Tires will wear true when the whole of the contact patch is equally loaded. The factory suspension alignments actually include the ride height as part of the alignment numbers. Lowering the car puts it into a 'different' region in the suspension alignments issue. However, it is generally close enough that the factory alignment numbers are still a good starting pint. Springs and Anti-roll bars also influence the alignment settings since they control the amount of movement at a given corner in response to the weight transfer of forces being applied at the contact patch and the CoG. So, the only real way of sorting all this out is to find some way of measuring what is going on. This is where the probe tipped pyrometer comes in. The probe tip is important because tires cool off at a rapid rate (on the surface) so by jabbing the probe tip in a couple of mm you get an accurate indication of the loading on that part of the tire.
One can measure the contact patch loading by driving the car in a spirited manner and then using a probe tipped pyrometer to see if the contact patch is rather evenly loaded. Take three measurements of the contact patch at the outer edge, the center and the inner edge. And take measurements of all 4 tires (12 measurements in total)
If there is a straight line connecting all the measurements, then the tire is inflated to the correct pressure. If the center is high, so is the air pressure, and conversely when the center is low the tire is underinflated.
One uses camber to adjust the slope of the line from inner edge to outer edge. If the outside of the tire is running hot, add camber, if the inside edge is running hot, subtract some camber.
Caster only interacts with all of this by moving the pressure point of the contact patch towards the inside edge as steering is applied but before the car has rolled in the turn and the suspension deflects and the camber changes. So, just stick with the factory caster numbers unless you knowingly want some different steering feel.
Once you get camber correct, you can move the pressure point of the contact patch around using (very slight) changes in toe; which may want a slight change in air pressure (and round and round)
When set up correctly, you want the inner edge of the tire to run about 10dF hotter than the outer edge -- because the outer edge is being cooled by the onrush of ambient air (that does not hit the inner edge :: closed wheeled cars). If you can achieve this condition, the tires will run long and true -- at whatever suspension alignments, ride heights, and air pressures you have dialed in.
If you have gone to the trouble of lowering your car, and want it to perform correctly with good tire life, get a probe tipped pyrometer, learn how to use it, and become friends with a suspension alignement mechanic.