2002 6.6L Duramax Delo 400 15W40 5,750/92,870

[Joshua B.]

3,100 miles of the 5,750 were towing ~7,500 lbs. car trailer from MI to ME and back, though mountains of Vermont. A few hundred towing pontoon boat, and lighter loads. Miles were accumulated in 6 weeks, with 3,100 accumulating in 8 days. 50-100'F ambient temp.

I would like to get some feedback on the condition of the engine, and possibily of extending the drain interval. I would like the truck to run another 100k+.

Lab used was Michigan Caterpillar ($13.50). Next sample will be via another company to include a TBN.

Thanks!

Iron: 10
Chromium: 0
Lead: 1
Copper: 1
Tin : 0
Aluminum: 3
Silicon: 8
Sodium: 2
Potassium: 1
Moly: 191
Fuel: NEG
Water: NEG
Glycol: Neg
% Allow Soot: 7
% Allow Oxidation: 29
% Allow Sulfur: 12
% Allow NTRATN: 41

 

[md_lucky_13]

Don't understand what they mean by % allow soot?

But other then that.. Numbers look pretty good. Silicon is marginably high for being on the highway. Might need to replace the air filter.

If you want another 100k, then it is time to invest in a high quality bypass filter.

 

[1040 WreckerMan]

These are very good numbers, check out some similar Duramax UOA's just below this thread.

I'm going to assume (now I've done it) that anything that isn't listed was 0? If you are not going to change you driving habits, this UOA would indicate to me that you can run 10K OCI comfortably, probably more. I might go to 8K next time and do another UOA, assuming the TBN retention is good with this oil. Was the oil changed when this sample was taken?

Iron seems a bit high for only 5700 miles in this OCI, but I wouldn't be concered with 10ppm.

7% soot is VERY high for an electronic engine, I think 3-4% soot is what I'd limit a medium duty engine at. What did the soot actually measure since I have to believe that the 7% is their limit before flagging a problem?

What oil were you running? Very nice numbers though.

 

[Joshua B.]

I don't understand the % either. I was thinking that 100% might be some threshold that you should stay under. The evaluation/recommendation states: normal results, resample at next service interval.

The filter minder by the airbox moved to 75% remaining, so I replaced it with a napa gold (wix) air filter the other day. The minder might be off though since the truck is chipped an extra 60 rear wheel horsepower.

I listed every value CAT includes on their report. Maybe it is $13 for a reason. I will go with AV Lube next sample.

A bypass filter? From what I hear this engine typically lasts a long long time, and will likely outlive the body.

Oil was Chevron Delo 400 15W40 non-synthetic and AC Delco oil filter and it was changed at this sample. Next change will use a napa gold/wix oil filter and same oil.

Thanks for all the input.

 

[md_lucky_13]

There is no question that a high quality diesel engine is going to last a long time..

The first overhaul on my truck is 350,000 miles.. But a bypass filter is still worth the investment in my opinion.

Its as simple as this: If you are going to keep the truck to XXX,XXX miles, then what condition do you want the engine in when it reaches that mileage? Worn out, or ready to go another round?

Chip is probably the cause of the extra soot, although there are documented cases with the injectors on the Duramax.. Not to scare you, but something to consider.. (especially if it is an LB7)

 

[Joshua B.]

How much $ are we talking for this setup? I have alread acquired 2 cases of the wix oil filters at an excellent price.

The chip is set to level 2 of 5, and there are much stronger programmers out there for the duramax. If soot is a concern with this small boost in power than i'd hate to see an oil analysis from some of the big shooters!

The injectors were replaced at 79,xxx miles under warranty (it is an LB7). The truck doesn't show any signs of problems (rough idle, poor fuel mileage, smoke at idle, diesel in crancase etc.).

-Josh

 

[1040 WreckerMan]

It sounds like you are running an Edge chip, and unless the low boost fueling is turned up I doubt that the chips is increasing the soot loading in the oil by any measurable amount.

A bypass filter is a great idea, but not a necessity IMO. That engine will go 250K pretty easy with a little TLC. With a bypass filter the body will fall off before the engine wears out. There are several different bypass filters that you could install and price varies quite a bit between brands. The Motor Guard being one of the most inexpensive and the Amsoil being one of the more expensive.

Since the UOA didn't show any fuel in the sample I'd say your injectors are probably ok. Most of the injectors that were replaced on the LB7's did not fail again like the OEM injectors. At least not prematurely.

Without something to quantify what the allow soot 7% means, it's basically useless. There would have to be a noticeable problem with that engine to produce that much soot with mostly highway miles in only 5700 miles. This UOA is really only good for bearing wear metal observation. Also, 1 UOA isn't really enough to get an good idea of how the engine is wearing. Several UOA's over the course of a year will give a better idea. I would definitely get another one.

If you really do want to extend your OCI, I would say run the Delo for 7500 miles and take a sample again. If the UOA comes back with good results, then go out to 10K and re-evaluate. Delo 40 in a Duramax should go 10K without a problem, and your UOA does support that.

 

[Jim Allen]

A comment for MD Lucky 13- I'm running a 35 year old tractor (bought thirdhand) with 8100 hours (about 500,000 miles). It hasn't been particularly well cared for ("until now," he said pompously!) and used a fairly inexpensive straight 30wt dino most of its life (15W-40 dino now), and Fleetgard or IHC filters (now Wix). There are a lot of great oils and filters out there but some of the lower priced oils and filters are good enough in many applications to bring the engine along far enough to meet or exceed the useful life of the rest of the unit. My tractor is practically falling apart around the engine... clutch and trans linkages worn out and loose as geese, front end wobbly, etc. I acknowledge the warm feeling of buying the "best," cost-no-object oil and pouring that golden elixir into the crankcase, but in many sapplications, its simply overkill IMHO.