stuck bolt problem

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
1,716
Location
Germantown, MD
I was replacing the distributor cap and rotor on my '00 Civic EX last night. There's three bolts than hold the cap to the distributor - 2 of them sheared off, leaving the threaded portion in the distributor. It is flush, nothing to grab with pliers. Apparently this is a common problem, the two mechanics I spoke to this morning both guessed it before I was finished the story.

The third came off ok, and the new cap is in, being held on by one good bolt and two vice grips (!). Of course this can only be temporary
smile.gif
so I need to figure out how to get those bolt remnants out of the distributor.

I have a couple ideas. Thoughts, tips?

- drill a small pilot hole and use a screw extractor to twist the bolt out. I have not ever had much luck with extractors, so I'm not sure about this one.

- try to drill out all or most of the bolt, clean through. Replace with a longer (and possibly thinner) bolt, use a nut on the end to hold it in place.

- use a dremel to cut a slot in the bolt and try to use a screwdriver to twist it out.

The vice grips seemed to hold quite nicely during my commute this morning.

Mainly I'm trying to avoid having to replace the entire distributor. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

jeff
 
If the bolts is large enough in diameter and you truly can get a drill bit in it, and easy out would be the best solution. It's essentially a drill bit with reverse threads that screws into the drilled hole and will start moving the stuck bolt.
 
When bolt is so seized that the head twists off, eze outs are usually worthless. drilling all the way through is usually pretty hard because dist. body is going to be aluminum, fastener is steel. Hand held drill is going to "walk" into softer metal. Still, that's the best method. If you can get redrilled reasonably close check on using helicoil inserts, if not drill all the way through and use nuts on bottom.

Tough break!

Bob
 
I'll have to send a link to this to my neighbor, he used one of the flexible-type gasket adhesives to hold his distributer cap on after having the same thing happen to him. I've had the same thing happen to me in places where the previous owner let the bolts that held on the plastic 'gravel/salt sheild' on the bottom of my car.
 
IMHO although this happens occasionally, this is not a common problem, however.

Truth of the matter is, if you leave any screws/bolts on cars that performs in snowbelt area or high humidity for too long, anything happens.

I regularly service Honda cars/engines and while I must say that some of the Dee-cap's screw is somewhat tight/squeaky when undone, I would ended up putting on some light lube such as coating it with some synthetic ATF fluid or similar. Works like a charm afterwards.

You now have no choice but to remove the distributor unit off of the engine block, put it on a huge vise and to either drill the broken portion out (it's easy, just some soft metal screws) or use plenty of lubricants and maybe a bit of heat if you want to preserve the screw threads (I would, for I don't think you can get helicoils that small) and then put on a new set the comes with OEM Honda distributor caps.

And if you think snapping Dee-cap's holddown screws are bad, try cross-threading/stripping spark plugs on alu alloy cylinder heads simply because the owner never service the engine for 10+ yrs!
 
Honda!!

DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES USE AN EASY-OUT. It will shear and you will be screwed.

Best bet is to bore a tiny center hole with a diamond bit, then drill it with a LEFT hand drill bit (cobalt if you can find it - smaller than the drill and tap size you'll need in a 1/2" chuck or greater drill set on R, of course)
 
I work as a mechanic on railroad cars and when this happens, we will usually weld a much smaller bolt to the sheared off one. Then we will turn the smaller bolt to get the old one out. I had to do this one a 2001 Honda Civic on a bolt that sheared off at the exhaust manifold. I would suggest taking the car to a muffler shop (usually has some decent welders) and see if they can do this for you. Even if the bolt in question is very small, a good mig welder will get it out using this method. Good luck.
 
In this case, I suspect you can purchase a used distributor at lower cost than the uncertain bolt removal opions. Try car-part.com to search for used part near your location.

If you decide to drill out, there are some special "drill out" bits from Sears that can drill out a bolt to about 3/16" diameter. If its a M6, I'm sure a drill out is available.

The "weld a nut" trick is probably the best removal method but does require someone w/ welding skills. They have even been successful at connecting a nut to a bolt sheared off below flush.

good luck
 
Quote:


drill it with a LEFT hand drill bit (cobalt if you can find it - smaller than the drill and tap size you'll need in a 1/2" chuck or greater drill set on R, of course)



I am puzzled as to how a LH drill bit is any better at drilling thru the centre of the bolt than a RH one. The torque involved in drilling is much less than the torque necessary to turn the seized bolt
 
It's no better at finding a center, however as you drill into the screw with a left hand bit, the force and the removal of material will be in your favor. As this material is removed the easier it will be to turn the screw in the correct direction and when you near the end the remainder of the screw - it will just spin out. A simple tap clean-up is all that remains, if desired. I have done this in situ many times.

Now if removal of the assembly is easily done and the offender can be chucked up in a mill, that works slick as well. I have also used the welding option which is great for screw and bolts with stripped heads.
 
With a little bit of bolt protruding from the other end of the distributor housing, one shall be able to weld a small bolt/screw from that protruding end and then carefully unscrew it.

That being said, however, one cannot help buy question why the screw/bolt is seized inside the aluminium thread right from the beginning. Spare me those electromigration thingy but I bet ya it's seized up so bad between the threads of 2 dissimular metal that welding a smaller dia bolt to undo it may not work very well.

Suggestions:

(1)use a bit of heat. With the distributor housing unit off the car, you shall be able to use a pencil type butane torch to heat up the tread/bolt area and do something about it.

(2)use lubricant. I would seriously consider using some lubricant to break free of the seizure.

(3) combination of (1) and (2). It works for me!
 
I agree with the heat cycle and lube comment as well. I have found that small, LIGHT, sharp tapping with a very small ball peen hammer will also help (between the heating-cooling cycles).

For larger screws the wax method works pretty good as well.
 
Actually I'm a excellent welder in my own muffler shop. Use the welded on nut,or bolt trick almost daily. Wouldn't even consider it on something that small though. Plus surrounding metal would need to be heated near red before it'd ever unscrew instead of simply breaking back off. All things considered, the used dist from salvage yard(best idea) or silicone adhesive& cable ties (second best) would be my guess.

Bob
 
This probably the belongs in the "fess up" thread from a few weeks ago, but here's the solution I'm working with now. Sort of the "Occam's Razor" approach
blush.gif


It's a version of alreadygone's suggestion of silicone adhesive and cable ties. The cap is held on by three bolts, two of which broke. The mating surface is sorta shaped like a D, with the broken bolts at either end of the flat part, and the good bolt at the other side on the curve.

I got a stainless steel, worm drive style hose clamp. Looped it around the back of the distributor, and over the front of the cap between the plug wires. Held the cap in place with the vice grips I'd been using temporarily, and tightened the clamp down. It grips nicely, no chance for slippage at all. Removed the vice grips and all seems well. I've been checking the clamp after every trip out and it seems to be holding solid. The only way for it to come off would be to break, or if somehow it backs off and gets loose. Both are unlikely (I think) but I'm going to keep a close eye on it, maybe rig something up to ensure it can't back off. I'd considered the plastic cable/zip ties, but I'm not sure how they'd hold up in the heat.

So, clever solution
cheers.gif
or delaying the inevitable
crushedcar.gif
?
wink.gif


jeff
 
I'm with PB on this one.

Unless you do this regularly and know the tricks well, you'll be hacking at it. The chances of a new distributor housing will rapidly escalate.

Call ahead and drive it to the nearest machine shop (vice grips and all), and they'll have it out in ten minutes for twenty dollars. Good shops probably remove more sheared fasteners in a couple days than everyone else does in their lifetimes.
 
If it comes down to getting a new part for your honda, look up www.hondaautomotiveparts.com (Majestic Honda). I have used them before and they are much cheaper than the dealer for OEM Honda parts. Also near where I live there is a place that rebults wrecked Honda's. He has a large supply of parts. Troys Honda Parts-- (205) 556-7321
I got an exhaust manafold from him for my 01 Civic. Very high priced part from the dealer, even Majestic Honda. He's a good option.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top