How long do ball joints and tie rod end last?

[PandaBear]

97 Integra with 176k miles.

Recently did a shock replacement and after some trouble (hand tool incompetent, won't clear spring with dust cover on, etc) and have firestone compress the spring for me. I got it back in one piece.

When I got the compressed spring/shock back together, it has dark greasy fluid (like used oil) on it. I wipe it off and install it on the car thinking that they are just installation lube. Would it be the shop mess it up? If it is messed up could it happen within a couple of hours?

Prior to new shocks I notice the steering is somewhat shaky (minor) when going freeway speed (65-85mph) and it got worse after the new shocks. I think it is the tie rod end and plan to replace it on both side.

Do tie rod and ball joint wear out at the same rate? If they usually die within 30k miles apart I would rather replace both right now and do the alignment all together (the tire place must be very angry when he spend 1 hr on a simple alignment).

 

[Clyde65]

The life of suspension parts entirely lies on the way you drive the vehicle. Hard cornering and not slowing down for bumps and dips will take their toll on your suspension.

A few questions:

Does your Accura have front struts or shocks? I would think that it would have struts since it is a FWD car.

If you do have struts, did Firestone install your old strut springs onto the new struts?

What is that accent you speak with?

 

[michaelc80]

As Clyde said, there are too many variables to make a guess as to how long your front end components will last.

With nearly 200K on the car common sense would dictate that it's probably time to replace some components. A competent shop or inspection can tell you for sure.

 

[PandaBear]

Integra (like civic, its cousin) has double wishbone spring over "shock" damper. It is technically strut but does not have the 2 bolt pattern that goes directly onto knuckle, but rather mount on the lower control arm directly (rear) or on a control fork over the lower control arm (front).

Firestone install one spring over one damper with old rubber cap (but new bushing that came with the damper) for me. I was able to install 3 others, but the spring compresser hand tool I rented/bought works with springs of larger diameter, and Honda's design of small diameter spring and a tight fit metal dust covers makes it real hard for me to put it together. I spend 2 days total replacing the back (2 hours) and front (10 hours), and bented the dust covers.

quote:

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I speak perfect English. She sell seashell by the seashore......

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I know, sometimes if I re-read my post I laugh at my own English too. Check out the "subtitle" humor video on youtube about the Iraqi insurgents.

 

[rpn453]

Could be ball joints, or maybe even tie-rod ends. Maybe a wheel/tire is just out of balance/round?

I think it's more likely that the ball joints need replacing than the tie-rod ends.

 

[surfstar]

If you plan on keeping the car for at least another 50k miles, I'd say replace them both. I replaced my lower control arms (ball joint and all new bushings included) and later the tie rod ends - none of the parts seemed to make a difference in the handling/driving of the car, but I plan on going over 250k miles on it and so replaced them at 170k (with new struts) as preventive maintenance as they should be wearing out by 200k miles.

If you DIY and shop around online, it shouldn't be hard to do.

 

[mechtech]

At that high mileage, you're due for tie rod ends and ball joints. Then, get your alignment.
For a quick check of the tie rod ends, have someone [car OFF] wiggle the steering wheel back and forth an inch or so rapidly, while you look and feel the outer joints. They should have no slop.

 

[eljefino]

with double wishbones you have two ball joints per side... so including the outer tie rod ends that's 6 things that can have slop.

What with the alignment afterwards you might as well do everything at once.

One test is to hold the castellated nut while someone pushes and pulls on the wheel/tire. (use STURDY jackstands!) If you feel the nut move AT ALL you've got slop in the system.

 

[toocrazy2yoo]

I think it must be kind of like a plane that's lost one engine..

The remaining engine should just about get you to the scene of the crash

And so it is with ball joints and tie rods.. One day you're driving around, the next day you're sitting there in the middle of an intersection with one broken wheel, sidewall down on the pavement.

Ball joints and tie rods ALWAYS get you to the scene of the crash...

 

[PandaBear]

quote:

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with double wishbones you have two ball joints per side... so including the outer tie rod ends that's 6 things that can have slop.

What with the alignment afterwards you might as well do everything at once.

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Well, the upper ball joints are sold only with the upper control arm ($110 ea) and they are not weight bearing, so I will just leave them as is as they wear out slower.

I "think" I know for sure the right side tie rod end is sloppy, as I turn the steering left/right quickly with my hand i hear ticking coming from the right front wheel, and vibration seems to come from right wheel and transfer to the steering at mid/high speed. Though it is minor, it worries me (I am one of those who can't tolerate precision related issues)

Inner tie rod is a bigger job and from what I know it last longer than outter tie rod. I will save that, the wheel bearings, and the upper ball joints for the 300k maintanence.

 

[johnd]

Vehicle weight has a lot to do with wear on these items. A Lincoln Continental will show lower control arm and ball joint wear quicker than a Mustang but they all wear out eventually.

 

[TooManyWheels]

Tie rod ends are easy to check. Find a way to compress them (pry bar, jack, etc). If they move more than about 1/32' they are ready for replacement.

Ball joints are checked roughly the same way, but the measuring is difficult with common tools, so I won't even go there.