to ultimately have 8-10k OCI's "after a 3k OCI to let the engine acclimate to the add pack. After that, I was planning on extending the OCI by 2k miles each change until reaching the 7k OCI, sample halfway through, and continue on to 10k OCI's."
Good plan.
Good plan.
Thanks. I'll start running it in a couple weeks when my rinse phase of Auto-RX is over.
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