My 2005.5 2.0t fsi audi quattro is due next week for the first service at 5k. The dealer will use Syntec 5w-40 or if I pay an extra $30 they will use M1 0w-40. My daily commute is 25 miles down hill to Denver (elevation 5280 ft.) at highway speeds. During the day I usually put about 10 miles in city traffic. Then 25 miles up to my house at 8000 ft. elevation. The last 5 miles the turbo is spinning hard to get the car up the hill. I'm trying to stick with one brand for as long as I own the car. After this first service dealer only pays for 10k oil change intervals. Your thoughts?
first oil change for 2005.5 2.0t fsi audi-bc or m1?
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I've heard some Audi dealers started using Agip 5w-40 now instead of the Syntec. Whichever the case, if you'll be doing 5K mile OCIs (which I think would be wise), I think you'll be fine with either of these oils.
Hopefully you're letting that turbo cool off a bit when you get home.
Hopefully you're letting that turbo cool off a bit when you get home.
I just looked it up on audiusa.com and the 2.0t is used in the new-to-USA A3 with a 4.8 qt oil capacity. The motor is also used in the A4 with a 6.3 qt oil capacity. If it's like other Audi motors, it's spec'ed for a quality VW 502.00-approved oil. I prefer GC, but MI 0w40 is good, also. The BC is OK, I understand, but not as good as GC. During warranty I supplied my Audi dealer with GC or M1 0w40 for the 10K services.
Sounds like you have the A4, since the A3 isn't offered with quattro, yet, in the USA.
[ October 15, 2005, 02:50 PM: Message edited by: williar ]
Sounds like you have the A4, since the A3 isn't offered with quattro, yet, in the USA.
[ October 15, 2005, 02:50 PM: Message edited by: williar ]
I definitely would not use M1 0w40 unless the supersyn/new bottles/long interval is really a change and not just marketing. Too much shear IMHO. In my chipped Jetta 1.8T it would do ok for about 2k miles then the engine would start getting noisy- valvetrain and maybe wrist pin/piston slap.
My choice would be Valvoline's synthetic if no GC M03/04 is availible. Until the Gold is proven. Or I would even use the Syntec 5w40 like the dealers use just get it from a cheaper source. I've always liked Chevron lubricant products also. Of course there are the other European oils Pentosin, Lubo, bla, bla- but they're hard to get and expensive, especially if shipped.
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A VW 504.00 rated oil should also be fine in the new Audi. There's an Audi specialist in Colorado Springs, Champagne Motors (google them), and they sell Elf oil. I'm sure they can supply you with an excellent oil.
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The 2.0T is available in both, A3 and A4 models. I parked next to 3(!) new A4 today.
Acutally it could be a big deal- climbing the elevations where he lives the turbo can generate a lot of heat. I drive a tubro VW and live in a mountainous region also. I'm just posting from experience and the comments of the oil savy. I've ran quite a bit of M1, it is a good oil. But frankly I was dissapointed with its long term durability/ability to maintain its properties. Funny, now Mobile has a big long drain interval campaign with talk how well their oils do over the long term. I hope it's true, because a lot of people running small displacement turbocharged engines in realitively heavy cars will pay a price if it all hype.quote:
Originally posted by bar1:
If you read Doug's post about 0W-40 oils I think you will realize that the supposed shear is exaggerated.
Ok, a few UAO show shear from a thin 40 to a thick 30. Big deal
M1 0W-40 is a very good choice for the 1.8t engine.
Sounds like I-70 West / Floyd Hill out of Denver.
I'd take the dealership's free Syntec 5W-40 at 10K intervals....and probably try a used oil analysis at 7K into the the 10K OCI.
You may find that the oil looks fine for 10K.
If the oil didn't look great then I'd pay for a 5K oil change with the same oil and filter as the dealer and let the dealer do the free 10K OCI.
I'd think with mountainous environment, cold temps, and mag chlor salt on the roads that this would be 'severe' driving conditions and Audi might not want a 10 oil change interval for 'severe' driving conditions.
[ October 20, 2005, 10:20 AM: Message edited by: Thatwouldbegreat ]
Hi,
Slickfisher - you said;
"Acutally it could be a big deal- climbing the elevations where he lives the turbo can generate a lot of heat."
and;
"Funny, now Mobile has a big long drain interval campaign with talk how well their oils do over the long term. I hope it's true, because a lot of people running small displacement turbocharged engines in realitively heavy cars will pay a price if it all hype."
In real terms a Manufacturer's oil Approval test protocols can go way beyond a simple HTHS test for a variety of reasons. These are usually tailored for its engine familie's metallurgy, expected operating oil temperatures and application/use. This is the case with the extended HTHS testing carried out by Porsche - all of their Listed oils have passed this and their extended 100C viscosity and special anti-foaming test and other protocols too. No xxW-30 oils of any brand are currently Approved!
Both Castrol's "BC" 5w-40 and Mobil 1 0w-40 are Approved and Listed by Porsche.
M1 0w-40 is their factory fill and a 0w-40 lubricant is the mandatory service fill for their ultra high performance twin turbo Cayenne V8 and etc.
I was an initial user of GC 0w-30 when it was first introduced nearly 10 years ago (and as many on BITOG know, Pscholte has bestowed "Honorary Elf" status on me)
IMHO and in this specific application I would pay the extra money and use a 0w-40 oil!
I use M1 0w-40 in my supercharged Benz over Delvac 1 5w-40 and I live in the Tropics where the ambient is often way beyond 38C (100F)
1bar - IMHO I would expect that the HTHS of the Porsche Approved & Listed oils (0w-40, 5w-40) to remain higher that a non Approved (or no longer Listed) xxw-30 lubricant during normal most vehicle applications and over prescribed OPCIs
Also remember that German cars are put together to run fast and long on their Autobahns and through high mountains in temperatures from below -30C to 40C+ as well as normal city/urban use
Doug
Slickfisher - you said;
"Acutally it could be a big deal- climbing the elevations where he lives the turbo can generate a lot of heat."
and;
"Funny, now Mobile has a big long drain interval campaign with talk how well their oils do over the long term. I hope it's true, because a lot of people running small displacement turbocharged engines in realitively heavy cars will pay a price if it all hype."
In real terms a Manufacturer's oil Approval test protocols can go way beyond a simple HTHS test for a variety of reasons. These are usually tailored for its engine familie's metallurgy, expected operating oil temperatures and application/use. This is the case with the extended HTHS testing carried out by Porsche - all of their Listed oils have passed this and their extended 100C viscosity and special anti-foaming test and other protocols too. No xxW-30 oils of any brand are currently Approved!
Both Castrol's "BC" 5w-40 and Mobil 1 0w-40 are Approved and Listed by Porsche.
M1 0w-40 is their factory fill and a 0w-40 lubricant is the mandatory service fill for their ultra high performance twin turbo Cayenne V8 and etc.
I was an initial user of GC 0w-30 when it was first introduced nearly 10 years ago (and as many on BITOG know, Pscholte has bestowed "Honorary Elf" status on me)
IMHO and in this specific application I would pay the extra money and use a 0w-40 oil!
I use M1 0w-40 in my supercharged Benz over Delvac 1 5w-40 and I live in the Tropics where the ambient is often way beyond 38C (100F)
1bar - IMHO I would expect that the HTHS of the Porsche Approved & Listed oils (0w-40, 5w-40) to remain higher that a non Approved (or no longer Listed) xxw-30 lubricant during normal most vehicle applications and over prescribed OPCIs
Also remember that German cars are put together to run fast and long on their Autobahns and through high mountains in temperatures from below -30C to 40C+ as well as normal city/urban use
Doug
Alright, first service is at 5k, fine...use the BC, it's fine for 5k. The real question is what to use at the 10k mark. You have a lot of optiions.
I would not go a full 10,000 mi on the BC, perhaps a mid-OCI drain and refill would be indicated. Say, using an oil extractor, just pull out the oil at 5k and refill.
Either do that or pay for the Mobil 1 or BYO GC for a full 10k. I imagine that a drain and fill at 5k would result in a cleaner engine, but you would have to pay for the BC anyway. So the cost is essentially the same excepting the oil extractor itself.
The next level would be BYO Mobil 1 or GC at 5k and then also do just fluid change with the extractor. Next would be full filter and fluid changes of Mobil 1 or GC at 5k....that would be expensive.
One more option worth mentioning is doing 7500 mi intervals with BYO oil, like Mobil 1/GC. Dealers are not bound to timetable for the OC, it's just a certian number of credits over time for inclusive OC. That's probally what I'd recommend to do... BYO oil for free services and pay for the occasional dealer OC service, alternating at 7500 mi.
I already have an extractor, but would not be thrilled with paying for the BC to keep the fluid the same as dealer OC fill. I dunno, complicated choices. Crunch the numbers and pick a service plan.
BTW- don't worry about changing brands, it's probally a good idea to change brands...one will clean up what another leaves behind.
I would not go a full 10,000 mi on the BC, perhaps a mid-OCI drain and refill would be indicated. Say, using an oil extractor, just pull out the oil at 5k and refill.
Either do that or pay for the Mobil 1 or BYO GC for a full 10k. I imagine that a drain and fill at 5k would result in a cleaner engine, but you would have to pay for the BC anyway. So the cost is essentially the same excepting the oil extractor itself.
The next level would be BYO Mobil 1 or GC at 5k and then also do just fluid change with the extractor. Next would be full filter and fluid changes of Mobil 1 or GC at 5k....that would be expensive.
One more option worth mentioning is doing 7500 mi intervals with BYO oil, like Mobil 1/GC. Dealers are not bound to timetable for the OC, it's just a certian number of credits over time for inclusive OC. That's probally what I'd recommend to do... BYO oil for free services and pay for the occasional dealer OC service, alternating at 7500 mi.
I already have an extractor, but would not be thrilled with paying for the BC to keep the fluid the same as dealer OC fill. I dunno, complicated choices. Crunch the numbers and pick a service plan.
BTW- don't worry about changing brands, it's probally a good idea to change brands...one will clean up what another leaves behind.
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