Honda 250 Interceptor: what type of oil?

[Greg L]

Thanks!

I haven't decided yet between the Mobil, Amsoil, or Rotella....but will soon.


GL

 

[Jon]

I've used oils with friction modifiers in every bike I've ever owned, and none of them ever did a thing to the clutch. All bikes had wet clutches. I put 40K+ on one bike, 24K on another, 5K on two or three, 10K on another, and so on.

Friction Modifiers and Wet Clutches is an old wive's tale - if your clutch goes after an oil change it was going to go anyway.

I'd be alot more concerned about extreme pressure additives in bikes with shared engine/transmission oil.

Nothing seems to grind the snot out of oil like a motorcycle. Except perhaps a Ford 6.0L Diesel.

 

[Mike_dup1]

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I've used oils with friction modifiers in every bike I've ever owned

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How do you know the oil you used even had a FM?

There is always someone with your opinion but I wonder why they bother to develope spec's for MC oils if your opinion is fact?

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Though 4-cycle motorcycle engines may be considered more similar to automobile engines than 2-stroke motorcycle engines, they still have very different performance requirements. Historically, 4-stroke motorcycles have had problems with gear pitting wear in the transmissions and clutch slippage. In many cases, this can be directly attributed to the oil used. Most automotive engine oil is developed to minimize friction and maximize fuel economy. Since the oil for many 4-stroke motorcycles is circulated not only through the engine [as with an automobile], but also through the transmission and clutch, different characteristics are required of the oil. First, a certain amount of friction is necessary to prevent clutch slippage. Second, the oil needs to prevent wear and pitting in the gears of the transmission. These and other essential characteristics are addressed in the standards developed by JASO for 4-stroke engines.

As with the 2-stroke classification, the JASO 4-stroke classification is also divided into grades, MA and MB. MB is lower friction oil, while MA is relatively higher friction oil. Other than friction, the JASO 4-stroke classification tests for five other physicochemical properties: sulfated ash, evaporative loss, foaming tendency, shear stability, and high temperature high shear viscosity (HTHS). Sulfated ash can cause pre-ignition if the oil is present in the combustion chamber. It can also contribute to deposits above the piston rings and subsequent valve leakage. Evaporative loss and foaming reduce the amount of lubrication and protection in the transmission, engine, and clutch. With less shear stability, oil loses its capability of retaining original viscosity resulting in increased metal-to-metal contact and wear. High temperature high shear viscosity tests provide viscosity characteristics and data under severe temperature and shear environments.

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[badnews]

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I've used oils with friction modifiers in every bike I've ever owned, and none of them ever did a thing to the clutch. All bikes had wet clutches. I put 40K+ on one bike, 24K on another, 5K on two or three, 10K on another, and so on.

Friction Modifiers and Wet Clutches is an old wive's tale - if your clutch goes after an oil change it was going to go anyway.

I'd be alot more concerned about extreme pressure additives in bikes with shared engine/transmission oil.

Nothing seems to grind the snot out of oil like a motorcycle. Except perhaps a Ford 6.0L Diesel.

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You might be right


but my owners manual says to avoid them ....... so I do

I have heard people like you say what you have said, still what does it hurt to follow your manual ?

 

[Gene K]

Budget Choices in Order of cost ($2.50 - $6.00 QT). Not MC rated but proven in those applications.

Shell Rotella T 15W-40 $2.50
Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 $4.00
Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 (Same as Delvac 1) $6.00

My bike is using Mobil 1 TDT.

 

[Cujet]

Mobil 1 D1, TDT, TSUV (all the same) is one of the best oils ever made. I have started using it in my air cooled bikes along with my vehicles. Excellent UOA numbers.

Also M1 motorcycle oil 10-40 and 20-50 are excellent oils. They have very "stout" additive packages.

 

[TimVipond]

Budget choices for motorcycle oil. Formulated for motorcycles, tested in motorcycles, and meeting motorcycle warranty requirements.

Pennzoil Motorcycle oil 10W40 JASO MA $1.92
Valvoline 4 Stroke Motorcycle oil 10W40 JASO MA $2.88
Amsoil Synthetic Scooter oil 10W40 JASO MA $4.65 Preferred Customer, 12 quart purchase price.

 

[wileyE]

Tim, is it possible that some of the amsoil 10w40's might be the same product? They seem to be printing a lot of new labels these days aimed at certain markets? Nothing wrong with that, it's wise, just was thinking if one cost less a gut might save a buck.

 

[SLM]

Didn't they come out with a new motorcycle formula a while ago? I'm willing to bet the scooter stuff, is the old bike oil. Seeing a few more scoots out and about these days and plenty of people kicking scooter tires the last time I was at the 'stealer. I would be tempted to run the scooter oil in my fazzer, but the regular price is $6.95, I know I wouldn't buy enough to make being a perferred customer pay off. I'll be looking for old CI4 spec 5w40s, but will probably just start buying castrol or valvoline bike oil and changing more often. Decent oils, decent price.

 

[Jon]

Quote:

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Quote:

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I've used oils with friction modifiers in every bike I've ever owned

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How do you know the oil you used even had a FM?

There is always someone with your opinion but I wonder why they bother to develope spec's for MC oils if your opinion is fact?

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Because the bottles had energy conserving star thinger on them, and were well-known to contain FM. I can't remember all of the oils I've used but here is just a short list:

Mystik 10W-40 - lots of this, including the new semi-syn.
Amsoil 10W-40 for motorcycles (obviously this one doesn't count)
Mobil1 10W-30, 5W-30 - this should count
Mobil1 15W-50 - probably doesn't count
Castrol GTX 5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40 - probably the first two count
Pennzoil somethingorother
Citgo 10W-40 (probably doesn't count)
Valvoline 5W-30 maybe

a bunch of others I'm sure. Pretty much "whatever was cheap and/or handy" over 8 years to the tune of over 100,000 miles. Never had a clutch slip, an engine grenade, any oil consumption or oil-related issues, nothing. I change frequently.

Honestly I don't care if you believe me or not, I was just sharing an opinion.

As for why MC specific oil is out there, I've no doubt that it is *better* in many ways (esp. shear stability and other things) but it's also pretty darn pricey and honestly for most bikes I don't think it's worth it.

Remember the article in Motorcyclist that took his CBR900 to 120,000 miles on just Castrol GTX with no issues whatsoever?

 

[rayray22]

Maybe a little off topic here...

Correct me if I'm wrong soomebody, but I'm of the opinion that the only reason 0/30 5/30 10/30 are energy saving is because they are so "thin".

What friction modifier do they supposedly put in to make it so much more slipperier? Obviously not moly because as I understand it,it only comes into play under severe conditions.

Personally, I'm running Delo 400 15/40 in my ZX6 and WR450. I like the idea that it has @ 200ppm moly.

I've had absolutely, definitely, 100% NO clutch issues.

 

[Greg L]

FOLLOW-UP:


Well, it has been 2 weeks on the Rotella 15w40 that I decided on. Much smoother than the moto Valvoline 20w50 which I had previously put in there & no clutch slippage issues with the Rotella.

So far, so good.


GL

 

[Warlord]

I think you made a good choice. I switched from amsoil mc oils to hdeo in my atv's and bikes and my wallet couldn't be happier.