MITSUBISHI EVOLUTION OIL QUESTION?

[zmeli]

It runs 19.6 psi at 3500 rpm. Them drops down to 16psi.

I just found out about NEO Synthetic oil. might be what I am looking for! Thay have a 10w-30 Turbo oil. have to fing out if it is API SF and will not hurt the cat.

 

[427Z06]

A 50/50 mix of M1 10w30/15w50 would give you approximately:

40C (104F) 88 cSt
100C (212F) 13.2 cSt
140C (284F) 6.1 cSt
VI 150

This might be a good relatively inexpensive combination. Follow the strategy outlined above for warranty purposes. Do a UOA, and adjust ratios accordingly.

 

[buster]

427Z06's suggestion is actually a good one. Also, I'd look into Synergyn 3w-30. Lot of ZDDP in that one. I'd highly consider that. Chemist used to work for Amsoil.

 

[zmeli]

Thanks 427ZO6,

I have mixed 10w-30 3qt with 2qt 15w-50 in the crankcase now. I did not want to get it to thick I will send it out after 2500 miles then let you guys advise me if i need to go 50/50.

Check out the specs of this NEO synthetic

NEO SAE 10W-30 Engine Oil meets and exceeds requirements for API (American Petroleum Institute) service classifications SG / SH and ILSAC GF -1 / GF -2.

Caution: Use the viscosity grade recommended by the engine manufacturer for the expected environment.

Specification Value Test Method
Viscosity Index 185 ASTM D - 2270
Viscosity: Cold Cranking @ - 20°C 3150 cP ASTM D - 2602
Kinematic @ 100° C 11.75 cSt ASTM D - 445
Viscosity Increase (375% allowed) 6% Seq. III - E
Total Base Number (TBN)- (exceeds
engine requirements by about 3 times)
8.03 ASTM D-2896
Sulfated Ash 1.03 ASTM D-874
Flash Point 470°F ASTM D-92
Pour Point - 49°F ASTM D-97

Film Strength - About 6 times that of petroleum.

Density @ 60°F - 7.273 pounds/gallon

*Subject to normal manufacturing tolerances

 

[buster]

I believe they are a diester based oil, which is what Amsoil was back in the day. TBN is low IMO. Only about 7-8. The 5w-30 specs are so so. Flash is about 430F which is below that of M1/Amsoil. Some of their other oils don't look to bad. Give it a shot. I think I'd use Redline over NEO though.

 

[zmeli]

dietester based oil, that is what there website said. whatever that means? Amsoil used to be this way? is it better now? the flash point is 470 seems very high.

 

[zmeli]

sorry buster, you meant the 5w-30. I agree the redline is my first choice but trying to get more info on the syngern that you suggested where do you find it. wonder why the NEO is never mentioned. strange stuff. about the same price as redline but you can buy it in bulk.

 

[Joe1]

I recommend reading the owners manual and use the grade and viscosity recommended for your climate. Many have recommended deviating from the owners manual; this may or may not be good advice. It is caveat emptor on the internet.

 

[theguru]

If the car is stock then I would be surprised that the correct vis is not what is in the manual.

I think if you want max protection then M1, Amsoil and others are good choices. I personally run the Motul 300v 5w-30 in 4 cars including a Nissan 200sx turbo. My son has a highly modded Nissan 180sx turbo running 1.4 bar. He drives it hard. He is running the 300v 5w-30 but I have suggested he go to the 10w-40 due to fuel dilution (he has 740cc injectors- standard abt 390!).

One thing that will cook (coke) the oil is turnng the engine off quickly after a hard run. A turbo timber will assist, but if you can drive the car less enthusiastically at the end of your run to cool thing down to normal before turning off the oil and turbo/ engine will last much longer.

Also don't expect extended drains.

 

[zmeli]

Yes it does have a good sized oil cooler.

I must have stumbled accross a old EVO Italy post.

If you were to use a thicker oil. 10w-4o,5w-50,15w-50. what harm can it do? some say it makes the engine run hotter and will it cause more wear? I am trying to extend the engine life and need extra protection. I live next to Americas Fastest strech of Highway you can easily travel 90-100mph on the 15 towards Las Vegas. Playing cat and mouse with the CHP is sometimes to stressful and not worth the risk. then you have the Back road 138 up to to Big Bear. Up hill in the heat. I drove to Bakersfeild this weekend in my 93 Honda Accord wagon (5-spd) and drove hard thru the desert up the Techaphi pass mostly in 4th gear. I have M1 15w-50 and it does not burn a drop I keep the engine above 4K for extended periods going up-hill (love those old Hondas) and It was in the high 90Deg/f. this car has 97k miles so the thick oil is no issue. I little off the subject, I just think that we have some roads that are hard on oil. I do not think Germany gets very hot and has cool dense air.

I have spent time in Italy and wow the fastest driving I have ever seen. Audi AWD cars flying on the mountain roads AT NIGHT! No wonder Itay makes some of best Handling cars. and loads of race car drivers.

 

[zmeli]

Your right MR GURU I did notice the Tri-synthetic listed been a few years since that blend.

This EVO engine 4G63 has been around for a long time surely there is data on what works the best in this motor in the long run. Did Mitsubishi use this information to require 10w-30? I doubt it they are all to busy hiding the quality surveys.

I can get German castrol, if I look for it, here in the states.( 0w-30) I saw a post by someone in my area that is using it

I have never heard of the Shell oils listed or the Castrol RS.

 

[427Z06]

A 60/40 mix of M1 10w30/15w50 would give you approximately:

40C (104F) 82.1 cSt
100C (212F) 12.5 cSt
140C (284F) 5.8 cSt
VI 150

[ July 05, 2004, 02:19 AM: Message edited by: 427Z06 ]

 

[zmeli]

427ZO6,

How do you figure the HT/HS what mix will make >3.6

 

[427Z06]

To be honest I'm not quite sure how to do this, yet! I would guess that given the composition of M1 10w30 and 15w50 is very similar you could just average the HT/HS for each according to the ratios you blend them at as a rough guide.

{3x3.17+2x5.11}/5 = 3.95

Maybe someone here smarter than me can help out.

 

[zmeli]

hairlessdog,

I totally agree with you. I will only be driving this car on weekends. It is not to comfy on the long trips. I have learned so much about oil in the last week. I hesitated with the redline/motul oils because of the GF-3 API SF requirements. getting more info on Torco/Neo synthetic if i can find the GC I would be temped to test with UOI. Learned that the good oils that have the maximum protection usually do not meet these specs. the other question was weight. I learned that a lightest weight that I can get away with is better for Turbo spool-up ect. In my situation I will be doing a 60/40 M1 mix with UOI then switch to a ester/Group5 base oil. My car only has 2500miles. and I have changed the oil three times. I am still getting (glitter) metallic flakes in my oil. You can see it in the sun look like a brass color. hopefully only a break-in situation. I am senting a sample off to see whats going on.

Thank everone for there time and knowledge. Loads of smart people here. I will admit that I love machines and OIL. always have and always will.

 

[427Z06]

I'll agree with harrydog too. Although the M1 mix is a relatively cheap way to get a little more protection, I'd spend the money if you need the piece of mind.

 

[theguru]

The new 300v oils now exceeds the SL classification. Put some of the new stuff in my GM 3.8 Ltr 3 weeks ago. The older stuff in 3 other cars.

 

[harrydog]

The EVO engine is a (relatively) highly stressed engine. It runs high boost compared to most factory stock turbo cars. If you live in a warm climate and drive it hard, (And how can you NOT drive a car like this hard?) you're going to be stressing the oil.
I'd start using Redline 10w30 or 10w40 in this car if it were mine. How many miles per year do you put on your cars? If it's 15K per year and you change the Redline every 5K then your annual oil costs, including filters, would be about $150. Is that too much? If so, you probably should be driving something else. High performance cars require a bit more maintenance than the family sedan. Don't try to save a few bucks on the engine oil - go with a high quality synthetic.
I'm sure Mobil-1 10w30 would be fine for this engine. Mitsubishi recommends it because it's a high quality synthetic that is readily available everywhere. But for piece of mind, I'd go with somethig that gives a bit more protection, like Redline or Motul 300V. I know the WRX STI owners in Europe and Australia love the Motul stuff.
Good luck with you new machine!

 

[ikar]

Another thing/question..
Where most of the places seem to recommend thick ie 10w60 and 15w50 oils in these and similar types of cars, is also because when u take them on a trackday, or even a high speed run the hot oil pressure gets v.low, with the 15w50 and 10w60 oils normal pressure is maintained much better.

 

[pooter WS6]

use whatever weight oil you prefer and do an analysis at the same amount of miles, with roughly the same driving style, and a good clean air filter. This should give you a better baseline as to which oil your engine prefers.