Jeep Liberty CRD, 4 successive analyses

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Dec 27, 2003
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Location
Fort Collins, CO
Miles on oil: 3200/4200/5500/6500
Miles on engine: 3200/7400/12700/19200
Oil Filter: Mopar
Air Filter: Mopar
Oil added: 1/2 quart
Oil Brand: Rotella 5W-40 syn, except factory fill

Aluminum: 13/7/11/12
Chromium: 4/2/3/4
Iron: 35/24/36/48
Copper: 7/2/5/8
Lead: 5/3/7/5
Tin: 4/2/3/1
Molybdenum: 1/3/2/4
Nickel: 1/0/1/1
Manganese: 6/1/1/1
Potassium: 5/2/0/0
Boron: 5/2/2/1
Silicon: 40/9/11/14
Calcium: 1793/2837/3109/3361
Magnesium: 39/19/25/12
Phosphorus: 1159/1079/1147/1188
Zinc: 1380/1161/1371//1321
Barium: 1/0/0/0/
(All other values: 0)

SUS Visc @ 210: 66.9/71.7/74.6/76.8
Flashpoint: 400/440/420/425
Fuel %: Insolubles %: 0.5
TBN: na/na/7.3/7.9

Notables in the last two were the high remaining TBN, and in the last one the viscosity went slightly out of range high for a 40 weight. Based on the pretty positive results I would feel comfortable going out to 10k miles and not doing another analysis, especially keeping soot out with the EGR disabled, which I have had since changing the oil at 19200.
 
Great collection of data.
All of these have the working EGR? No EGR is for the next UOA? Method of disabling EGR?

These engines shed much iron(or is Fe from soot/insolubles accumulation). Wonder if some of it is from the lack of real filtration.
35ppm @ 3200(break-in) 1.09ppm/1k
24ppm @ 4200(looks good) .57ppm/1k
36ppm @ 5500(wear increasing as OCI increases) .65ppm/1k
48ppm @ 6500(I'd expect 48ppm at 8400miles). .74ppm/1k

Now add the Fe+Al+Cr+Pb+Cu together, chart the same way, and calculate PPM/1k.

Regardless of TBN, either install small bypass filter or change oil earlier. Since the full flow is a 3/4", research fitment of overized or boutique filters for those 10k runs.

IMO, ULSD fuel will eliminate the need for TBN testing. It is now a false excuse to run oil forever.
 
IIRC, they unplug the MAF and the computer does not not know what to do with the EGR, so it shuts it off. No 'back up' plan for the EGR and the computer does not use the MAF for engine operation, thats what the MAP is for..
Reguardless I would do a uoa at least the first 10k run. Just to make sure.
 
Thanks for the tips. I'm going to look at the Fe once the next analysis comes back running sans EGR.

Onmo is right about disabling the EGR.
 
Disconnecting the MAF will "almost" shut off the EGR...it still will operate a very small amount. It is a single loop function, so it does not affect any other functions...the MAP sensor which measures "absolute pressure" will be the sensor that will help with fueling. We have an "ORM Board" made that disables the EGR fully AND turns off the CEL. Check on the forum at www.LOSTKJs.com
 
We gave up on our CRD... The thing NEVER worked right for the year that we ran it. The shuddering was terrible at times and it started to conk out more and more frequently. The dealer was not at all happy with it and fought a lot with Chrysler over it. The final straw came when the entire fuel system had to be replaced. Cost the dealer six thousand dollars to get it up & running again. We got a heckuva deal on a new Patriot. It's really too bad as I like the concept fine enough. I'm happy enough with a diesel engine but EGR is a mistake with them, in mine & many other's opinions...

John.
 
Quote:


Disconnecting the MAF will "almost" shut off the EGR...it still will operate a very small amount. It is a single loop function, so it does not affect any other functions...the MAP sensor which measures "absolute pressure" will be the sensor that will help with fueling. We have an "ORM Board" made that disables the EGR fully AND turns off the CEL. Check on the forum at www.LOSTKJs.com




Thanks, I already ordered the kit, got it Tuesday.
 
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