Is 10w 30 better than 5w 30?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Aug 8, 2005
Messages
2,095
Location
stamford, CT
Ive read that the most oil that sells, is 10w 30. Most seem to think, thats its better for your engine, better lubrication, yet it has less VI improvers, so your mielage may slip a little. Is it really better for yuor engine? My car is pseced for 5w 30, but i wanna keep it for a long time, try and push it to 300,00 or more miles! its a 95 plymouth neon, give it 3,000 mile/3 month oil changes, usualy on dino. Or, woudl 5w 30 actualyl pro
cheers.gif
tect the same or better?
 
They pass the same tests for engine protection. Minor differences may exist between brands and different XW-30 grades within those brands, but I don't think your engine life will be affected by whether you use 5W-30 or 10W-30, provided that you don't see any temps below -15F.
 
Assuming you are talking conventional Dino the average 5W-30 is going to be a better built oil.

To build a modern SM/GF+4 oil it requires superior basestocks to build a 5W-30.
Most 5W-30 is going to primarily Group II/II+ with very little if any Group I Basestock.

If you want 10W-30 you really need to read the MDS (Manufactures Data Sheet) to make sure you are getting a well built oil.
 
I dont see temperatures that low, however here in southwest CT, during january/february, temperatures at night, can drop to about 10 or 9 degrees. Lowest i remember seein was about 5 degrees F above 0 F !
 
WOW! nelow 0 in viva las vegas! now way! I had always thought, if anything,it gets down no more than 50 at most! Being its a desert and all.
I had also read, regarding 5w 30 oils, is that alot of times, car company's use a slightly lighter grade of oil, for some kinda fuel efficinacy standard, and sacrifices some prtection, in its place, so that also made me think/wonder, if 10w 30 was actually better? True or not?
 
Quote:


WOW! nelow 0 in viva las vegas! now way! I had always thought, if anything,it gets down no more than 50 at most! Being its a desert and all.





I think he was talking about Norwich...Isnt there a Mohegan Casino there?
 
Oil is thick when cold and thin when hot. The colder it is outside the thicker oil is during cold start. In northern climates sometimes oil is too thick for cold start. This is when 5w-30(especially Motorcraft oil) will perform better than 10w. Rest of the time, 5w-30 and 10w-30 protect the same.
 
I know about oil being thick when cold, adn thinner when hot, but thanks:) I gues my main concern/question is about the VI index(improvers) added. 10w 30's have less than 5w 30 oils, and the higher the VI index(5w 30) the better it is for bearings, and being pumped throughout the OHC engine right? Shouldnt that make 5w 30 way better than 10w 30?
Yeah, thiers a mohegan casino upstate from me, its about a good hour and a half driving at least. Im about 45 minutes form NYC, just over the border in CT from state of NY. Mohegan is up in New Haven.
 
And lows near 0 or below 0 here in Colorado projected tonight, 5w-30 ALL THE WAY!!

ziggy, how about doing the best of both worlds; 5w-30 winter, 10w-30 summer, although that is likely not gonna give you any advantage in the long run. I'd imagine there is still more VII in a 5w-30 oil, but much much less than 5w-30s of yesteryear seeing as 5w-30s are now made with superior basestocks. And modern VII are much more thermally stable than those of yesteryear.
 
Which is meaningless. CCS and MRV are the numbers to look at and by definition, at their limits for each "W" grade, a 5w-30 will crank and pump through an engine better than a 10W, synthetic or not. Time to look up the definition of pour point there Mitch.
 
Last edited:
Ok, maybe not meaningless. Past the limits of each "W" grade and past the pour point of the dino 5w-30, a synthetic 10w-30 would actually show movement. But within the limit of each "W" grade, a 5w-30 is better than a 10w-30 by definition.
 
A SM/GF4 oil in 5W30 is always going to be group II,II+ or higher while a 10W30 may or may not contain large portions of group 1. Now no one is saying that all 10W30's are going to be 50% GI but they could be. This is why GeneK mentioned that most 5W30's are going to be better built.
 
Change from a thick to a thin mineral oil
If you are eg running Mobil 1 brand 15W-40 and change it to Multi-grade mineral oil, 5W-20 your gas mileage will probably go down 30%!

What happens is that your oil flows faster and for that reason never get hot enough to require a thicker 40 grade oil.

The lower temperatures you will see with the thinner oil occurred because of reduced friction and internal drag and higher oil flow and better cooling.

So, since the 20 grade oil is thinner it got better flow and therefore better cooling and lower temperature.

The 20 grade oil is at a lower temperature because it was not as thin than it would have been at the previous higher temperature with the 40 grade oil.

Cooler engines also last longer.

Fact: The higher the temperature, the greater the wear, all other things being equal.

OBS! The 5W-20 does not thicken as much after you turn off your engine and this is the very important point.

90% of the tear and wear is caused by the few seconds you start your engine and you don't need to be in a winter climate to benefit of the W-oils.

With the right oil at operating temperature (212F/100C) there is very little wear and tear, most of the wear and tear occurs when you start your engine.

Because of these facts, all manufacturers are now specifying 0W-XX or 5W-XX oils.

Honda, Ferrari, Ford, Mercedes, Porsche, and others specify a 0 or 5W-XX oil to mention a few.

These are appropriate for all engines of all ages of all levels of wear.

This second number is the only thing that may change with an older, lose or worn engine.

The oil grade you need can only be determined by experimentation. If you are using XW-50, go to a 0W-40. If your pressures are still too high go to a 0W-30 and so on.

Remember you also have to wait for the oil to warm up.
Water / coolant warms up on just a few minutes but oils takes up to 30 minutes to get up to just the normal operating temperature of around 200°F.

Older engines may also in fact benefit from thinner oil use. Over time permanent deposits of carbon and sludge build up in the engine oil ways.

It is like a clogging of arteries in humans. We are now all on blood thinners.

The synthetic oil of the same viscosity as the mineral oil will be an improvement.

An even thinner synthetic may be better off.

To get away of the clogging you could just use a thin synthetic oil and change it every 200 miles for a while and end up with an even cleaner engine.

Remember, the only difference between a 0W-40 and a 10W-40 is that the 0W-40 thickens less after you turn off your engine.

It is still too thick in the morning at startup but not as thick as the 10W-40.

Yet, they are still too thick to use until they both warm up to operating temperature at which point they have the save viscosity, around 13 to 14.

Remember that the 0W-30, 10W-30 and straight 30 grade oils all have a viscosity of around 10 at normal engine operating temperatures.

They all thicken when you turn off your engine. The 10W-30 will thicken the most.
The 0W-20 is the best choice because it will thicken least.

There is one more thing. A 20 grade oil is not half as thick as a 40 grade oil.

The real scale is more like the oils having an absolute thickness of 108 and 114.

Now it can be seen that the 40 grade oil is only around 10 percent thicker than the 20 grade oil.

The difference is not that much at operation, but at startup the difference is significant.

Pressure / flow dynamics go along with this 10 percent figure.

A 30 grade oil should be thought of as having an absolute viscosity of 110 and a 50 grade oil has an absolute viscosity of 120 at operating temperatures.

Everyone knew that 90 percent of engine wear occurs during the startup period because oil is just too thick, that's way you want to have a 0W oil with as low grade as your engine can take at the operating temperature.
Make the test and check oil pressure and temperature. Oil temperature is normally about 5% higher than the engine temperature.

For a modern Turbo Disel engine using SAE 30 grade oil the operating temperature is between 78C to 80C at 2500 RPM and the Oil pressure is about 42 psi.

OBS! Over time, the car manufacturer have been specifying thinner and thinner O ils.
 
If you are changing oil every 3000 miles, you can plan your changes to run 5w30 in the fall and winter, and 10w30 in the spring and summer. Run conventional oil for the short OCI's; synthetics would be a waste of money.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top