UOA for VW air cooled 1.6 sand rail

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Not the Autorx Frank

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Mar 2, 2003
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Location
So Cal
ENGINE---VW TYPE 1 1600 AS41

DISPLACEMENT---2275CC

CRANK---82MM SCAT FORGED

RODS---SCAT 5.5IN

PISTONS---CIMA-MAHLE 94MM

RINGS---TOTAL SEAL

CAM---WEB CAM #118

LIFTERS---SCAT LIGHTWEIGHT RACING

HEADS---MOFOCO 050 D PORT

COMPRESSION RATIO---8.3:1

ROCKER ARMS---1.25:1

IGNITION---MSD DIST, 6AL BOX LOCKED AT 24 DEG TOTAL ADVANCE

INDUCTION---TURBONETICS T-3-4 HYBYRD, WEBER 40 DCOE CARB, KN FILTER, 16#-20# BOOST

OTHER MODS---FULL FLOW FAN ASSIST, OIL COOLER, DEEP SUMP(6 QT TOTAL CAP)

BOSCH OIL FILTER


KENDAL GT-1 40WT OIL

FUEL---SUNOCO 110 OCTANE LEADED

70 TOTAL HRS ON UNIT

25 HRS ON OIL AND FILTER

DESCRIPTION--- 2 SEAT, LONG TRAVEL, MID ENGINE SAND RAIL 1180 POUNDS WET
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quote:
Originally posted by Not the Autorx Frank:
Any and all coments welcome!
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Click to expand...
Alright, I'll play...
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This is a pretty nice piece of machinery here

I take it that it's used as intended, as in full-out runnin' at high-rpm's across the sand?

Those lead numbers are pretty amazing?

I don't understand though...unless you are racing and must absolutely have the most power possible, why are you using 110 octane leaded gas. I say this because with the 8.3 compression ratio you mentioned, and with a turbo pushing 16-20lbs. of boost, you should actually be able to run a high-octane (92, 93, etc...) pump gas.

I do have issues with your oil and filter choices:

First off, I feel that in an application like this, you need to seriously consider running a high-quality synthetic 50-weight oil for maximum wear protection. Sump capacity is relatively low, oil temperature is very high, and use of turbo destroys oil pretty. I don't care for "racing oils" because of such low detergents (fine if you're are rebuilding often). Sure, there are many oils that will perform acceptably in this engine (especially on short change intervals), but I do recommend a high-quality synthetic 50-weight from companies like Amsoil, Redline, etc, etc...

Also, I seriously feel that you need to change your oil filter to a much higher-performance unit...at the bare minimum, a K&N oil filter, which has the best oil flow (which you need) of any widely available filter.

[ February 19, 2004, 02:23 AM: Message edited by: Jelly ]
 
I'm no expert but this looks really bad to me with only 25 hours on the oil??? Why are the wear metels through the roof?
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Additives look a little light on to me.

For the lead, and wear metal, looks like you keep it cool, start it, then stand on it.
 
Frank ,

Would you ask your friend if he started with a new engine case with this build ? There's only one place in the USA that can line bore these things properly or was in the past.... just curious . Also if you care to , ask if it uses a Hobbs switch . He'll know what it is .

Obviously the engine has had a sand seal installed , suggest replacing it yearly .The TS Rings are doing great sealing the large barrels that distort when hot and he's got a good oil filter there .

The static compression is actually pretty high for a turbo VW but not out of reason , suggest a plug reading if he has not already done so and up the octane if need be ... just depends on other things like if he uses a Hobbs switch , fuel pressure ect,ect . It's not out of kilter too bad or it would have grenaded by now ...saying the builder did a good job with this one .

Alot of this wear is valvetrain . I have some low cost suggestions for you to give him if you want that will give him lower valve train wear .

I was teethed on these and the Porsche engines early on ... brings back memories
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The last one I built for anyone was sand dragster with Autocraft cases , 30lbs boost and 450hp on a mild tune-up and ran the high 2's FWIW .

Thanks for the post and the memories recollection
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[ February 19, 2004, 08:17 AM: Message edited by: Motorbike ]
 
Neato analysis.

Obviously lead is from the fuel. At 20# boost, 110 octane is not such a bad idea. (Neither is the Hobbs switch). Just curious, though what kind of "fun" do you have with the carb at full boost? What do you use for boost "relief"?

The wear numbers? Maybe some break in still. It's an air cooled VW.....driven hard in the dirt.

Gonna try other oils?
 
I actually was posting this for a good friend of mine, As you can see he has a ton of money wrapped up in this motor. I suggested he get an analysis to get a read on how well his oil was holding up in an engine that probably cooks oil for lunch. Terry Dyson will be giving me his input also.

Any thoughts on another oil choice base on the numbers?

Motor--those low cost suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks

Frank
 
Aeroshell W100 Plus, an SAE 50 monograde with triphenyl phosphate AW and high dispersant level may work very well here. The AW add is very good at high temps and the lead handling is good also. This is a very good oil for turbo applications.
 
Thanks for posting. I used to drive air-cooled VWs but that was stock ones for economical transportation. I wonder what oil analysis would have looked like for a stock 53hp bus with 1960's Valvoline 30, no oil filter and leaded gas. Those engines were toast by 60,000 miles.

This oil report looks more like an aircraft than automotive one for several reasons.

aircooled horizontally opposed pushrod engine
25 hours on oil (usage not expressed in miles)
leaded gasoline
straight weight oil without a lot of additives

For those that think a multi-grade synthetic would be better, take a look at the aviation forum here and read about the problems with PAO oil and leaded gas. A 20W-50 semi-syn would work, but not necessarily better than straight 40 racing oil.
 
Man those specs bring back some memories. Anyways, to the poster that asked about 110 octane gas, you need it on this motor because it is air cooled. You are relying on the cooling capacity of an engine designed to put out 25 horsepower to cool an engine putting out 250-300 horsepower.

If it were my motor, I would be running Redline 50 weight race oil or 15w-50 street oil. Honestly, I would expect that this engine is seeing 300F plus oil temps.

Cary
 
RE 50W. In your application, yes. Red Line 50W Racing Oil will also flow better when cool vs the Kendall 40W mineral racing oil. With the temps in Southern Cal I don't believe this would be an issue. If I were your friend, I would call Red Line direct and talk to them. I am not totally onboard with their SAE oil yet, but I have had extensive experience with their racing oils, and if there is a better one, I have not seen it.
 
Frank: Yes, for an air-cooled engine which may see 350 degree CHTs and whose bores may expand .003"-.005" at operating temperature, viscosity is a lot more important. Besides, 50Ws flow just fine at socal temperatures.
 
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