Green Vs. Red vs. yellow?

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I've been hearing horror stories bout dexcool antifreeze when it comes in contact with air in the system causing sludge. I also hear that if it's mixed with green antifreeze it becomes acidic and will kill the gaskets. Anyone have any good bad experience? From all that I hear.. I was thinkin of flushing it out and changing to green.. but then there's that new prestone yellow that can mix with both !!! What gives bout that ?

[ October 22, 2004, 05:44 PM: Message edited by: rugerman1 ]
 
I'd do a really good flushing with Zerex cleaner or Prestone and then fill with Zerex G-05

it is what I chose
 
drifter420, if you check the ingredients on the reformulated standard Prestone (and ST, too) against those of Prestone's own fully licensed and GM Approved DEX-COOL, they're all exactly the same. These fluids differ from the commonly reviled (unjustly in my opinion) Havoline/Mr. Goodwrench DEX-COOL fluid slightly in the corrosion inhibitor makeup. Whether this slight difference results in any performance difference over the Havoline/Mr. Goodwrench fluids is unknown. (they're all "OAT" fluids, and use at least one common organic acid radical) The only differences, though, between the standard Prestone and ST fluids and Prestone's DEX-COOL are the dye color (flourescent green for standard Prestone and ST, orange for Prestone's DEX-COOL) and the licensing fee Prestone paid GM to use the "DEX-COOL" copyrighted trademark. As to the rumor that mixing DEX-COOL with older (and largely unavailable, now) silicate-based conventional green fluids causes dire chemistry incompatibilities, all I can say is that Havoline's own remarks indicate that mixing DEX-COOL with conventional "green" merely results in the loss of DEX-COOL's extended life properties to the shorter 2-year working life of the conventional fluid. Prestone and ST give the same advice for their new extended life reformulated fluids, too, as well as the Prestone DEX-COOL fluid. For myself, I've had excellent long-term service with Havoline DEX-COOL in a '96 Accord and the factory-fill DEX-COOL in a '00 Cavalier, though I just flushed and refilled with ST extended life in my '03 Sonata. I'm of the opinion that the majority of drivers put cooling system maintenance in the same class as taking out the garbage - something they'd rather not deal with, even to merely routinely checking the fluid level in the radiator (NOT the overflow bottle!). Compounded by the all-too-frequent assumption that "extended life" means they don't even have to check the cooling system's level for five years, these owners find it easier to blame the brand of coolant instead of their own indifference when the inevitable cooling system troubles arise. (Apparently this type of psyche is oblivious to the common sense metaphor, "Trust in the Lord, but keep your powder dry.") Certain GM engines are known to have gasket and radiator cap problems, too - even to the extent that GM has repaired them out of warranty when the owners were persistant. But, presuming you're an enlightened BITOG memeber without one of the suspect vehicles and who stays on top of things, then, if you're still really nervous about DEX-COOL, just go with a "HOAT" G-05 fluid so you can sleep at night.

[ October 13, 2004, 11:54 AM: Message edited by: Ray H ]
 
kewl.. so it's ok then? My next question is that I heard for a flush.. its best to get a shope with some pressure wash style machine that cleans it up then just drain and fill. I was at the local WAlmart in Toronto Canada and couldn't find anythin that is for radiator flush. any idea on where I can get some of this? I also heard it's bad to drain the anti freeze into the ground or sewage.. where would you guys send it to? Next question is is it safe to flush with normal tap water? And not with de-ionized water? Last question.. how would we go around flushing? Is there multiple flush required?? Any walk thru for the noobie like me? Thanx
 
NEVER dump antifreeze on the ground, which would include septic systems. The stuff's very toxic. As it leeches into the water table... Some communities allow dumping antifreeze solution into the sanitary sewer system that feeds to a sewage treatment facility, some don't. (the principle ingredient in common antifreeze products is ethylene glycol which IS biodegradable at sewage treatment facilities) Also, don't confuse the sanitary sewer system with storm drains - they're different systems. Storm drains empty into rivers so you don't want to contaminate waterways with untreated hazardous waste, either. If your community forbids dumping antifreeze into the toilet to be flushed into its sanitary sewage system, you'll need to harvest the first several flushes for delivery to a hazardous waste collection center. Direct your research about the use of distilled or de-ionized water to this thread. Direct your attention to my second post in this thread for a walk through. Hope this helps.
 
Thanx Ray..
I think however that my rad may have sediments as when I took the rad cap off.. I can see some sludge like film on it. Where would I go to get chemically flush solutions?
 
Generally, wherever Prestone products are sold - the company markets several effective cleaners and flushes widely. It's also possible that the "sludge-film" you noted is the harmless byproduct of chemical pellets some automakers use(d) during build. There've been posts here about GM in particular. Nevertheless, if you're concerned, by all means use a commercial flush/cleaner during your cooling system maintenance. Did you manage to lasso one of the perenially unavailable WallyWorld employees in the auto department to verify whether they carried any cooling system flush products? I'd be surprised to learn that Canada has a ban on such products, so try a K-mart, NAPA, etc., too. If your ride isn't losing coolant, and your radiator cap and thermostat are good, you should be able to whip that puppy into shape before the really cold Canadian winter sets in.

[ October 16, 2004, 10:41 AM: Message edited by: Ray H ]
 
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