So I used some today to clean the kettle, then I got thinking............. Why can't I use this stuff to clean radiators and cooling passages... in the car???
Anyone ever try this?
Anyone ever try this?
Flushing with CLR ( Calcium, Lime Rust Remover)?
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MolaKule
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What does it leave behind after flushing?
It might not be compatible with AF.
It might not be compatible with AF.
Thats an interesting thought, I would be interested in knowing whether or not it would be safe as well. Seems like it would, but like MolaKule stated, what would it leave behind?
If it did leave anything behind, could it be flushed out? Id also be wondering what if anything it would do to aluminum?
If it did leave anything behind, could it be flushed out? Id also be wondering what if anything it would do to aluminum?
Checked their web site... they have some faq where they advise not to use it in radiators....the MSDS says it is 68-74% water, 13-16% Glycolic acid(cas 79-14-1), 3-6% Sulfamic acid(cas 5349-14-6), 4-7% Disodium Capryloamphodipropionate (??)(cas 68815-55-4), 1-4% Ethylene Glycol n-Butyl Ether(111-76-2), and 1-4% Citric Acid(cas 77-92-9). Don't know how much it costs, but you are paying for a lot of water. Can't remember what glycolic acid is, but seems they try hard to use confusing names. Looked up glycolic acid...another name is hydroxy acidic acid. We used to use it to clean boilers mixed with formic acid....
I wondered the same some time ago, but it may even say on the back of the bottle, not to use on aluminum.
I think this was asked on here before (or perhaps a result from a google search), that a person or two tried it and it essentually eat through the thin aluminum core.
I ended up buying a new radiator because of the reports about expecting little more than ten years out of the plastic end tanks, for which mine already was (or so thought as I bought the car used...also noted a sealing problem on the upper hose connection).
The thing still seems like it might be running warm, so eventually I'll look into the condition of the water pump...perhaps when I get around to changing the main seals.
I think this was asked on here before (or perhaps a result from a google search), that a person or two tried it and it essentually eat through the thin aluminum core.
I ended up buying a new radiator because of the reports about expecting little more than ten years out of the plastic end tanks, for which mine already was (or so thought as I bought the car used...also noted a sealing problem on the upper hose connection).
The thing still seems like it might be running warm, so eventually I'll look into the condition of the water pump...perhaps when I get around to changing the main seals.
That stuff is to strong, about like useing HCl.
Last time I flushed out my Z28 I went around to all the auto parts stores and got as many different cleanters as I could.
I was mainly looking for raidiator flushes that had different chemicals in them.
I used them in order form what I thought was weakest to strongest.
Think I ended up useing 1 form wal-mart, one form auto zone and 2 from napa. Napa, by far sold the realy strong one.
The wal-mart one was weakest, it went in first and hardly cleaned any thing out.
Last time I flushed out my Z28 I went around to all the auto parts stores and got as many different cleanters as I could.
I was mainly looking for raidiator flushes that had different chemicals in them.
I used them in order form what I thought was weakest to strongest.
Think I ended up useing 1 form wal-mart, one form auto zone and 2 from napa. Napa, by far sold the realy strong one.
The wal-mart one was weakest, it went in first and hardly cleaned any thing out.
One reason that I keep changing coolant is to try to keep the freeze plugs from corroding and then leaking, something that has happened to a couple of friends with older vehicles. Lime Away or CLR or other products seem like they'd increase the potential for the problem. If the water passages are covered in scale I guess you gotta get it out, but be careful on this one.
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