Recommendation for 2007 Toyota Tundra 5.7 V8?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jan 25, 2007
Messages
732
Location
Huntsville, AL
Good evening all!

My 5.7L V-8 2007 Toyota Tundra is coming up on its first oil change.

Manual recommends 5W-20 or 0W-20, noting that the 0W-20 is preferred for better fuel economy. I'm tempted to use something synthetic in the 0W-20 viscosity range, probably Mobil 1 as it can be bought at the local Wally World. BUT, I've also come across vitriolic posts on other boards noting that 0W-20 results in increased engine wear.

I'm a mechanical engineer with some knowledge of tribology but at no where near the expert (or even mediocre!) level. It seems that if Toyota designed the engine for 0W-20 or 5W-20, neither should cause any harm.

Additionally, viscosity at operating temperature of the two oils should be very similar, with 0W-20 having lower cold viscosity. Yet, all that said, how does 0W-20 save fuel? It would seem that the only way it would save fuel is to be less viscous, lowering parasitic drag. Yet, it would then make sense that this thinner oil would have less film strength, leading to engine wear. Where am I going wrong here?
FWIW, truck generally runs mostly highway with some under 2 mile trips during the workday, doesn't tow anything more than a few thousand pound trailer for less than 100 miles, and I generally change oil at the 4k mark, but am trying to get myself used to a 5k mile OCI.

thanks much!
-ben
 
Use either 0W- or 5W-20 at 5K intervals and you won't have any issues. Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20 should also be available for a bit less money at WM. It's also been on sale at Advance Auto for buy one get one rather frequently.

Nice truck!
 
Film strength is an issue only when contaminants in oil are big enough to cause a rupture. Unless you have something grossly wrong with your oil filtration, such a scenario wouldnt occur. Using a quality wix filter within reasonable limit (before it goes into bypass) that concern should be put to rest.

Also, when in doubt, check the UOA section. How many 20wt oils you see showing high wear metals? Also, how many 30wt oils staying in the viscosity grade and not shearing down to 20wt in first 1000 miles?

If you are still not convinced, then do UOAs back to back using 20wt and 30wt. See if it makes any difference provided all other factors such as towing/weather remain the same.

Dont get me wrong.. I am no proponent of 20wt as I run the whole gamut of oils in my vehicle but thats only to see which one keeps my valvetrain quietest. However, I do understand the concern behind 20wt. Throw in the dirty word of CAFE and it casts a shadow of doubt. Much as GrpIII did to M1. Okay just kidding..
 
Amsoil just came out with a 0W20 that seems to be pretty good. Those beasts get horrible gas milage and i would use the thinnest i could get to gain the most out of that engine. If they recommend a 0W20 then use it.
 
It is a possibility that those talking about 0W- or 5w20 oil causing engine wear are victims of the several hundred, or is it thousand, camshafts manufactured by an outside supplier that did not have proper hardening treatment and are failing in the field. Toyota is going to have to replace those engines.
 
The cam failure was that they were breaking in half it was not the cam lobes wearing or flat spotting.i will say that we have not seen a bad UOA report on anything that actualy recomends a XW20 oil. Now with that said we also have not seen a bad UOA on these same vechiles when running any viscoaity all the way up to 15W40 and 5W40. My main concern is not just increased wear. I have often woundered if the wear metal's are being generated in a different pattern then previously. So even if the wear numbers are remaining the same in terms of PPM as before what if the parts contributeing to the wear are no longer the same as before so the wear might have shifted. What if the iron reading is no not comeing from rings but from the oil pump or the camshaft, wrist pin or the timeing chains etc... Then any type of validation based on old research and UOA correlation could be signifacantly off.Seeing how these vechiles tend to have more aluminum and cadium then lead in the bearings is the aluminum reading from the block or the bearings??Is that cromium from the wrist pin or the valve train etc.....Seeing how validation is seldom more then 150,000 miles and only 70% or less of the power trains have to be in proper running order for the validation process to be a considered a "pass" I am not convinced. Gm for instance only required the validation process to meet warranty period. DO you see my point. I am not saying their is anything wrong with 0W20 and 5W20 I am just saying that their are plenty of reasonable reasons to want more data then what we have. No company though will turn over it's validation information.

I would consider running a xW20 if I owned anything calling for it. i would also consider running any viscosity of oil I felt comfortable with. Rember the oil viscosity "recomendation" is just that!

Redline 5W20 would be my first choice followed if I was going to use a 5W20 synthetic. If I was going to go with dino I would go with Havoline or Motorcraft.If I was going to go for a 5W30 I would go with Amsoils Series 3000 HD 5W30 it does not shear back to a 20Wt. and will give excellent protection.
 
Is 5w30 allowed?
I'm looking at selling my '02 to my son.
And buying a new Tundra.
I have BITOGitis and have a little stockpile.
 
Quote:


Those beasts get horrible gas milage and i would use the thinnest i could get to gain the most out of that engine. If they recommend a 0W20 then use it.




I guess I've got one that isn't bad on gas - been seeing anywhere from 18 to 21 MPG, which is about what my old 4.0L V-6 5-speed Ford Ranger extended cab got. It definitely has a gas mileage sweet spot at about 60 MPH. Faster than that and wind drag causes a big drop in mileage as its, well, about as aerodynamic as a brick.
wink.gif


thanks much!
ben
 
Quote:


Is 5w30 allowed?
I'm looking at selling my '02 to my son.
And buying a new Tundra.
I have BITOGitis and have a little stockpile.




I checked my manual - the 4.7L V-8 and the V-6 engine use 5W-30, but the 5.7L V-8 requires 5W-20 or 0W-20. No mention of 5W-30...

thanks,
b
 
Quote:


Use either 0W- or 5W-20 at 5K intervals and you won't have any issues. Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20 should also be available for a bit less money at WM. It's also been on sale at Advance Auto for buy one get one rather frequently.

Nice truck!




Sounds good. I'll probably stick with the 5W-20 Pennzoil Platinum for now until stores around here start stocking the 0W-20 in good supply. Pennzoil's webpage notes that they've got a Platinum 0W-20 out now, but I have yet to see it on shelves. I forgot to note that when I was looking at Wally-World, they only had six quarts of the Mobil 1 0W-20 on the shelf - the Tundra takes nearly eight quarts!

We're very pleased with the Tundra. We can get the whole extended family into it (it's a CrewMax) and put all the baby-support equipment into the bed. (IE: crib, playpen, toys, etc.) It has lots of power and stops well. Ride is a bit harsh, very truck-like. We've been Ford fans for a long time and I was really shocked at the difference between the Tundra and equivalent F-150. Larger cab, more power, bigger brakes. Seemed like more truck for the money to me. Plus, the engine is made in Huntsville AL where I live.
smile.gif
The only major beef I've got with it so far is that Toyota went backwards in time and put a CARTRIDGE oil filter on it. Filter changes are a real mess from what I've read and only Toyota supplies the filter, at least for now.

thanks much!
ben
 
I have a '02 and would really like some interior room.
I'd like to replace my AC with a DC
shocked.gif

The 4.7 is a good engine but over at Tundrasolutions the new 5.7 gets mostly raving reviews.It must be hard not to give it the boot,to bring up mpg.
Thanks for the reply.
 
kd5byb,If the owners manual is all you are interested in follow it. You are not going to find anything in it that you have not already read before. They can only recomend XW20's if they use them in their EPA milage testing!You will not see any vechile that recomends Xw20's recomending any other viscosity in the USA since the EPA does not allow it. It goes right back to the letter that the EPA sent Ford when they first wanted to use a Xw20 for EPA/CAFE testing.

I do not mean this post to be inflamatory either. I have to question though why bother asking about wich viscosity you are going to run if you have already limited yourself to the single recomendation found in the various paper books and manuals supplied with your vechile? Seriously why bother to ask? I would really like to understand this since it seems to be happening more and more.
 
Did you mean what brand would we recomend??? That would make sense fromt he title I guess. M1,Redline,Amsoil,Fuchs Titan all make an excellent Xw20 synthetic. Havoline,Chevron,MotorCraft all make an excellent dino 5W20. I thought you were more interested in viscosity but hopefully this helps!
 
Quote:



I do not mean this post to be inflamatory either. I have to question though why bother asking about wich viscosity you are going to run if you have already limited yourself to the single recomendation found in the various paper books and manuals supplied with your vechile? Seriously why bother to ask? I would really like to understand this since it seems to be happening more and more.




No inflammation taken.
smile.gif
If you go back to my original question, you'll see I was asking about which of the two recommended viscosities to use: 0W-20 or 5W-20. I don't see where I've limited myself to just one choice...

thanks,
ben
 
Quote:


Ok, manual states xw-20. would a xw-30 really damage the engine? how?

as for filter, yes the cartridge system sucks.




It probably will not damage the engine. The variable valve timing feature is designed to work correctly with XW20 oils, and will take longer for the 30W oils to reach the operating viscosity of this system. I understand that cold XW20 oils do not actuate the VVT until it has warmed up; it will take XW30 oil longer to warm up and get thin enough to actuate. No engine damage should result, however.
 
Quote:


I have a '02 and would really like some interior room.
I'd like to replace my AC with a DC
shocked.gif

The 4.7 is a good engine but over at Tundrasolutions the new 5.7 gets mostly raving reviews.It must be hard not to give it the boot,to bring up mpg.
Thanks for the reply.




I'm really loving my Tundra and the 5.7L engine. It's a real pussycat when you're just driving around town and at cruising speeds on the highway. Very quiet, very refined. Yet, put the spurs to it and it takes off like a sports car. It's incredible to see a 6000 pound (more or less) truck take off like that.

I can't comment on the room in the Double Cab - we knew we needed the CrewMax and didn't even look at the Double Cab trucks...

later,
ben
 
i too have a 02 access cab. we have looked at both the 07 double cab and 07 crew cab. both have way more room than our current access cab. for now, if you need the bed to be the same size you have now, you'll have to go with the double cab otherwise the crew cab is the way to go. the back sets can go forward or back. all the way forward still gives much more room than the access cab plus you get storage space behind those rear seats.
 
I'd go with the thickest oil the manufacturer would allow me to; in this case that would be 5W-20, but that's just my backwards way of thinking.
twocents.gif
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top