Oil Recommendations for a Nissan Titan

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I guess I've had a different experience with using synthetics in Nissans because I bought a 96 Maxima GLE new and as soon as I got it home I drained the oil out and put in Amsoil S2K 0W-30. Never had a consumption problem or anything else for the 45k miles I owned it.
 
Green Max has a point.

With a 6.5 qt. sump, quantity helps to overrule quality anyway.
 
Perhaps you didn't own it long enough to notice a problem. OTOH, why bother with Amsoil if you don't keep your cars very long?
 
I was an Amsoil dealer back then and had a lot of it in stock. Your suggestions and opinions have me thinking about the expense of synthetic if I don't really need it. I just may try the Chevron for a while with some oil samples to see how it does before I experiment with synthetic, if I do at all.
 
quote:

I would not experiment with M1 that early in the engine life. I've had 5 Nissans (2 trucks, 2 Maximas/Infiniti and a Sentra) and have noticed increased oil consumption if you switch to synthetic before 10k. If I were you, I would use a high quality 5W/10W-30 (Chevron Supreme, Pennzoil or GTX) every 3-4k until 10k. Even afterwards, I would think seriously whether synthetic oil is necessary or otherwise justified. [/QB]

Green Max,

You and I were thinking the same thing.

JetForeman,

Check out the maxima dot org UOA spreadsheet for more details.
 
JetForeman,
You could check with the dealer and see what they say about the use of synthetic oil in your Titan. And specify that you are not going to exceed the 7,500 mile OCI specified in the owner's manual. Personally I'd be very afraid to go 7,500 miles on a dino oil, even under the best of operating conditions
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. You could do a couple of early "cleaning" oil changes with dino, just to insure that you cleaned out all the assembly "crude". Do your first @ 1,000 miles and do the 2nd and 3rd @ 2,000-3,000 mile intervals using a quality dino. It's cheap to do. Then switch over to a quality synthetic after the 3rd dino "cleaning". Then you should easily be able to run 5,000-7,500 mile OCI's and maintain a healthy and long lived engine.

Whimsey
 
Since 1990, I have had about 8 Nissan products with the VQ, VD or VE V-6 engines (both turbo and non turbo) and have always switched to synthetics between 2000-3000 miles; at 1000 miles, I always changed the oil with dino and followed-up with synthetic per above. Never had any oil burning or consumption or engine issues on any of these vehcilces. Up until recently where I am trying Amsoil, I have always used M1 in either the 5w-30 or 10w-30 variety.

There are those that swear Nissan engines should be broken in on dino for 20k miles and those that do as I have done. To each their own.
 
BTW, the manuals I have had or have now say it is ok to use mineral or synthetic oils as long as they are API rated. Nissan does say not to mix the two though. I find it interesting that Nissan specifically mentions to use only dino in their new V-8. Are you sure it doesn't say somewhere that synthetics can also be used? Wonder why they would make this change as for the VQ used across the Nissan and Infiniti lines, they say it is ok to use either.
 
I'd look at oil analysis results from the Maxima and G35 V-6 engines. The design and metallurgy should be very similar ....

As for expected drains:

OCI(Amsoil) = (120)(15 mpg)(6.5)(330/305)

OCI = 12,700 miles

You will be able to conservatively run 12k drains with Amsoil in that motor, if you wish to go that
long ...
 
Just a reminder:

OCI Formula = (C*)(mpg)(sump-qts)(cubic inches/Hp)

Where C* is a constant that has been derived from 10 years of oil analysis data. For Amsoil, I use a C* of 120. For a petroleum oil, I generally use a C* of 40. Those of you are engineers may have noticed that the units don't cancel, so just use the numbers ....

Note: To use this formula for a diesel engine, I substitute ft-lbs of torque for Hp, since that is a better measure of diesel power. Chip tune a diesel pickup and the hp gain isn't much, but torque goes through the roof ....
 
Nice truck! I was impressed with the truck when I saw it at the auto show!

I would go with whatever brand you want. If it was me I would run the factory oil to 1500 miles then change it to Chevron Supreme 10-30. I would run that OCI to 3000 miles on oil then change to a synthetic 10-30. Then again you may decide you like the Chevron and don't need the synth after all.
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The synth will benefit you if you plan on keeping this truck past 100,000 miles.


Daily Drives:
-2003 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner XtraCab, Impulse Red, Peppy 2.7 Liter 4 Banger, Running Mobil1 Synthetics SS 5W-30.
ODO 6600 Miles.
-1995 Toyota 4-Runner, Evergreen, 3.0 V6, Running Mobil1 Synthetic SS 10W-30.
ODO 82600 Miles. (Switching to GC next)Nope sticking with M1.
http://community.webshots.com/user/amkeer
 
"If the manual says mineral, use mineral ... something to think about, consider this: Subaru recommends non-synthetic oil too."

I think these manufacturers (add Briggs & Stratton to this list as well) need to keep their remarks 'n recommendations to things they know something about ... like (hopefully) the machinery they build.
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Oil formulas change rapidly and these goofy recommendations/phrases aren't doing anything but adding to the confusion.
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My guess is that they are fearful of people using a "synthetic" oil and then leaving it in for thousands of miles past the recommended interval.

But that's a only guess ... and that's the problem. When these companies make foolish, nonsensical statements like "use mineral oil only," you can only guess what the issue really is.
rolleyes.gif


Most manufacturers will state drain intervals and say they apply equally to conventional and synthetic oils. This might not be 100% true but it's a lot more safe/responsible thing to say rather than asking consumers to second-guess oil formulations.
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JetForeman, I hope you have as much luck with your Nissan as Colin McRae is having with his Nissan pick-up right now in the Dakar Rally.
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--- Bror Jace

[ January 08, 2004, 12:24 PM: Message edited by: Bror Jace ]
 
I think Bror has a point here. If Nissan specifies mineral (dino) based oils only and a specified OCI, they have much more control over the recommended maintenance. Otherwise you may see in the manuals " For mineral based oil, 5000 mile changes are required. For Mobil 1, 10,000 mile oil changes are required. For Amsoil ...." The manufacture cannot guess what oil will be used, and with the widely variable OCIs recommended by synthetic oil manufactures, public confusion could lead to a problem. So Nissan is playing it safe by saying "use this oil and change it at that interval." All within the confines of the Magnuson-Moss act.

BTW - That new Titan is great! If I could afford it without a huge monthly payement, I'd be driving one right now.

[ January 08, 2004, 01:01 PM: Message edited by: crashz ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by Valk1500:
I like that truck, please stop me from going to my Nissan dealer!

Is that a 4X4?

I would go with the Chevron 10w30 also.


No it's a 2 wheel drive and don't go to your local Nissan dealer expecting to just drive one and leave in the vehicle you drove there..
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quote:

Originally posted by Amkeer:
Nice truck! I was impressed with the truck when I saw it at the auto show!

I would go with whatever brand you want. If it was me I would run the factory oil to 1500 miles then change it to Chevron Supreme 10-30. I would run that OCI to 3000 miles on oil then change to a synthetic 10-30. Then again you may decide you like the Chevron and don't need the synth after all.
dunno.gif
The synth will benefit you if you plan on keeping this truck past 100,000 miles.


Daily Drives:
-2003 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner XtraCab, Impulse Red, Peppy 2.7 Liter 4 Banger, Running Mobil1 Synthetics SS 5W-30.
ODO 6600 Miles.
-1995 Toyota 4-Runner, Evergreen, 3.0 V6, Running Mobil1 Synthetic SS 10W-30.
ODO 82600 Miles. (Switching to GC next)Nope sticking with M1.
http://community.webshots.com/user/amkeer


Wow, I just looked at the pictures of your truck and the cam pics. Nice and clean!!! If you go to the site I attached earlier at webshots go to PO cars and look at the pics I took of the old 86 Nissan I used to have, 257k miles with no leaks and didn't burn any oil. I gave it to my father in-law when I bought this new truck and he loves it. Also synthetics had never been used in that engine, only the cheapest 10W-30 that was available!!
 
That Tacoma is the replacement for a 1985 Toyota 4x4 Turbo Diesel truck. I bought that truck new when I was 18 and just retired it this past January! Yes I killed it but didn't kill it good enough. It lost compression in cylinder 3. A gentlemen bought it from me in Louisiana. He pulled the heads and discovered that the valve guide needed replaced!
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Everything else was within spec when he tore it down. So basically he just did the head. He picked up the truck for a steal at $2400. You couldn't purchase that truck before the compression issue for less than $5000. I paid $13,000.00 for it.

Breakdown of total cost in 18 years:

-Items that needed replaced outside of normal maintenance (not brakes, tires, etc..)
Fuel pump rebuild (Thanks EPA), starter and alternator $650

-Purchase price $13,000
-Taxes, interest, etc 3,300

Total $16,950
Minus what I sold it for -$2,400


Total cost over the 18 years $14,550

Divide $14,550 over the 18 years gives you $808 per year! Cheap!
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So basically the old vehicle paid for the new one!
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The oil used in that Turbo Diesel, 20-50 Castrol GTX the filter Fram.


Sorry for the OT response and rambling!
 
Start with M1 10W30 and test, The temps are so moderate in Ga. even with the winter temp dip that it would not make sense to get exotic just yet. 10W30 is ualy the best place to start. If this was my truck I would probably run Redline,Delvac, Motul or Pentosin 5W40 year round. I like the year round comprimise it provides. I am useing Redline 5W40 in Michigan and it has gotton down to 0F so far with no problems. If money was an object then I would proably resort to my old standby of M1 15W50 in the warm months and 10W30 dureing the cold months. I would of course do UOA with 10W30 then 15W50 just to establish this as an ideal routine!

While the vechile is under warranty I would follow their OCI. I would also never volanteer that I was useing a synthetic oil if ever their was a warranty issue. THey can not tell by looking and would not do the $400 dollar test to determin this unless they had reason to suspect it and wanted to get out of warranty repairs.

If you are the nervious type just order some Schaffers oils. Schaffers 10W30 would work great for you!
 
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