Can German Castrol 0w30 Cause Sluggishness Over Mobil1 10w-30 ?

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When I switched my SHO over to GC from 10w-30 GTX; I noticed nothing. Perhaps the engine was a bit smoother up top, but otherwise...nah
 
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Originally posted by Virtuoso:
When I switched my SHO over to GC from 10w-30 GTX; I noticed nothing. Perhaps the engine was a bit smoother up top, but otherwise...nah

Same on my '00 Monte 3.8, maybe a little quieter, maybe, but no power difference.
 
Don't have the answer to this but has anyone thought about moly being one of the differences between GC and Mobil 1. I am no oil expert but isn't moly a friction modifier? I would think this is also why redline uses so much moly. Maybe one of the oil experts on the site can tell us more.
 
So run it a qt. low that will make it feel fast right! That's if it feels like your driving with the hand brake on.
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[ August 18, 2004, 07:04 PM: Message edited by: dropitby ]
 
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Originally posted by JohnnyG:
I think it depends a great deal on engine design. My Northstar (99 STS) felt pretty sluggish after starting with the GC. I have been keeping it at the "ADD" mark, most oils seem to do well right there. I would need to keep adding a couple of ounces after each 300 mile trip. This is the only thing this car is used for, highway trips. This last 300 mile trip, I left it at the bottom of the dipstick, about 1/4" below ADD, and the difference is remarkable. My gas mileage is back up to 26.5 - 27 highway (after 24 - 24.5) and it feels like about 20 more HP. Used absolutely NO oil this last trip. The oil now has 5000 miles on it (55000 on motor) and it may just have sheared down. I also noticed that it was somewhat dirtier suddenly, and I do mean suddenly as I check it every trip and it has looked clean to this point. Could there be such a thing as resistance to "tearing" or "aeration" that might be noticable if the crank is running in oil that might be more noticeable in some engines?
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I'd hate to think of any modern engine that has a crank low enough to "dip" into the sump. Without a windage tray you can get excessive oil on the crank but it shouldnt aerate, just slows the crank down a bit. I could be wrong but you'd have to be a pretty dumb automotive engineer to produce an engine like that. Just my guess.

Glad to see this post resurface again. I found out later that the NEON engine is the only one left that runs the crank into the pan, or without a windage tray. The Northstar is doing just fine on the GC at the moment. The sluggishness went away and stayed away after the second oil change.
 
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Originally posted by zoomzoom:
speaking of difference betwwen GC and M1..If the thickness of GC over M1 10W-30 is to blame for power loss how would you explain this then?

M1 0W-40 produces more power then lighter weight GC 0W-30???

CASTROL SLX 0W-30 SYNTHETIC
RPM 3000 3500 4000 4500 5000
Ft-lb 262 290 301 293 272
HP 149 193 229 251 259
Maximum HP: 263.7 @ 4900rpm
Maximum Torque: 314.2 @ 3750rpm
Oil temp: 175FOil pressure: 43-55psi
Water temp: 186F

MOBIL 1 0W-40 SYNTHETIC
RPM 3000 3500 4000 4500 5000
Ft-lb 268 311 304 300 283
HP 152 207 231 257 269
Maximum HP: 270.5 @ 4950rpm
Maximum Torque: 318.3 @ 3700rpm
Oil temp: 206F
Oil pressure: 52psi
Water temp: 190F


http://www.performanceoilnews.com/oils_against_oils.shtml


Has anybody noticed that the SLX produced the highest number and size of metal particles in oil filter in this study. What the ****?
 
No sluggishness with the switch in my 03 silverado's 5.3 or the wife's 03 Impala 3.8..As a matter of fact my truck seems a little more peppy since the switch.I'm happy so far..
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My 2001 5.3l Sierra ext cab 4x4 just turned over 60,000 kilometers (38k). I have logged every gas fill up since new, have used the following 5w-30 oils for a minimum of 3 oil changes each (close to 1 year each), GM, QS syn, RP syn and now GC 0w-30 in that order. The best mileage by a narrow victory is the german castrol. The other 3 oils were pretty consistant among the three. As far a sluggish, no, my seat of the pants meter doesn't register any different.
 
I am into the second change of GC in my Maxima and the only difference I thought I detected was a little engine noise. The prior oil was Chevron Supreme 10W30. Gas mileage has remainded the same and the engine doesn't "feel" any different. The engine is a 3.5 l V6.
 
I didn't really notice any difference in performance between GC and M1 in my 4Runner, but the fuel economy is less I'm sure. I don't think the engine is any quieter or any harder to start in the cold with GC either...
 
quote:

Originally posted by RobZ71LM7:

quote:

Originally posted by Idrinkmotoroil:

quote:

Originally posted by zoomzoom:
speaking of difference betwwen GC and M1..If the thickness of GC over M1 10W-30 is to blame for power loss how would you explain this then?

M1 0W-40 produces more power then lighter weight GC 0W-30???

CASTROL SLX 0W-30 SYNTHETIC
RPM 3000 3500 4000 4500 5000
Ft-lb 262 290 301 293 272
HP 149 193 229 251 259
Maximum HP: 263.7 @ 4900rpm
Maximum Torque: 314.2 @ 3750rpm
Oil temp: 175FOil pressure: 43-55psi
Water temp: 186F

MOBIL 1 0W-40 SYNTHETIC
RPM 3000 3500 4000 4500 5000
Ft-lb 268 311 304 300 283
HP 152 207 231 257 269
Maximum HP: 270.5 @ 4950rpm
Maximum Torque: 318.3 @ 3700rpm
Oil temp: 206F
Oil pressure: 52psi
Water temp: 190F


http://www.performanceoilnews.com/oils_against_oils.shtml


I cant comment on the HP tests, but it didnt surprise me to find them ranking Amsoil as #1 oil with the sponsorship clearly displayed.

The HP tests could likely be correct, I think it comes down to friction modifiction of the different oils. Royal Purple has often been listed as having positive effects on HP, there was a test in Hot Rod magazing a year or so ago where some muscle car gained a large amount of power after they swapped Royal Purple fluids in the engine and tranny and diff. I guess its possible if the friction levels are different.


Their test is non-scientific. Look at the difference in oil temps-a 31* difference. Factor in the variance in most dyno's and there you go.


I really don't know how you would do this test and have it work if you tried to normalize for oil temperature. Different oils do show large variances in oil temp with everything else remaining the same. What to do?
 
So far I think the GC has made my engine a bit more sluggish. I'm not touching it until 10k miles so I'll have to deal with it.
 
You've noticed a difference via the "butt dyno" versus the EP that you had in there?

I finally found 4 quarts of The Green today and I'm considering using it when I change the 10w30 EP in my '01 Infiniti. More out of curiosity than anything, as I really don't believe my particular Nissan V6 likes a thick 30 wt. My original plan was to use Mobil 1 0w30 with two qts. of GC-gold this winter. I've had good success with the 0w30 from Mobil 1 in the past.
 
Butt dyno with my sons Ford Focus ZTS 2.0 DOHC tells me a noticeable difference with GC, as well as a drop in MPG. I reported this a year or so ago. My Ford work V-8's and V-6's loved the stuff, with little if any noticeable change in performance or mpg, but the 2 liter 4 banger is another story
 
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