Oil In the Jeep Grand Cherokee Diesel

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We are considering buying a Jeep Grand Cherokee CRD. I have downloaded the manuals for the diesel off of Jeep's site and you are supposed to use a synthetic oil that conforms to MB 229.51 specs. It is asking for 5w-30 and the only oil that I have found is Mobil 1 ESP Formula M 5W-40 at a Mercedes dealership. Would this '40 weight' make that much of a difference with the DPF and EGR in this Mercedes-built 3.0L engine?

Thank you in advance.
 
Honestly I dont think it would but I can not say for sure because I have never owned or knew anybody that owned a car or truck with that engine. I am sure somebody here will pop in with more insight that may help you.
 
I would think that 40 weight is OK for the summer, but maybe not for winter.
 
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Amsoil HDD 5W-30 would be the ideal choice.




No, it wouldn't. Amsoil AFL would. There are only a bare handful of oils available in the U.S. that are made to the MB 229.51 specification. This is a low-SAPS, long-service life, emissions system (catalytic converter and DPF) protection requirement. Currently they are:

Amsoil AFL "European Car Formula" 5W-40
Mobil 1 5W-30 ESP Formula M (imported)
Elf Solaris LSX 5W-30

I've got a case of AFL which I'll probably use at around 18K miles. I've got a case of Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 on its way from AV Lubricants for my first oil change at 6K miles. Elf Solaris LSX is available from Performance Oil Store. I'm using oil analysis to study the durability and performance of the oil (see the Diesel Oil Analysis section).
 
The AFL has a TBN of only 8 ..and there's no TBN listed on XOM's product data sheet for ESP 5w-30.

Typical Properties

Mobil 1 ESP Formula 5W-30
SAE Grade 5W-30
Viscosity, ASTM D 445
cSt @ 40ºC 72.8
cSt @ 100ºC 12.1
Viscosity Index, ASTM D 2270 164
Sulphated Ash, wt%, ASTM D 874 0.6
HTHS Viscosity, mPa·s @ 150ºC, ASTM D4683 3.58
Pour Point, ºC, ASTM D 97 -45
Flash Point, ºC, ASTM D 92 254
Density @ 15ºC, kg/l, ASTM D 4052 0.850

ESP Formula
 
This is really helpful. We purchased an 08 Overland last week and man is this engine great! The dealership finally got some M1 ESP in but it is $11 per quart.

How do you like your CRD?
 
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How do you like your CRD?




It's great. Every time I drive it I want to keep going and going... The engine is getting smoother and more responsive as time goes by. I just posted the latest oil analysis results in the Used Oil Analysis - Diesel forum. Check it out. It's difficult to get less than 22 mpg in town, and it has gotten better than 25 mpg on the highway.
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Quote:


How do you like your CRD?




It's great. Every time I drive it I want to keep going and going... The engine is getting smoother and more responsive as time goes by. I just posted the latest oil analysis results in the Used Oil Analysis - Diesel forum. Check it out. It's difficult to get less than 22 mpg in town, and it has gotten better than 25 mpg on the highway.
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Has your mileage increased over time? We only have 400 miles on ours and we are only getting 18 mpg. We broke it in exactly like it said to in the manual.
 
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We only have 400 miles on ours and we are only getting 18 mpg. We broke it in exactly like it said to in the manual.




Well, the manual is rather vague about break-in procedures, and with only 400 miles you haven't yet gone through a full tank. I'm following a break-in procedure recommended for Volkswagen TDI's by a experienced mechanic. I modified it somewhat for the Jeep's M-B engine:

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Break-in routine for Jeeps with Mercedes-Benz OM642 3.0L turbodiesel engine by boxcab, as adapted from recommendations by TDIClub.com's member Drivbiwire for Volkswagen TDIs.

Rules that apply for the life of the car:

- When the engine is cold (below the first mark above the base of the temp gage) rev the engine to at least 2,200 rpms when driving. Avoid idling.

- When the engine is at or approaching normal temperature (above the first white mark to middle of the gauge) rev the engine to at least 2,700 rpms. The reason for this is to keep the turbo on boost, clear the VGT guide vanes and apply firm pressure to the rings for optimal sealing against blow-by gasses. The rings need the boost to seal since its a turbo-charged engine, Babying the engine is detrimental and will lead to issues with compression and cylinder glazing if done so for very long.

Break-in procedure

1. First 1,000 miles:

- Keep maximum rpm below 3,400. Avoid steady rpm. Frequent firm application of power is strongly recomended up to 3,400 rpm. Avoid the use of cruise control so that you naturally fluctuate the power with your foot.

2. 1,000-6,000 miles:

- Use the full 4,500 rpm power range. Avoid steady rpm. Avoid the use of cruise control. Frequent application of full throttle is recomended to help seat the rings. City driving is ideal for breaking in a CRD due to frequent stops and acceleration. Once you get to 6,000 miles change the oil and perform your first service per the manual.

3. 6,000-12,000 miles:

- Use of the cruise control is okay at this point since most of the initial break in has occured. Continue to use occasional full throttle accelerations to continue to seat the rings. You will notice the engine becoming slightly louder during this phase due to less friction from the engine breaking-in (it's normal for a diesel to become louder under lighter loads). If you're going on a long drive and are using the cruise control, every so often push the pedal firmly to the floor (don't stomp on it) to accelerate up above your previous speed by about 20 - 30 mph, then coast back down to your preset speed.

4. 12,000-60,000 miles:

- This is when the rest of the break-in occurs. It will take at least 60,000 miles to reach peak compression pressure. For the most part, once you get to 12,000 miles your compression will close to peak, meaning that most of the break-in has occured.





I hope this helps. The main thing is to drive spiritedly, but without jack-rabbit starts and recklessness. Make that engine work!
 
Thanks, this really helps. We have been doing most of what you recommend, with the exception of the cruise control. Oops!
 
Yes, good guide.

Diesels small or large in passenger cars hate being babied. They need work and work hard. My TDI pulls hard right up to 4400 RPMS.

It loves a hard drive.
 
I just purchased an 08 MB with a 3.0 liter cdi in it and in the manual it states that the recommended 229.51 oils are:
Mobil 1 ESP Formula M 5W-40
Valvoline SynPower MST 5W-30
ELF Solaris LSX 5W-30
However I was at the local Napa auto parts store today and saw a bottle of Valvoline SynPower 5-40 that on the back of the bottle said it was 229.51...
what gives?
As far as break-in goes I tow a 6k boat with mine so I guess I am of the opinion that break it in like you stole it and it will last.
Dieselfan
 
Amsoil's European Car Formula AFL is recommended for the MB spec and lists it on the sheet and the bottle
 
Hi, I have about 4,000 miles on my 2008 Grand Cherokee Diesel. I'm doing research now to find the best way to get my oil changed and done right. I don't really trust the Jeep dealers to be knowledgeable enough to do it properly. Plus, they'll charge more I suspect. I've heard about the "wait 15 minutes" instruction and to fill it with oil first thru the filter. But, where can I find the right oil type at a decent price? I might do it myself. Will I need to buy a special wrench for the filter? Can I get underneath without jack stands? Thanks in advance!
 
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