OIL RECOMMENDATION: 2007 Chevy Colorado

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Ok, I just bought an 07 colorado w/ 3.5k on it. What oil would you guys recommend? Im going to be doing a 5k OCI. i know it has GM`s OLM but i kinda drive it hard and florida heat sucks and its dusty down here. I do 12mi to work one way 5days a week(mosty HW) and alot of other highway driving. it needs to meet gm`s 60904m standard(i think thats the right #`s , correct me if im wrong) Also it has the 2.9 4cyl Aluminum block motor
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The OLM is a good reference for oil changes.... except for your comment that its dusty where you drive.

Heat, short trips, drive kinda hard.... I'd pick a synthetic. Probably a 5W-30 is specified. [ If you are in southern Florida with 100 + days look at a 5W-40 conventional or 0W-30, 0W-40, 5W-40 synthetic ]


But dust? I'd pick a good oil, but a less expensive oil and change every 3000 miles or less. And change the air filters every 12,000 to 15,000.

You could look at oils like Havoline, Conoco, Pennzoil, Motorcraft, Valvoline etc.... especially on sale.

Or if you find Pennzoil Castrol, Valvoline Synpower, or Quaker State synthetic on sale you could stock up. If the dust is really a problem, you can't run longer, even though the oil would be fine for the length of the OLM indicator with no problem. But the dust is NOT factored into the OLM calculation.

Checker's, Schucks, Kragen has Quaker State Synthetic on sale for $1.00 / quart after rebate during July.

I'd stock up on this, and change every 3000 miles when driving in really dusty areas, or at 10% left on the OLM for more normal driving.

A used oil analysis could tell you if dust is really getting into the engine, and if silicon [ dirt ] is really a problem.
 
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well i mean its not SUPER dusty, we went through a dry speel of about a month and it got real dusty but its normal humid northern FL now. I just need this thing to last and want the best protection for the $
 
I have the Colorado & recommend Quaker State QTorque Power synthetic. I'm currently running 5W-20 - but you may want the 5W-30. I discontinued use of Mobil-1 because the Quaker State oil give the engine a quieter sound. Both brands showed zero consumption with 6K intervals. Chinamart sells the Quaker State oils in a five quart jug for a real good price. Stay with the AC Delco PF-61 filter that has no ADBV.

The OLM for the Colorado is unlike all other GM models. It's derived from the Isuzu lineup. My first OLM reading came on at 13.2K - so I advise not using it for an honest interpretation.
 
any particular brand? I`m gonna be using a nice good old wix filter from napa. I was thinking PP or syntec blend but then i looked @ the prices @ walmart and i get get PP for like 3$ more than syntec? is there a good cheap blend out there thats readily availible(sp?)
 
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well i mean its not SUPER dusty, we went through a dry speel of about a month and it got real dusty but its normal humid northern FL now. I just need this thing to last and want the best protection for the $





Then since you are in Jacksonville, FL and its not super dusty...why not pick a good synthetic 5W-30 [ if that is the specified grade ] and change it by the OLM or sooner?

Any name brand oil , nowadays, is usually very good... as long as it meets the manufacturer's specs.

I prefer full synthetic oils and believe that thay can be better and worth the extra money.

With modern oils the difference between 'good, better, best' is not as great as it used to be.

You also might want to look at LubeControl.com and consider running LC 20 in the oil, and FP Plus in the gas.
 
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SYNPOWER 10W-30 . . .
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Synpower eh? I havent heard to much on this, anyone care to shed some light? and yes 5w-30 is the only grade the manual says i can us. Also I have gm`s new 100k power train warranty so i must stay in grade.
 
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SYNPOWER 10W-30 . . .
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Synpower eh? I havent heard to much on this, anyone care to shed some light? and yes 5w-30 is the only grade the manual says i can us. Also I have gm`s new 100k power train warranty so i must stay in grade.




I'm thinking SYNPOWER 10W-30 would flow just as well as a dino 5W-30 at start-up and give you more base oil (more meat) with less fillers (viscosity index improvers).
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Use 5w30 if that's spec and look for GM's own spec in manual and use only certified oil to the GM spec (if required).

I think you'll find 5w30 & GM spec may rule out many dino's. Anyway I would rule out dino's due to viscosity index improvers required to take a 5 weight oil to 30 weight (6:1 ratio). This make me worry about sheer down later in the oils life.

As some have recommended, best deal would be to use a full (GrpIII) synth on rebate/sale for $1-2/qt. 'Maybe' even better would be Motorcraft 5w30 blend at walmart for 5qt/$10 if you can find it. TropArtic is also available at Walmart 5W30 blend $1.68 same Conaco as MC.

With all this good stuff cheap why do extended OCI ?? I did 3K OCI up to 17K on a new vehicle using MC 5W20, now running GrpIII synths for less than $2/qt. Any of this can go to 5K without any concern at all, synth could probably go well beyond 7.5K but why bother. Do a UOA for $20, why ?

Just replace the oil/filter at 5K and be happy, then check back in when you get to 200-300K miles on the thing and let us know how much oil your are consuming between changes.
 
well looks like from a post i just reads castrol gtx is outta the question...I`m thinkin PP or synpower if i can get it cheap @ AAP, if not, PP + a wix filter
 
Hi, I have had one of these as a work truck for the US Forest Service for a year now. I was going to run the factory fill until the OLM came on but my boss panicked so I changed her out at about 7k miles. In went Citgo 5W30 dino and she's doing just fine. Oil is still golden amber just like the factory fill was at 7k. Seems to be very easy on oil. Go dino with the monitor.
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