Toyota Factory Fill, 1100 miles, 2007 Toyota Yaris

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I probably should've waited longer for the initial OCI, but I couldn't help it. There were a couple of small particles at the bottom of the oil change pan. The lab did 3 viscosity tests, I'm not really sure if it's an xW20 or xW30. Within the TSB Toyota issued on 5W20 oil use, the NZ-series is approved for it.


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Sample Date 8-JUNE-2007

Analysis Date 15-JUNE-2007

Lab Wearcheck Canada



Make Toyota

Model Yaris Sedan

Year 2007

Engine 1NZFE 1.5L L4

Miles 1100



Oil Brand Toyota OEM

Oil Series Factory Fill

Oil SAE J300 5W30 ? 5W20 ?

API SX NR

Miles on Oil 1100

Months 1.2



Antimony Sb NR

Cadmium Cd NR

Vanadium V 0.3

Aluminum Al 12

Chromium Cr 0.4

Iron Fe 6.8

Copper Cu 70

Lead Pb 1.0

Tin Sn 6.4

Molybdenum Mo 524

Nickel 0.0

Manganese Mn 1.9

Silver Ag 0.2

Titanium Ti 0.2

Potassium K 1.0

Boron B 726

Silicon Si 204

Sodium Na 3.9

Calcium Ca 1719

Magnesium Mg 12

Phosporus P 796

Zinc Zn 900

Barium Ba 3.1

Sulfur 2855



cST @ 100 C 7.9

SUS @ 210 F NR



Flashpoint (F) NR

Fuel % 2.0

Antifreeze % NR

Water %
Insolubles % NR

Sulfation 17

Oxidation 23

Nitration 8

TBN (IR) 3.1

TAN NR

Ferrous Debris NR

Soot % 0

Glycol
ISO Code NR

Additives NONE



ZDDP 24

URL



Location ON, CAN



Air Filter Toyota OEM

Oil Filter Toyota OEM DENSO 90915-10003





Lab Notes: All component wear rates are normal. High concentration of dirt present in the oil. Light fuel dilution occuring. The oil is no longer serviceable due to the presence of contaminants.
 
I agree it is rather good for a new car! Notice though that the lab said it was "not suited for continued service"! So all of those nay-sayers that think those of us that change out factory fill are crazy it just goes to show that their is always a best practice wich is seldom the standard practice!Petro-Canada's oils all do niceing and Esso XD-3 0W30 also does nicely.
 
That's a SAE J300 20.

The B 726 (WOOOOOOOOW!!!) and Si 204 and Mo 524 and S 2855 are most interesting. I wonder if this isn't some assembly lube paste leftover.

Sulfur is normal in motor oil, but what is high???

I disagree with the lab. They didn't seem to run any of the tests that would indicate dirt!!!
 
Pablo, I figured it was assembly lube.The sulfur,boron and moly levels are too high for a formulated oil when you consider how low ZDDP,Calcium are by comparison. I do understand Torco does dditive packages like this but they wouldhave double that amount of molly and boron. I also think that the low calcium is why the TBN is so low so soon! This oil would be in big trouble some place between 3000-5000 miles on TBN alone.THe silicone is mostly leaching from RTV most of Toyota's modern engines use RTV for the valve cover, oil pan and large portions of the timeing cover.
 
That's good information. I also changed the factory fill out of my Chevy Aveo at 1100mi, replaced it with Synthetic right away. Looks like a potent 5w-20 Toyota is using.
 
"High concentration of dirt present in the oil. Light fuel dilution occuring. The oil is no longer serviceable due to the presence of contaminants."

Soot 0%, Insolubles NR. What dirt? How is the oil "no longer serviceable", because a little fuel dilution? (heck it's not broken in yet!)
 
I have a 2007 civic and was convinced to wait till about 5000 miles to change the factory fill. but after this i may dump mine around 2000.
 
I changed my factory fill out at 1100 on my 2.2 Ecotec and will change out again after 3k miles (which is about 500 from now) Then probably 1 more 3K change than 5K changes or I may use GM's OLM


Goose
patriot.gif
 
I just dumped the factory fill on my 2007 Hyundai Entourage with the 3.8L V6. I did not send it in for analysis but suspect it would have contained lots of metals. I did it at 1,000 miles and will do it again at 3,000 miles...
 
That is really a ton of Boron. Maybe that is to do an initial treatment of the wear surfaces? Kind of like the Boron CLS additive?
 
I too changed my factory fill @ 900 miles on my '07 Sonata...I am really glad I did, ...what came out was probably the thinnest, waterlike oil I have ever seen...with hardly any coating ability( on the funnel),and I have been changing my own oil for > 30 years..I am curious what the factory puts in, and why the dealer says bring it back for your first oil change in 3-4,000!!..Also, keep in mind that factory fill is in the motor from build date( 1/07 in my case)...I think the dealer should do a change when you pick up your new car , but they dont..I am thinking of using Mobil 7500, 5/20 in this car( 2.4 " Theta")...anyone have any experience, or opinion on this oil or motor??...
cheers.gif
 
I dunno what the correct answer is with regard to changing out the factory fill, but this is clearly a special oil (look at the moly!) for break in. When you replace it with an off the shelf oil while the engine is still breaking in, are there any downsides? I wish there was a study on this somewhere.

In any case, I waited until 5k to replace the factory fill in my Passat. My 1.8T turbo engine is very hard on oil and many of these engines sludge. I currently have 70k miles, no oil consumption and extremely low wear in a recent UOA. If keeping the factory fill in too long has dire consequences, it certainly didn't show up in my engine. I've kept the factory fill in my 07 Sienna 3.5 V6. It's at 4100 miles right now and I'm not too worried about it.
 
Quote:


I agree it is rather good for a new car! Notice though that the lab said it was "not suited for continued service"! So all of those nay-sayers that think those of us that change out factory fill are crazy it just goes to show that their is always a best practice wich is seldom the standard practice!Petro-Canada's oils all do niceing and Esso XD-3 0W30 also does nicely.


Some people think they know.
 
Quote:


I dunno what the correct answer is with regard to changing out the factory fill, but this is clearly a special oil (look at the moly!) for break in. When you replace it with an off the shelf oil while the engine is still breaking in, are there any downsides? I wish there was a study on this somewhere.

In any case, I waited until 5k to replace the factory fill in my Passat. My 1.8T turbo engine is very hard on oil and many of these engines sludge. I currently have 70k miles, no oil consumption and extremely low wear in a recent UOA. If keeping the factory fill in too long has dire consequences, it certainly didn't show up in my engine. I've kept the factory fill in my 07 Sienna 3.5 V6. It's at 4100 miles right now and I'm not too worried about it.


I am a change it early type myself, usually the most wear/dirt is the first few thousand miles .Does it make a difference I really can't say but for the cost of an oil change why not . Some people use syn oil when not required or needed and change it at 4,000 miles so I do an extra oil change on my new vehicles.
 
I dumped the factory fill on my 2007 Toyota Tundra 5.7L V-8 at 2,600 miles. Made me feel good too. Have a sample of it waiting to go to Blackstone whenever my pre-paid sample kits show up.

later,
b
patriot.gif
 
No, I don't see any special oil there. Anyone ever assemble an engine? What you're seeing is all the assembly lube/grease, cutting oils used during manufacturing, storage oils used to ship parts from one location to another.......along with various component coatings and parts infiltrations, and gasket/seal shedding, that'll throw off the factory fill UOA along with a couple future UOAs.

The only thing in that UOA that worried me is the TBN. Why is it so low? Smart move to change out early. No way would it make 5k miles (or whatever the owners manual claims).

When was the vehicle manufactured? when did you buy it? how many miles on it? With TBN low, I would think oil already had several months life. Toss in a bunch of dealer short trips(from one lot's parking spot to another), might explain oil condition.
 
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