Blackstone Report shows High Iron

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59 Vetteman,

Thanks for your quick reply. It certainly took a load off my mind. Now to answer your questions.
quote:

Originally posted by 59 Vetteman:
One question, have you done any work on the turbo such as adding a WW or anything else before the high iron started? Just curious.

I did add a ATS Ported Compressor Housing and a WW but I'm not sure what the iron levels were at that time. Even though I purchased the truck new and changed the oil every 5000 miles I didn't do the first oil analysis until 66,000 miles. Are you suggesting that those modifications could have something to do with the high iron levels?

quote:

Originally posted by 59 Vetteman:
I would send those analysis to Dyson Analysis for a read/interpretation. I think it would be money well spent. Being a 2000 engine, you may have some warranty left, but most Dealers will not do anything on an analysis report. That is why I recommend an expert interpretation. Just some leverage before your warranty expires.

I don't know Dyson Analysis. Do you have a link or address for them? I would surely spend the money for an expert interpretation, if only for my own satisfaction.

Thanks again for your help.

Y2KPSD
 
Y2K,

Go to this link: Dyson Analysis


When an engine is driven harder the iron will/can increase slightly, as in pulling a 5'th wheel or Trailer. This is normal. But in your case, adding a new turbo and WW, you have increased your boost levels from 19-22 PSI max boost to probably in the 32-40 PSI max boost range. (My guess from others that use this turbo and wheel.) That is not a bad thing, but a consideration when looking at results. Now that is the extent of my knowledge on this. Dyson Analysis can give you an in-depth read out. BUT be sure to give him the complete picture on Mods and boost and chip, if any and how you use the truck.

I hope this helps.
 
Something keeps bothering me about your analysis. First you went 5K miles and then you went 6.8K miles. Iron more than doubled and so did your silicon with just 1.8K more miles. Check your air cleaner. With that many miles on your truck, a silicon of 17 is notable. For the first 40K miles on a PSD, we always blame the silicon gaskets. But they should have leached by now. I suspect air cleaner or tubing connections and your use of 30 weight oil.

I wouldn't fall out of my chair on a 55 iron in 5K. But I would darn sure start looking. Your reading at 6.8K miles is a concern and not normal.

Sorry that I can't help you more, but I am an amateur on Interpretations. I do use Dyson analysis for my readings. So far he has kept me out of trouble on 2 PSD's.
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59 Vetteman,

quote:

Originally posted by 59 Vetteman:
Something keeps bothering me about your analysis. First you went 5K miles and then you went 6.8K miles. Iron more than doubled and so did your silicon with just 1.8K more miles. Check your air cleaner. With that many miles on your truck, a silicon of 17 is notable. For the first 40K miles on a PSD, we always blame the silicon gaskets. But they should have leached by now. I suspect air cleaner or tubing connections and your use of 30 weight oil.

I do have lots of other mods including a KN Free flowing Air Cleaner, aftermarket exhaust, TS Performance 4 position chip, yada, yada, yada.

I drive the truck hard. I've only towed my 5er a total of about 500 miles but they were hard miles. Otherwise I drive my truck like a sports car.

I'll contact Dyson first thing Monday morning. Thanks for the link. I'll keep you posted.

Y2KPSD
 
My last oil analysis from Blackstone shows the iron content has almost doubled since the last test. It went from an already high 57 to 103. The universal average is 17! In Oct.04 I switched to Amsoil Synthetic 5W30 because the iron was high hoping that would help. Now the iron content has almost doubled so today I've swithced back to Rotella T 15W40. I had 6800 miles on the Amsoil and felt very uncomfortable about running that extended period but was told that's "normal" with synthetic oil. Normally I change oil at 5000 miles. Now I intend to change oil every 3000 miles to see if it helps reduce the iron levels. Do you have any ideas or suggestions as to what the problem might be? Thanks for your help.

Here's a my Blackstone Report

Y2KPSD
 
I think you course of action is perfect. Changing back to a 15w40 and 3K changes. Do a UOA on each one.

Some PSD's just don't like 5W30 oil, synthetic or dino, for some reason. And your analysis proves that point. You may want to go to Shell 5W40 Synthetic for your winter months.

One question, have you done any work on the turbo such as adding a WW or anything else before the high iron started? Just curious.

I would send those analysis to Dyson Analysis for a read/interpetation. I think it would be money well spent. Being a 2000 engine, you may have some warranty left, but most Dealers will not do anything on an analysis report. That is why I recommend an expert interpetation. Just some leverage before your warranty expires.
 
To be honest I can't really read your linked report (logistic/tech issues on this loaner PC plus small image)

Anyhow - based on what I can read here - indeed something is going on. I'm not sure why you switched a modified truck that seems to like 40 weight oils to a 30 oil and then towed and drove hard. Which Amsoil 5W-30 did you use?

I wish I could see the Si, Sn, Pb, etc numbers. What was the viscosity number?
 
quote:

Originally posted by Pablo:
Anyhow - based on what I can read here - indeed something is going on. I'm not sure why you switched a modified truck that seems to like 40 weight oils to a 30 oil and then towed and drove hard. Which Amsoil 5W-30 did you use?

For the first 66,700 miles that I owned the truck, as I used Rotella T 15W40. It was only the last 6800 miles that I ran the Synthetic 5W30. I do not blame the oil for my high iron levels. I felt uncomfortable using Synthetic oil but did so because of the ease of winter starting. Unfortunately I chose the wrong weight oil, it's not the first mistake I've made and it probably won't be the last. BTW, I didn't tow or drive any harder after switching oils then I normally do.

I also think there is something else going on. Thanks for your input. Eventually I'll get to the bottom of this.

Y2KPSD
 
SI-14, SN-2, PB-7, FE-103, CU-8 TBN-8.5, Insol.5 (soot, not unusual from a heavy modded truck), VIS-64.4, 74K miles on the truck.
 
The other numbers don't look too bad for a big truck - and the oil didn't thicken out of control. This may truly be a case were the clearances and displacement/power require an SAE 40....but calling Terry in is the smart thing to do. Something else very well could be going on.

If you really wanted to use an SAE 30 I would have advised the Amsoil 10W-30 diesel oil - but generally my inexpensive favirite is the Amsoil 15W-40 for the big boys and the 5W-30 HDD for smaller car diesels.
 
You are seeing abnormal ring/cylinder wear, due to dirt ingestion and the problem is getting worse. Once you address this key issue, the iron and moly (from your rings) levels will drop back down, as will the bearing wear....

Most of this damage is done as the dirt travels through your intake system, so more frequent lube changes won't really help.
 
Well, even though the iron is higher, it certainly doesn't fall into the severe wear category. It is not unusual to get high metal readings the first sample after changing from non-synthetic to synthetic, especially if you didn't flush before the change.

I have a friend who runs a number of Ford diesel vans. He has been using the AMSOIL HDD 5W-30 in them for many years--takes an oil sample quarterly, uses bypass system, and changes filters and/or oil based on analysis.
 
Y2KPSD, i do not believe 5w30 belongs in a psd. even if it is a hdd oil. if you need cold weather pefromance just use the 5-40 rotella synthetic when its cold. i know it is not the real groupIV stuff but thats ok. psd and long drains do not seam to work very well for many people. just my 2cents.
 
quote:

Originally posted by eddyzima:
Y2KPSD, i do not believe 5w30 belongs in a psd. even if it is a hdd oil. if you need cold weather performance just use the 5-40 Rotella synthetic when its cold.

eddyzima,
You are indeed correct. I goofed when I used 5w30, I should have used 5w40 right from the git-go. But in all fairness, the iron levels were high before I switched to synthetic and only got worse after doing so and as I said before, I'm not badmouthing synthetic oil. I just had to have my oil pan replaced because it was so badly rusted! Could this have contributed to the high iron levels?

quote:

Originally posted by TooSlick:
You are seeing abnormal ring/cylinder wear, due to dirt ingestion and the problem is getting worse.

If this is indeed true could my KN cone filter be the culprit? I've heard that they are not the best filters around. Should I be using something else?

Y2KPSD
 
Too many variables. A change from dino to synthetic, change in viscosity, change of oil pan… The silicon could be from the new pan seal, the iron could be from the new pan or you may be ingesting dirt through the K&N (I noticed a marked increase in silicone moving to Florida with all of the fine sand here with a K&N, this was not a problem in California).

I would recommend changing to a paper cone filter (I’m sure the board here can find the right size to replace the K&N) and run a short change interval to ‘flush’ the engine and then start checking UOA’s.
 
It sounds like all the road salt used in "Up State", New York is corroding internal as well as external engine parts. Or the threads of the drain plug or dipstick tube could simply be shedding bits of rust and some got in the sample bottle.

I don't think the K&N is helping things - note the bump in silicon - but the chrome and nickel levels are reasonable. So it doesn't look like you are abnormally abrading the intake/exhaust valves and guides.

An oiled foam wrap, pre-filter over the K&N may do the trick.
 
XS650,

I'd certainly agree, but we're trying to make lemonade out of lemons here...
wink.gif


Where you live, the K&N is most useful in panning for gold.
smile.gif
 
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