'04 F250 6.0 PSD Schaeffer's Sup 9000 5W-40...14,883 miles on sample

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Oil was sampled, but not changed as I'm running a Motor Guard bypass oil filter. Wear numbers still look good IMO with 15K on the oil. Funny thing, my fuel dilution actually decreased from 1.5 to 1.0 from my last UOA. I must have done more stop and go driving on my previous UOA.

2004 F250 6.0 PSD
Miles on oil: 14,883
Miles on Truck: 100,123
Testing done by Oil Analyzers Inc.

Iron 14
Chromium 1
Lead 12
Copper 7
Tin 2
Aluminum 4
Nickel 0
Silver 0
Silicon 7
Boron 6
Sodium 2
Magnesium 93
Calcium 2504
Barium 0
Phosphorus 1047
Zinc 1469
Molybdenum 242
Titanim 0
Vandium 0
Potassium 0

Fuel: 1.0 %
Visc 100: 10.70
Water: 0
Soot/Solids: 0.01
Glycol: Negative
TBN: 8.13

Schaeffer's Supreme 9000 5W-40

Analysis Recommendations:
No corrective action required, Oil is suitable for continued use. Resample at next regular interval.
 
Still looking good. The jump in lead bears watching. Don't over dose on fuel adds.

You did a UOA of this same oil and this is the same oil at 15K:

7K Oil Analysis

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Tony,

I was unaware that fuel additives could cause a lead spike. I normally don't overdose on my diesel treat, but was curious as to how it could cause a lead spike?
 
Go Hogs,

This how it works on the 6.0L. You have fuel dilution with a fuel additive in it. That additive is not designed for bearings. So it starts cleaning/wearing off the outer layer quicker. Some diesel Fuel additives can be worse than others. Stick with Diesel Treat 2000 that you are using or FP-60. Normally you will see an increase in copper and lead. Now the other thing that can cause that problem is turbo bearings. High lead and copper are solid indicators. Now these turbo bearings are also affected by fuel additives in the oil. My explanation stinks, but the jist of the problems caused by some fuel additives is solid. There are a couple of big name fuel additives that I will not put in my tank. In many instances, I can look at wear and tell if they are using one of about 5 additives. Not perfect, but very close. As always, I send my UOA to Dyson Analysis for his read to make sure on anything. Keeps me from getting ulcers.


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Ok, makes sense now. I now see the importance of sticking with the recommended dosage and not going overboard. Fuel dilution w/diesel treat = diesel fuel w/small amount of diesel treat mixed in crank case
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quote:

There are a couple of big name fuel additives that I will not put in my tank. In many instances, I can look at wear and tell if they are using one of about 5 additives. Not perfect, but very close. As always, I send my UOA to Dyson Analysis for his read to make sure on anything. Keeps me from getting ulcers

I use the Fuel Power and the Racor conditioner/cetane improver.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=26;t=000256

I also have high fuel and low lead/copper. Is this consistant with your findings?
 
Your reading that I have seen are excellent on your lead and copper. And you are correct, both those additives are real good. Are you using the Biocide from Racor or their fuel additive?
 
Fuel conditioner/cetane improver. I find that the engines sounds smoother, feels "less rough" and I get a little better fuel economy using both, maybe .5-1L/100km. Which isn't much but I drive a lot so it pays for itself.
 
Nice reading Hog man. TBN is still very strong.

BTW: What ratio do you use with DT 2000? Also, do you use Bio-Diesel?

I think I'll use the standard 5 - 7.5K miles OCI during the winter, and 10K during the summer due to the fuel dilution issue with the 6.0L.

SalesRep: I too use Diesel Treat 2000. However, I suggest that Schaeffer sale a line of it in a lower mixing ratio. Instead of 1 gal/2000 gal fuel, make it 1 gal/1000 gal fuel. Also, sale it in 1 qt wide mouth bottles (i.e Diesel Kleen). It would make it much easier to mix and pour.
 
1oz. of DT2K treats 15.6 gallons of diesel (1 gallon jugs). The 16 oz. bottles of DT2K requires a double dose because it's not as concentrated as the gallon jugs (1 oz. treats roughly 8 gallons of diesel).

I don't use bio-diesel, but if I did DT2K would be unnecessary as bio-diesel (soybean diesel) will clean like crazy by itself.
 
You do need dt2000 if you run bio. Dt2000 has many other advantages other than just cleaning which bio nor #2 do not have.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Ken2:
Or Neutra Plus in the biodiesel...Neutra Plus is Neutra plus a cetane improver.


Ken


IIRC, BIOdiesel already has a high cetane comapared to the average pump #2 diesel, so therefore, using regular neautra instead of the cetane boosted version would be a better choice.

Hammer
 
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