Seafoam - More continued experiance & pictures

[Toysrme]

So I posted 9/05 about my experiances with it. Here's more.
This is a 1996 5s-fe Toyota Camry with 114,000 miles. This is after ONE treatement done in the manner I outlined in my previous post. (I.E. following the directions on the can) On old oil right before changing it.
This engine spent about the first 100,000 miles of it's life running cheapy oils. The last 14,000 miles run on synthetic.

$5 a can - $2.50 of the product used = Results.

 

[stogiedude]

Looks good. I appreciate you posting the pictures.

I think most people here aren't doubting that solvent cleaners work, it's that people here who have used solvent cleaners in the past and then went to ARX after reading countless examples of successful gentle cleaning results feel that ARX is safer and not as harsh as solvent cleaners that can thin your oil.

I was a big solvent fan and a big skeptic of ARX but I've changed my mind after trying it.

Is using a solvent cleaner like Seafoam going to cause harmful metal to metal damage while it's cleaning?

I don't know, but now I'm less likely to use Seafoam based on what I've learned here. I would be more cofident to use Neutra instead of Seafoam, but I haven't tried it yet, just based on what I've read here at BITOG.

The one thing about Seafoam over Neutra is that you can walk into a store and buy it, take it home and pour it in your engine.

If Seafoam was as effective as your pictures show, I bet Neutra would have shown even better cleaning results. Maybe some day I'll find out??? I'm willing to try it, I just can't seem to get around to ordering it.

 

[hsdfcu]

Toysrme - As always I love your posts! For the price of seafoam, it is the best $5.95 out there.

 

[Toysrme]

Good lord, always with the Auto-RX on this forum LoL! I don't personally care what anyone uses on their own engine. It's their money to begin with. I'm not going to be the one that started the whole "Solvent" cleaner debate. Seafoam is 1/2 oil to begin with & only used in about a cup at a time for a 4-5 quart sump. That's very little. Who cares to begin with? What do people think? That Auto-RX isn't a solvent based cleaner? It's not like there are little tiny men dropped out of the can with little tiny brushes that hop around & gently massage burned oil off places LoL!



Auto-RX is a fine product... It's just different.

• You can walk around North America & Buy Seafoam
  
• Seafoam is signifigantly cheaper
  
• In the case of Toyota/Lexus forums. You can jump on Toyota forums & from time to time and not just find alot of people that have good results. You can see descent mechanical pictures that show it.

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  I bring that up beause just for this discussion I did a 2 year search on "Auto-RX Pictures". Got board afterr sifting the first 150 results. The only picture I found was a guy draining dirty black oil out of a sump with a picture of an Auto-RX bottle. LoL! Who cares about dirty black oil? Show me a before/after picture inside a valve-cover, or sump if you want to visualize something. All the other picutres I've seen are similar. Seriously... Who gives a ________ about black oil & an oil filter that is nasty looking??? That's practically the majority of the engine's on the planet.
  
  
  Plenty of people use Auto-RX on the Toyota/Lexus forums. It is good. Does what it claims as far as I've ever read about it.
  
  
  The prevailing opinion (mine included) is that Seafoam will get the ________ out in the present. For the majority of the people that would use one. What differance would it ever make either way? Now in the case of a gelled, burned & sludged oil. I would rather get the stuff out whenever I set out to do it. Especially in a bad case. In the end, if they both work the same. I would rather have the change in the present, than off in the distant future.
  
  
  
  
  Personally... Take everything with a grain of salt & expect everyone else to take what I say that way also. Because practically anything sold now-a-days is 50% marketing bull****, 25% biased opinions, and 25% descent info.
  
  
  
  
  
  I will say this. You drive into any mechanic bay to change a valve cover gasket & they see something like that. What are they going to do??? They'll drop an entire can (normally a quart) of whatever engine "cleaner" they have on hand & either leave it in a half an hour+, or however long they feel like fooling with it. In general, the cleaners are blah compaired to anything you would really find recommended.

 

[hsdfcu]

Toysrme - Out of all the years of reading your post on the toyo and Lexus forums, you hit the nail on the head/directly/full-center with your post!

 

[Reg# 43897]

Agreed.

John.

 

[RinconVTR]

I guess I'm not alone...

 

[Quickbeam]

It's part solvent so it'll do some cleaning but if solvents are your thing why not just pour some kerosene in? It's cheaper. Seafoam isn't going to hurt anything in the crankcase but sucking it into the intake is a different story. Burning oil isn't doing the substrate and washcoat on your catalyst any favors.

And if you're going to aspirate any cleaner into the induction system you should do it upstream of the TB but downstream of the MAF sensor for even distribution. Putting it in at the brake booster sends most of it into the nearest cylinder. Also try to use one that isn't half oil. That's my .02

 

[hsdfcu]

think any fluid you inject into the air stream would be after the MAF sensor. Kind of hard to put it before since MAF is about 6 inches from the air filter.

I tried it both ways; via brake booster AND via the TB (using Deep creep). Both did great for power gains on my car. I also tried other additives and “natural” items added to oil. Nothing did what seafoam did (power wise). I would try this means before the oil adds.

 

[Toysrme]

Quote:

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It's part solvent so it'll do some cleaning but if solvents are your thing why not just pour some kerosene in?

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AHHHHHHHH Son take your junk to another thread where people care to hear that mess.
I may be the flat out dumbest person on this forum. But I'm not ****ed stupid. Don't reply to me like I am...

This is what I don't get. All the people like you that insessantly believe the lie that the "RX"'s are not solvents. Do you people not realize that is simply not true??? Making fun of, or downing any other cleaner because it is a solvent is simply down right wrong. Seafoam is no more a solvent than Auto-RX is, or any other engine cleaner is. So don't bring that ignorant junk into a thread that is NOT about auto-rx. Where it is NOT invited...


Engine oils, and transmission fluids are both solvents to begin with... As are diesel fuel, and gasoline. If you don't believe that, I have a nice small pot of used oil, Dexron-III, and TT-IV that I drop dull chainsaw blades in to clean them before sharpening.


Am I the only person that knows what "A natural mix of esters" actually means??? Lanolino ester from what the MSDS, and people have said here have said a thousand times over. That's nothing more than a fancy name for freaking WOOL ALCOHOL.
Lord Wool alcohol is made using the most commonly used "bad" substance pumped through an engine to begin with. Methyl Alcohol.

So don't spill your flat out incorrect post that a certain family of cleaners do not work by being a solvent, and other cleaners are flat out bad because they are a solvent.

They are all solvents...
If it walks like a duck, swims like a duck, quacks like a duck, and BY DEFINITION is a ****ed duck... Get your facts straight people. It's a ****ed duck people. One bottle may be a pretty mallard duck, and the other may be a Pekin duck. But both are species in the same Anatidae family.

Like I said. I may be the dumbest person here. But I'm not stupid...

Quote:

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American Heritage Dictionary - Cite This Source sol·vent (slvnt, sôl-) Pronunciation Key
adj.
Capable of meeting financial obligations.
Chemistry. Capable of dissolving another substance.
n.
Chemistry.
A substance in which another substance is dissolved, forming a solution.
A substance, usually a liquid, capable of dissolving another substance.
Something that solves or explains.
[French, from Latin solvns, solvent- present participle of solvere, to loosen. See solve.]

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[Toysrme]

Look I am going to say it ONE more time...
I have nothing against Auto-RX, or anoyone that uses it. I just don't care. THIS IS NOT A THREAD abut Auto-RX. Aside from that. Don't come to me with some useless junk.
I've never stopped someone from using Auto-RX.


The bottom line is that Auto-RX is as much a solvent, as any other product you can buy. So in return. In return. I would greatly appreciate all you "fanboys" to keep your false, marketing B S junk out of a thread I post having nothing to do with Auto-RX...














Saying "RX" is not a solvent, while other products are is flat out ignorance. For future refferance. I'll even tell you what the *correct* argument you're looking for is:
"Is it better to use a product that gives results in 10-20-60 minutes of operation, or a product that takes hundreds of hours of operation."


I don't care if anyone wants to say what they want to say in every other thread on this forum. But you will not come to this thread, and spill that same old tired line over & over when it is simply not true. I don't care. Have I ever? No, I've never said anything about auto-rx in an auto-rx thread. NOR will I just blast RX in a thread not about RX.
It is a product that works. Does exactly what it says it does.
That doesn't make it some gift from the heavens with a free-pass for saying any random mess that's not true.



If you want to post where I post. I'm sorry. You'll have to be dumb like me & bring your brains to a discussion. Please... Don't make me write the same thread for a third time. Because I honestly have nothing better to do tomorrow than long on here & re-type what I've already said.


Cheers.

Now... To get back on-topic, which happens to be.

"Look what Seafoam did - it works pretty good don't it?"

 

[Toysrme]

Quote:

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And if you're going to aspirate any cleaner into the induction system you should do it upstream of the TB but downstream of the MAF sensor for even distribution. Putting it in at the brake booster sends most of it into the nearest cylinder. Also try to use one that isn't half oil. That's my .02

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I will flat out admit you are 100% correct. *Nothing* cleans a combustion chamber better that flat out water injection will. Now that being said. What are people more prone to doing? Busting out time or money for water injection? Or using a $5-6 can of Seafoam?
AFA the cat, o2 & plugs. Noone has yet fouled one on a Toyota/lexus forum I frequent, and the can says it's safe so... Take it with a grain of salt, but I long ago proclaimed it OK.


Every mechanic shop also tries to do the same thing with throttlebody/carb cleaner. It just doesn't work nearly as well.



Also. No intake manifold is gaurenteed to distribute anything evenly to begin with. Air, fuel, nothing. The majority don't.
For a MAF. If you are flat out dumb enough to run any liquid before a hot-wire MAF sensor, or thermistor IAT sensor, you desirve the work of pulling out a q-tip with some isopropyl alcohol on it & cleaning it.
(Which is routine maintenance on any hot-wire MAF, just like eventually cleaning a throttlebody/plate, EGR valve, and idle valve in any engine that is equipped with a breather, or EGR system.)

 

[Quickbeam]

Um "Son", I was referring to SeaFoam. This is from your other thread:

40-60% Pale Oil
25-35% Naptha
10-20% Isophthalic Acid

No solvents? Naptha isn't a solvent? Seafoam has esters? Where?

And if you think an engine can make 40 inches of vacuum (as you stated in that thread) you might possibly be the dumbest person on Earth (or whatever planet you're on that has such high atmospheric pressure).

I'm a professional mechanic, are you? I'm a licensed emissions tech, are you? You want to burn oil in your cat be my guest. You want to pour little more than light oil and solvent in your crankcase have at it. You want buy or push what most knowledgeable people consider oil of snake I have no problem with that...but don't be spouting nonsense to the gullible or telling me my business if you don't even know how an engine works or didn't bother to pay attention in science class.

And based on a bunch of other things you've written then yeah, you'll forgive me if I take everything you say with a grain of salt. You're what we in the auto repair biz call "clueless enough to be dangerous".

 

[Quickbeam]

Oh, one more thing: I'm not defending Auto RX. In fact I think it's sort of a joke too. Call it semi-snake oil. I'm not at all convinced it does what it claims but at least it appears to work sometimes. Just that sometimes isn't good enough "science" for me. Your precious Seafoam might as well be kerosene. That works for cleaning sludge too but I wouldn't put it in my oil and I wouldn't run it through my cat.

 

[Toysrme]

Quote:

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Um "Son", I was referring to SeaFoam.

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Then I appolagize, but I do still stand by that for anyone else LoL!

Quote:

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I'm a professional mechanic, are you? I'm a licensed emissions tech, are you?

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Yes I am, and No I'm not. What does a liscened emessions tech mean to anything? Every discussion I've ever had about an "emessions technition" was laughing at the fact that California has the most strengent techintions on the planet, yet they can't "find the turbo".

What's the worst part about this car? Not only has it passed multiple legit CA emessions, but it continues passing them after being a big story awhile back in Sport Compact Car. Talk about being a target LoL!

 

[BrianWC]

Oh, I don't think it was a cut by anyone to say put some kero in. Many people do use kerosene. It's no worse than any of the other solvents (and I don't use that term in a bad way). I have no doubt that some of the stronger stuff removes crud and even dissolves it a great deal. I've used toluene to clean things for a while. I can also say that arx showed the most significant cleaning of anything I have documented. It certainly isn't some magical gift from on high as some would hope to believe but it did clean things.

 

[surfstar]

ARX is not a solvent.

 

[Drew99GT]

Toysrme, is that your car?????????? I saw that car in Turbo magazine!!! Frickin SWEET sleeper and absolutely amazing power for such a cheap build. WELL DONE!!!

 

[Mr Nice]

Thats pretty cool what you did with the factory air box.

 

[Toysrme]

Eh me personally. I like diesel above kerosene. It's too hard to find high grade kerosene & diesel is 2/3 of the price here.
The trick to that is... Adding a quart at 10min of nothing but idling, the bearing surfaces won't care. At 20min you're really pushing your luck on wear to start. You could probably get one to knocking if you drove it with a quart of either in it, or let it idle an hour.



Drew99GT not mine, but I talk to the guy online. Oh ________ you're going to take me so far off topic LoL! Are you kidding? My honda is a beater! Bent the frame doing a hillclimb on it. The power was just average. Most d-seires will do around 200-220whp if you know what you're doing. Now some of the B-sieres will put out around 275-300whp. Doesn't last, but nobody has ever seemed to care.
The cost of turbo'ing a Honda i4 is fairly cheap. You *can* do it as cheaply as you want, but it normally only runs out around $1000-1500usd to practically double the power output of one.
I use my Honda for two things. A backup car to the turbo Lexus, and sometimes it's just better b/c it get's 40-45mpg (And it's a hatch so...)