Which oil to use in my new Toro push mower

[vronline]

Does it really make any difference which 30w oil I use in this new mower? The dealer gave me a bottle of Briggs & Stratton (SJ) when I bought it. I just purchased a bottle of Pennzoil Outdoor (for small engines) from AAP as well.

Manual says use 30w dino or 5w-30/10w-30 synthetic. If I was going to use a syn, it would probably be Pennzoil Platinum.

I'm interested in your thoughts!

 

[Bill Kapaun]

Just look at all the other threads on this page and then do what the owners manual recommends.

 

[obbop]

I love my Toro and it loves me.

Anthropomorphism alove and well between man and machine.

Yeah, right.

Still, the SuperRecycler is a good machine. Happy with the old-fashioned B&S engine.

I am using the 5W-30 Halvoline non-synthetic since I have extra. I change the oil twice as often as suggested and none is being burned.

I see nothing wrong with using synthetic. When the Havoline is gone will likely dip into the stock of syn used for the truck.

As long as you change it at a decent interval, whatever you use, can't see where it makes a whole lotta' difference but I may be wrong.

Don't think it matters which synthetic you use.

Maybe others have different experiences and/or advice or will chime in with absolutely no idea of what they are writing about.

Then again......

yah' know.

However, comma, and all that other stuff.

Confusing, yes?

That's why I mentioned the changing it regularly.

Yeparoo!!!!!

 

[milwaukee]

I am partial to Pennzoil 30hd in all my mowers.

I don't use synthetic or multigrade oil in my mowers.

 

[Craig in Canada]

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I am partial to Pennzoil 30hd in all my mowers.

I don't use synthetic or multigrade oil in my mowers.

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Remember that a lot of synthetic 10W30s are also 30W. Many PAO synthetic formulations of SAE30 do not require any VIIs to also meet 10W30. I believe this is why synthetic 10W30s are often recommended for equipment like this - it's actually straight 30W but not labeled this way because consumers won't understand.

For instance, Amsoil ASE is blatantly labeled 10W30/SAE30 with no VIIs. With no VIIs, there's nothing to shear, making this "multi-weight" as good as a single weight. My Honda GXV160 calls for 10W30 or 30W depending on the minimum temperature. How could one go wrong? It's both. I'll probably get almost 2 OCIs (2 years) out of an $6 bottle of Amsoil and I probably couldn't find a better oil for this application if I tried.

 

[Merkava_4]

Chevron HD30 would be a good one.

 

[harbor]

I picked up a new Toro 20057 a month ago and did the initial fill with Havoline 30W due to high moly content and good reports from this forum.

I'll change it 2-3 times with either Castrol 30W or Pennzoil 30W (random stock currently in my garage) and then change over to Amsoil 10W30/30W synthetic with a new oil filter. Plan after that is yearly oil & filter changes with Amsoil.

I know it's probably overkill, and the wheels will fall off before the engine goes, but this is the BITOG forum afterall.

 

[Steelhead]

small air cooled 4 cycles run rich so lots of oil fuel dilution which breaks down oil and loads oil with carbon wear particles

run hot so oil breaks down from heat

air filters are close to ground and exposed to higher levels of dirt than car engine

change oil often...far cheaper than a new mower engine

can't beat a HDEO 15w40 in most air cooled 4 cycles especially in warmer climates and heavy continuous loads for long hours

 

[bretfraz]

I'm running the Toro brand oil during the break in period with my 20073 Recycler. After 5 hours of use I'll switch to Snapper 10W-30 oil, which I got free at a Snapper event along with a swell hat.

Nothing like mowing your lawn with a Toro mower and wearing a Snapper hat to confuse the neighbors and cheese off the pro landscapers.

I think most any 30W or good 10W-30 would be fine. As STEELHEAD said, more frequent oil changes are the key to engine protection and long life moreso than the exact type of oil.

 

[Colt]

Mobil 1 10w30 in my Toro 20074 Recycler and change it twice a season but will go with Amsoil 4 Stroke 10w30/30SAE on the next change.

 

[Bill Kapaun]

"small air cooled 4 cycles run rich so lots of oil fuel dilution which breaks down oil and loads oil with carbon wear particles"

With EPA regs, the newer engines are running LEAN. So lean in fact, "lean surge" is a very common problem.

 

[H2GURU]

I too have a new Toro and think its great. The wording in the manual does seem to lean towards SYNTHETIC so thats what I use - PP 10W-30. With these small engines running at full bore all the time, you'd think a straight weight would be better, but in my experience a multi has always done better? I change out the oil around the 4th of July as this is half way thru the season for me. Mine has the OHV B&S (Kawasaki)with a nifty oil filter on the side which will be changed after the seasons over.

 

[1999nick]

It probably will not make much difference in actual use, but I would not use PP in that engine as it carries an SM rating, as does most of the PCMO's of today. I notice that the synthetic sold by B&S does NOT have an SM rating, and the Amsoil 10W30/30 oil does not, either. As the SM rating requires that some of the previously used anti-wear additives be reduced or eliminated to protect automobile catalytic converters, they MAY now not be the best for OPE engines.

 

[Turk]

I would use the Amsoil 4 Stroke 10w30/30SAE.

 

[1999nick]

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It probably will not make much difference in actual use, but I would not use PP in that engine as it carries an SM rating, as does most of the PCMO's of today. I notice that the synthetic sold by B&S does NOT have an SM rating, and the Amsoil 10W30/30 oil does not, either. As the SM rating requires that some of the previously used anti-wear additives be reduced or eliminated to protect automobile catalytic converters, they MAY now not be the best for OPE engines.

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I have been using my stock of Mobil 1 5W30 in my mower since purchasing it in 2000, with yearly oil changes and absolutely no oil usage between changes. My old stock is gone, and the new M1 is SM rated. In looking for a non-SM rated oil for my OPE, I notice that Mobil 1 High Mileage oil is NOT SM. It come in 10W30 and 10W40, and is rated API SL/CF. I bought a few quarts of the 10W30 today, and will be trying it on my next change.

 

[vronline]

My owner's manual says SL or better, so I'm not worried about using an SM rated oil. I use PP in my Honda (10 yrs old) and in my folks' Cub w/ a Kohler engine. No problems on either of them so far.

 

[lazaro]

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I would use the Amsoil 4 Stroke 10w30/30SAE.

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I used AME for 3 years, just adding never drained my Toro, it smoked and smoked and used oil for three years, I found my Toro in a trash pile. summer time is double duty here once a week mowing the lawn, this year I started adding ASE 10w30/30SAE but only maybe 3 ounces so far and the smoking is gone and compsumption gradually just stopped

I even have gas leftover when Im done when normaly I would always have to add to finish or cut what I left next time

 

[doitmyself]

Nick, regarding your ideas about SM, the ironic thing is that Honda brand oil is rated SM. For every idea we come up with, there's an exception.

For now, I've decided that I'm going to die someday no matter what oil I use. So, what will be, will be.

 

[Fatboymoe]

I decided on Motorcraft 10-30 Semi Syn. for my new Honda LM. It's cheap and easy to find. I changed my Honda generator and my Honda powered pressure washer to this Motorcraft oil also. I would of used Trop-Artic 10-30 Semi if my Wallyworld had it, but they were out.

 

[1999nick]

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Nick, regarding your ideas about SM, the ironic thing is that Honda brand oil is rated SM. For every idea we come up with, there's an exception.

For now, I've decided that I'm going to die someday no matter what oil I use. So, what will be, will be.

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You are right. Honda definitely has their own ideas about oil. They don't seem to care much about synthetic oil, for one thing. They recommend regular dino 10W30 in their mowers and other OPE, unlike B&S, who recommend 5W30 synthetic, and sell it under their own brand name. In their cars, if they don't have an OLM, they recommend 5W20 dino, changed at 10,000 miles, and oil filter change at 20,000.

I look at The Amsoil 10W30/30 SAE oil recommended for small aircooled engines, the B&S 5W30 synthetic, and note that they are not SM. I see the Mobil 1 10W30 High Mileage synthetic, and see that it is not SM. I see that at Walmart the High Mileage M1 is 24 cents a quart cheaper than regular M1 SM. Inasmuch as my lawn mowers and other 4 stroke OPE do not have catalytic converters, I go with the High Mileage oil.

Being over 70 years old, I know what you mean about dying someday. I like to think I am doing all I can to put that day off, both for me and my lawn mowers.