Welcome Robbie,
The problems with this engine aren't about soot or filtration. The high chrome and iron are about sticking upper piston rings. The wear metal numbers have been consistant regardless of oil used (Rotella T 5w40, AMSOIL 15w40, AMSOIL 5w30 HDD), bypass filtration (I had an oilguard on for the Rotella T and early 15w40 numbers and removed it before these 5w30 numbers were collected), engine flushes (I used AMSOIL's flush in between the Rotella/15w40, and the 15w40 and 5w30), injector flush (two cans of Lubro Moly injector cleaner before these 5w30 numbers), or fuel additives (Stanadyne for the Rotella and 15w40, AMSOIL fuel modifier and cetane boost for these numbers).
The history with these engines says we gotta either tear them down and scrape the ring lands, or get a chemical into the upper engine and soak them free. I've just completed an upper engine chemical cleaning that *should* take care of it...the next analysis should tell.
The EGR and intake manifold is clean - I had to do that shortly after buying the car. I've adjusted the computer settings and the EGR isn't a factor in these numbers. Ya can't recirculate exhaust if you keep the valve shut...
'Eating Soot': Most soot is smaller than 1 micron and won't be collected in meaningful amounts in a full-flow filter. You'll collect more in a bypass filter, but still in smaller quantities. Unless... A function of one of the additives in a diesel oil package, and a function of the LC, is to make soot particles stick together until they get large enough to become trapped in a filter. Since I know that mine isn't a soot problem, I'll stay clear of oil additives and modified filter change rates.
20 miles on the new oil...is it too early to pull a sample?
The problems with this engine aren't about soot or filtration. The high chrome and iron are about sticking upper piston rings. The wear metal numbers have been consistant regardless of oil used (Rotella T 5w40, AMSOIL 15w40, AMSOIL 5w30 HDD), bypass filtration (I had an oilguard on for the Rotella T and early 15w40 numbers and removed it before these 5w30 numbers were collected), engine flushes (I used AMSOIL's flush in between the Rotella/15w40, and the 15w40 and 5w30), injector flush (two cans of Lubro Moly injector cleaner before these 5w30 numbers), or fuel additives (Stanadyne for the Rotella and 15w40, AMSOIL fuel modifier and cetane boost for these numbers).
The history with these engines says we gotta either tear them down and scrape the ring lands, or get a chemical into the upper engine and soak them free. I've just completed an upper engine chemical cleaning that *should* take care of it...the next analysis should tell.
The EGR and intake manifold is clean - I had to do that shortly after buying the car. I've adjusted the computer settings and the EGR isn't a factor in these numbers. Ya can't recirculate exhaust if you keep the valve shut...
'Eating Soot': Most soot is smaller than 1 micron and won't be collected in meaningful amounts in a full-flow filter. You'll collect more in a bypass filter, but still in smaller quantities. Unless... A function of one of the additives in a diesel oil package, and a function of the LC, is to make soot particles stick together until they get large enough to become trapped in a filter. Since I know that mine isn't a soot problem, I'll stay clear of oil additives and modified filter change rates.
20 miles on the new oil...is it too early to pull a sample?
