I have to go with the "idiot gauge" theory. If you're involved in commercial trucking or off-highway equipment, you EXPECT variations in oil pressure, oil temp, coolant temp, EGT, etc.
Problem is we have "educated" several generations of drivers, or "idiots," to believe that the needle MUST point at a certain range. Even Ford has perpetuated this with the Maurader, what a joke!
Oil pumps are not smooth providers of fluid, many have a slight "pulse" to them. The mechanical gauge in my old Ford always shows a +/- 5 psi bounce, sometimes more. You can watch the mechanical temp as the thermo cycles. Most idgits would run to the dealer and scream "somethings wrong! The needle is bouncing!"
My 2000 GMC the oil pressure gauge does move around, a bit, but I don't trust the temp gauge. It slowly climbs to an indicated 195 and NEVER goes higher. I'm trying to figure out a way of making a mechanical temp gauge work.
Guess how I first figured out factory temp gauges were Idiot Gauges? Drive with the A/C full blast in 100 heat for two hours. Immediatly stop, shut off, and walk into the diner for 25 minutes.
Go back to the car, start it up, and watch the gauge still at the exact "normal" mark. Hmmm. Ever hear of HOT SOAK???
I put Stewart Warner mechanical gauges in my 1984 Ford F-150 back in 1985, as the stock gauges acted up then quit. My oil pressure varies from 30 psi idle in Drive to 85 psi cold fast idle. Shut the truck off after hot high speed driving and with the 160 thermo, the gauge will slowly creep to 185 due to Hot Soak.
Oh, a "gotcha" in case you decide to put in a "real" oil pressure gauge: many fuel injection systems depend on that "on/off gauge" to determine whether to run the fuel pump. If you disconnect the factory sender and run a mechanical gauge, the PCM might decide there is no oil pressure and kill the fuel pump to "protect" the motor.