Just randon stuff:
A given pair of O2 sensors rarely output the same voltage for a given amount of O2 in an exhaust stream. On a new pair of primary sensors the voltages are very close and your fuel trims are usually close as well. Age the sensors awhile and you have a dropoff of switching rates as well as output voltage. Your PCM/ECM compensates for this, hence your fuel trims. Some sensors age better than others. This is one cause of different fuel trims between banks.
Intake leaks (going to one bank or the other) cause different trims as well. This has not been a concern on any 4.6 I have worked on as the vac system runs into a common plenum and I have yet to run into a runner leak.
Check engine lights with one bank or the other coding lean: A surprising number of single bank lean codes are caused by a 1)common vac leak, 2)low fuel pressure, 3) bad MAF. Remember, one O2 is often "weaker" than another. Even though a sensor is within spec, a slowly developing vac leak or MAF concern will cause that weak O2 bank to code first. Swapping in a new sensor is a temp fix as the car will come back in later with a lean code for the other bank. Been there done that when I was a newb.
MAF: Rich trims at idle (-trims), lean trims (+) at cruise/acceleration usually mean a MAF concern. A bad fuel pressure reglator can mimic the rich at idle so check that out as well.
Hot cats: For a cat to get overheated you have to have two things, O2 and fuel. A misfire is a good way for this to happen, it is also the reason OBD2 systems have a missfire monitor-it saves the cats. Remember also, an O2 sensor reads a missfire as a lean condition (O2 sensors only measure the O2 in the exhaust) and compensates by adding even more fuel to that missfiring bank. Simply running rich will not cause a cat overheat, unless you have an AIR system. Rich condition and AIR injection= hot.
You said you had no long term data. I would pay attention to this as this is where you will notice a real problem. I usually select long/short term trim, O2 voltage(crosscounts if available),injector PW, and MAF voltage when going on a test drive and get recordings at idle/acceleration and cruise to look at. Many times a bad O2 will just go flatline for a few seconds (a "dropout")during a test drive.
Just looking at your readings, I don't really see anything that I would be unduly worried about. Your trims are still within an easily correctible range. The only thing that concerns me is your cat situation. I would verify I don't have a small missfire (check your ignition etc), if it is OBD2, get your missfire data as well during a drive.
I ramble too much.
