New to me 1996 BMW 318i - opinions welcome

[HondaMan]

A new to me 1996 BMW 318i is now in my garage next to the Odyssey.

I am now beginning to research all things BMW, but I also thought to simply ask for any advise/opinions re:

Brands of:
Air filter, oil filter, cabin filter, shocks, break pads.

I plan to keep the car to OE spec, I'm not interested in mods.

I do have the entire history of the car, 161k btw, oil being run is Valvoline 15w40. I plan to send a UOA to Terry shortly.

Also any opinions on the devices that reset the service indicators/scan codes would be great. I've seen a few different brands already at ~ $129.99

Oh, also looking for parts supplier. Many online to select from, so anyone who has dealt with someone first hand, please do advise.

For now that is the short list. Thanks in advance!

 

[JHZR2]

Oil, run 15w-40 delo, or else a 5w-40 syn (rotella, schaeffer's or delvac 1 are great).

Oil, air filters cana be Mahle, Hengst or Mann. I wouldnt deviate from them, all are very high quality OE.

Shocks - bilstein yellows are great. I believe sachs or boge are the OE makers, but I put bilsteins in and they made a barely noticable increase in stiffness, but a good deal better ride.

Brake pads should be textar yellow box if you can get them. ATE, Pagid and Jurid are also very good brands for OE performance and behavior. I would go with Balo rotors, though ATE and ATE power stop rotors, as well as brembo are all good.

I'm not sure if your 318 has OBDII, but if it has a reset unit like my 91 318i, you can actually jumper between two pins in the connector bank to reset for oil/service. otherwise, bavarian auto sells good ones.

I can give you a hand with anything else you'd like to know... let me know.

JMH

 

[HondaMan]

JHZR2,

Thanks!!!
Exactly the kind of information I was hoping for.

Does the Bavarian Auto you mention = bavauto.com?

There are quite a few good looking sites that I am finding in terms of auto part for BMW.
I am very familiar with Brembo .... fwiw I notice in the history that every time the breaks where done, they replaced the rotors. Wow. (three full brake jobs in its life time)

Thanks again!!

 

[JHZR2]

yes, thats the bavauto...

roadfly.org BBs can be good sometimes...

I replace rotors with pads every time too... ive found it ensures a guiet, perfect braking and thus a successful brake job every time. For BMWs Id still go with balo rotors though.

You should also not rotate tires on a BMW, to ensure as-new handling characteristics. Further, you should be sure that an alignment is done correctly - that means with certain weights in the different spots in the car.

JMH

 

[Quattro Pete]

Quote:

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You should also not rotate tires on a BMW, to ensure as-new handling characteristics.

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Well, you could, but you'd have to do it very often, like very 3k miles to ensure handling is not noticeably affected. And at that point, if you have to pay someone to do the rotation, it may just not be worth it to do. Save that money and spend it on a new set of rears once in a while.

Quote:

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Further, you should be sure that an alignment is done correctly - that means with certain weights in the different spots in the car.

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True dat. BMW also recommends you have a full tank of gas while doing it. Just had mine done this morning.

 

[mdv]

Quote:

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I'm not sure if your 318 has OBDII, but if it has a reset unit like my 91 318i, you can actually jumper between two pins in the connector bank to reset for oil/service. otherwise, bavarian auto sells good ones.

I can give you a hand with anything else you'd like to know... let me know.

JMH

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This trick works on OBD II cars as well. At least it does on a 98 528. Identical setup to my E30, but def OBD II.

 

[mdv]

Oh, and I second the rec. on Mann and Mahle as well the Bilsteins. My opinion differs on brake pads, but my car is a track rat, so different environment. I've found any of the OEM rotors (Brembo, ATE and Balo)are fine for street use.

 

[mdv]

Stupid edit function:

I like Bavauto as well, though I do have the luxury of picking up the parts instead of shipping. Guy you want to talk to is Mike at ext. 1247. He is very knowledgeable and will price match for you too!

 

[windnsea00]

Quote:

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Oil, run 15w-40 delo, or else a 5w-40 syn (rotella, schaeffer's or delvac 1 are great).

Oil, air filters cana be Mahle, Hengst or Mann. I wouldnt deviate from them, all are very high quality OE.

Shocks - bilstein yellows are great. I believe sachs or boge are the OE makers, but I put bilsteins in and they made a barely noticable increase in stiffness, but a good deal better ride.

Brake pads should be textar yellow box if you can get them. ATE, Pagid and Jurid are also very good brands for OE performance and behavior. I would go with Balo rotors, though ATE and ATE power stop rotors, as well as brembo are all good.

I'm not sure if your 318 has OBDII, but if it has a reset unit like my 91 318i, you can actually jumper between two pins in the connector bank to reset for oil/service. otherwise, bavarian auto sells good ones.

I can give you a hand with anything else you'd like to know... let me know.

JMH

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He's got it down...however Ate rotors/pads and Jurid pads aren't known to be amazing. If you have the non-sport package then bilstein heavy duty work well and for sport package the bilstein sports do fine.

Also inspect your front control arms (ball joints), front lower control arm bushings, rear control arm bushings and ball joints, rear shock mounts...engine/tranny/diff mounts.

In my 318ti I personally run Delo 15w40, Lubro Moly ATF III in the tranny and Lubro Moly 75w90 synthetic in the diff. NGK spark plugs are the best to use. Also brake fluid flushes every 2 years with DOT 4 and coolant every 3-4 years.

Here's my list of what I've done so far on the TI:

Front wipers- May 2006 BMW
Wires/plugs- 94.4k miles May 2006 NGK
Fuel filter- 94.4k miles May 2006 Mann
Tire rotation- 94.4k miles May 2006
Thermostat & housing- 94.4k miles May 2006
Coolant- 94.4k miles May 2006 MBZ
Brake/Clutch fluid flush- 94.4k miles May 2006 Dot 4
Trans fluid- 94.4k miles May 2006 Lubro Moly ATF III
Diff fluid- 94.4k miles May 2006 Lubro Moly 75w90 Synthetic
Oil change- 95.5k miles May 2006 Chevron Delo 15w40/Mann filter
Flex disc- 98.1k miles July 2006
A/C pulley & Tensioner pulley- 98.1k miles July 2006
Tire rotation- 98.1k miles July 2006
Idler pulley- 99.1k miles August 2006
Driveshaft re-balance- 99.1k miles August 2006
M3 Bilstein struts/Bilstein rear sport shocks revalved @ 25% stiffer/`96-`99 M3 front strut mounts reversed
/GC rear shock mounts/GC coilover springs 450/550- 99.2k miles August 2006
Oil change- 99.4k miles August 2006 Chevron Delo 15w40/Mann filter
Front control arms/bushings- 99.9k miles August 2006 Meyle control arm w/ solid outer/E30 M3 offset bushings
Front alignment- 100k miles August 2006 Clarence & Brown
Rear subframe bushings- 100.5k miles September 2006 IE Urethane Street
Tranny mounts- 100.5k miles September 2006 UUC Enforcers Street
Differental mount- 102.5k miles November 2006 MZ3
Tire rotation- 102.5k miles November 2006
Clutch kit- 103.1k miles November 2006 Sachs
Center support bearing- 103.1k miles November 2006 #@$%!
Intake boots- 103.1k miles November 2006 BMW
Air filter- 103.3k miles November 2006 Mann
Battery- 103.4k miles December 2006 Powerstride
Oil change- 104.4k miles January 2007 Chevron Delo 15w40/Mann filter
Wheels/Tires- 104.7k miles January 2007 Kosei K1/Bridgestone Potenza RE-01R 245/40ZR-17
Front alignment- 104.7k miles January 2007 Clarence & Brown
Rear wiper- January 2006 Bosch

My suspension is pretty firm at the moment and I am running -2 camber, +7 1/4 caster and 1/8 toe in...it really is fun to drive!

 

[HondaMan]

Thanks everyone! Great info... I'm getting my list ready.

A few more questions:

Some refer the oil filter as a kit, others do not. I've seen some pictured with small rubber gaskets, others just the filter??????
I know in my Honda world, Honda will package some things as kits and you are really foolish to buy them outside the kit as it costs more to buy each separately.
(valve cover gasket kit comes to mind)

Spark plugs? Bosch & NGK listed as OE.
I'm a natural NGK fan, but willing to to consider the Bosch plugs. But my question is that I know NGK has two lines, Japan made and US made, same part number. Honda will sell you NGKs made in Japan. I feel it is a much better plug then the US made plug. I've seen the Japan plug last forever.
Will the same apply to the Bosch and NGK plugs for the 318i?

Thanks again!!

 

[windnsea00]

If you buy a Mann or Mahle filter they come in the box with the gaskets and what not. Remember you need the specific oil filter tool to loosen up the housing, BavAuto sells one for $8.95. NGK is really the way to go...Bosch's are a notch below.

 

[JHZR2]

Quote:

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Thanks everyone! Great info... I'm getting my list ready.

A few more questions:

Some refer the oil filter as a kit, others do not. I've seen some pictured with small rubber gaskets, others just the filter??????
I know in my Honda world, Honda will package some things as kits and you are really foolish to buy them outside the kit as it costs more to buy each separately.
(valve cover gasket kit comes to mind)

Spark plugs? Bosch & NGK listed as OE.
I'm a natural NGK fan, but willing to to consider the Bosch plugs. But my question is that I know NGK has two lines, Japan made and US made, same part number. Honda will sell you NGKs made in Japan. I feel it is a much better plug then the US made plug. I've seen the Japan plug last forever.
Will the same apply to the Bosch and NGK plugs for the 318i?

Thanks again!!

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Go by price... Usually the kit and non-kit are the same price, just listed differently. I have not seen a situation where MANN, Hengst, Mahle, etc. sell an oil filter without the gaskets and crush washers.

As for spark plugs, two (or Ive heard three, but havent confirmed it) pronged NGK plugs were the factory fit. Its kind of a suprise to some that Bosch wasnt the OE fitment, but it was NGK! People have had less than stellar experiences with platinum plugs.

JMH

 

[mdv]

Quote:

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Remember you need the specific oil filter tool to loosen up the housing, BavAuto sells one for $8.95.

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I've used old style strap oil filter wrenches with success as well as a socket (I think 32mm?), you have to be very carefull with the socket!

When you replace the control arm bushings I highly reccommend the offset M3 ones. Well worth the price difference.

 

[windnsea00]

^On the 4-cylinder one there is no place for a socket...that was used on the M52/M54/M60/M62, etc. and it's a 36mm socket.

 

[mdv]

Quote:

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^On the 4-cylinder one there is no place for a socket...that was used on the M52/M54/M60/M62, etc. and it's a 36mm socket.

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My bad, my M42 (yes, I know this prob an M44) was in an E30, that took a 12mm socket on the metal canister, not the newer plastic.

 

[Merkava_4]

Quote:

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Also any opinions on the devices that reset the service indicators/scan codes would be great. I've seen a few different brands already at ~ $129.99

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This is an Equus 3100. It's a good code scanner for OBD II.

 

[HondaMan]

Thanks again everyone!

M44 is correct. Plastic top for oil filter housing. You guys sort of lost me about needing a tool to let the housing loose.

mdv/windnsea00,

Funny that you both mention the control arm bushing, after reading each invoice detail carefully, since 101k they have been warning/listing that control arm bushing are worn, last invoice finally stated the problem as severe.

There where only ever three things suggested to be done that had yet to be done, the control arm bushings, driver seat belt switch causing SRS fault (have yet to ask you guys about that) & small leak from valve cover. (very very minor)

 

[windnsea00]

^I was speaking of the tool you need to loosen the oil filter housing, if you go to Bavauto and type in 54760 and search you will see it.

I hope the bushings in the front and rear aren't still original, yikes! If so pick up a new set of control arms and lower control arm bushings...also in your multilink setup in the rear there are a handful of bushings from the trailing arm to the subframe, etc. You can upgrade those also if you want to have the car handle better.

I said this previously but VERY important to check the rear shock mounts, they fail over time (cheap part) and can tear the shock tower if they are bad. The driver seat belt issue is not uncommon, I notice in my invoices the piece you buckle into has been replaced before. You can do a valve cover gasket on your car pretty easily in the driveway.

 

[Merkava_4]

^
I noticed you're from La Jolla, CA. Having a BMW is almost a prerequisite for living there.

 

[mdv]

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mdv/windnsea00,

Funny that you both mention the control arm bushing, after reading each invoice detail carefully, since 101k they have been warning/listing that control arm bushing are worn, last invoice finally stated the problem as severe.

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Change the bushings and control arms right away! I'm guessing since the bushings haven't been changed the arms haven't either. If the ball joints fail it can lead to loss of control. Wouldn't be too much fun for you! SRS thing common and not really much to worry about. Changing valve cover gasket should take 1/2 hour max and lets you peak under there and see what's up with sludge etc...