Syn or conv.
- Thread starter Pete60
- Start date
- Status
Pete60, that's a pretty basic question for this place.
I believe the best 2 advantages of synthetics is their ease of pumping in cold weather (which doesn't seem like it'd be a big deal to a Georgia man) and longer drain intervals as the synthetics resist oxidation better than mineral (conventional) oils.
That 20hp B&S is air-cooled? Does it have a full-flow filter?
If you change it (and the filter) every 50 hours or once per year (whichever comes first) you will probably be fine with regular Pennzoil 10W-30. However, I'd be very strict about checking the oil and topping it up religiously.
During a long stunt running the tractor hard, it could suddenly consume more oil than usual and if not kept topped off, you could run it out of oil (like a neighbor of mine did last summer) and have the thing go kerblammo on you. If that 10W-30 is thinning prematurely due to heat stress, it could reach a thinness where its consumption could suddenly go way up and allow the motor to run dry unless you stay on top of it.
I believe the best 2 advantages of synthetics is their ease of pumping in cold weather (which doesn't seem like it'd be a big deal to a Georgia man) and longer drain intervals as the synthetics resist oxidation better than mineral (conventional) oils.
That 20hp B&S is air-cooled? Does it have a full-flow filter?
If you change it (and the filter) every 50 hours or once per year (whichever comes first) you will probably be fine with regular Pennzoil 10W-30. However, I'd be very strict about checking the oil and topping it up religiously.
During a long stunt running the tractor hard, it could suddenly consume more oil than usual and if not kept topped off, you could run it out of oil (like a neighbor of mine did last summer) and have the thing go kerblammo on you. If that 10W-30 is thinning prematurely due to heat stress, it could reach a thinness where its consumption could suddenly go way up and allow the motor to run dry unless you stay on top of it.
My JD tractor gets the low oil pressure light (at idle, when hot here in S. FL) on dino 10-30, but not on M1 10-30. For whatever reason, the M1 seems to have a bit more hot, idle oil pressure.
Not sure this translates into anything meaningful. Even though the tractor works hard, the engine does not. Heck, sometimes I don't even run it at full power.
By the way, when running at less than full RPM, it actually runs a bit cooler according to my IR thermometer.
Chris
Not sure this translates into anything meaningful. Even though the tractor works hard, the engine does not. Heck, sometimes I don't even run it at full power.
By the way, when running at less than full RPM, it actually runs a bit cooler according to my IR thermometer.
Chris
Cujet, conventional 10W-30s are shearing down raidly these days ... about as fast as 5W-30s. And the shearing is down to a 20 weight sometime in the 1,000-1,500 mark in a liquid-cooled engine.
M1 in 10W-30 starts out a little on the thin side, but I don't believe it shears down as much as a conventional, mass-market oil. So, it should hold pressure better.
M1 in 10W-30 starts out a little on the thin side, but I don't believe it shears down as much as a conventional, mass-market oil. So, it should hold pressure better.
I really dislike straight-weight oils has they are over-priced, under-tech products ... but for someone in Georgia, not terribly concerned about cold starts, they're probably just fine. :shrug:
Still, if I was that far south, I'd probably just use one of the many excellent 15W-40 oils available. Relatively easy starting, great anti-wear additive package, great detergency and if it shears at all, you're still covered as I've never seen one of these sheared or thinned by fuel dilution to a 20 weight.
Still, if I was that far south, I'd probably just use one of the many excellent 15W-40 oils available. Relatively easy starting, great anti-wear additive package, great detergency and if it shears at all, you're still covered as I've never seen one of these sheared or thinned by fuel dilution to a 20 weight.
I agree--15W-40 HDEO's offer the best bang for the buck for use in lawn equipment. I currently use Rotella in my JD L-118 with 22 HP Briggs V-Twin. Great protection and temperature flexibility at a great price of about $2.50/quart. I also use it in my Toro Recycler with 6.5 HP Tecumseh engine.
I was considering using an HDEO 10w-30 for my lawn equipment here in canada due to the additional AW and detergent additives in HDEO's.
Seems like a better choice for a single cylinder 4 stroke engine than a 10w-30 PCMO.
Am I on the right track here?
Seems like a better choice for a single cylinder 4 stroke engine than a 10w-30 PCMO.
Am I on the right track here?
JHZR2
Staff member
Amsoil ACD - 10w-30 with no VIIs and a diesel add pack - perfect for air cooled small engines specced for a 30wt oil!!!
Buy from a site sponsor and do doubly well.
JMH
Buy from a site sponsor and do doubly well.
JMH
GC works real nice in small engines too....When my supply runs out I'm switching to Amsoil ACD.
Both good ideas!
I may be putting in an amsoil order for my motorcycle and I can add some ams. 10w-30.
Plus there's a 40L stash of GC green.
I may be putting in an amsoil order for my motorcycle and I can add some ams. 10w-30.
Plus there's a 40L stash of GC green.
I really like the Shell Rotella T synthetic 5w-40 (blue bottle) in all my B&S air cooled engines. For the price it offers excellent hot run protection along with easier cold starts than either a 10w-30 or straight 30 weight oil. Since it’s a Group III it’s not a “true synthetic”, but it will last longer and protect better than any dino oil. You can pick it up at larger Wal-Marts in either quarts or gallon jugs.
Another excellent (but very pricy) choice would be a motorcycle 10W-40 oil with high levels of zinc and phosphorous.
Another excellent (but very pricy) choice would be a motorcycle 10W-40 oil with high levels of zinc and phosphorous.
Just thinking aloud here, but Delvac 1 is a PAO based full synthetic heavy duty engine oil (HDEO which is what Briggs do well on). Delvac 1 (also known as truck and suv 5-40 or turbo diesel truck 5-40) and for the time being, has decent levels of ZDDP, a rarity these days.
In fact, I may change my JD tractor to Delvac 1, along with all my other air cooled stuff.
Chris
In fact, I may change my JD tractor to Delvac 1, along with all my other air cooled stuff.
Chris
ive got synthetic oil in my lawnmower
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
I have always thought the 2nd best use for this oil and weight is inside lawnmower engines.
Once you use it - you never go back to something else.
I really like Maxlife Synthetic 10W-30 in our small motors. Plenty of additives and more temperature margin than the conventional stuff.
- Status
Similar threads
