cheapo one-man brake bleeder

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JHZR2

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Hi,

Ive seen a cheap ($4 or so) one-man brake bleeder that is sold at any variety of auto parts stores. Around here, it is a cal-hawk brand item. It is just a clear tube with a little reservoir, with a cap that the tube goes through, which (might) have a check valve in it.

its a very small thing, no pressure, no suction, just a connect on item.

Has anyone used one of these? Do they work? Do they work well?

I have a motive bellder, but our toyota previa has a really wierd reservoir, which we cannot attach a normal motive attachment to, due to opening size, shape, location, etc.

So, any comments? Also, can you tell me how to use it properly?

Thanks very much,

JMH
 
Can't really comment on that item other than it probably won't work all by itself, ie: gravity bleed. I dunno. Now when you do a conventional 2-person bleed, it would probably serve to keep air from being sucked back in the caliper.

I'm surprised the Motive won't work, they have several adaptors, but then again there is always an exception. But even with a Motive, you should follow up with a 2 person bleed to get all/more air out of a system. Regular bleeding such as vacuum, pressure, or plain gravity doesn't always produce the necessary "jolt" that the system needs to purge the air. Having an assistant pump the pedal and produce high line pressure will though. You can't produce this pressure with a Motive or similar pressure bleeder because it not only pressurizes the lines, but also the resevoir/master cylinder junction. Too much pressure can blow the resevoir off the master cylinder, creating one unGodly mess. Pressurizing the system via the pedal is effectively "downstream" of the resevoir and won't transfer the pressure back because the master cylinder piston has closed this avenue off.

So, you may be stuck with the old 2 person method. But in the end, it may just work better.
 
Get a Cal-Van Brake Bleeder (Economy One Man), No. 247, for $2.99 at Tractor Supply. They have a "check valve" in them and I have used them for years. Better than the inexpensive, non-bladder pressure bleeders, because they don't force air and moisture into the fresh brake fluid. They also are more useful, because they can be used on all brake and hydraulic clutch systems. Additionally, they don't require and waste as much fluid as pressure bleeders. One person can bleed a complete car in 45 minutes. Less is more.
 
couldnt find it at the local tractor supply. Workers there didnt know if it either.

I found something I believe to be similar at advance auto. It was an ampro brand one-man brake bleeder, that was essentially a clear tube, going to a small bottle where the cap has the inlet tube and a tube going to the bottom of the bottle itself.

I opened the package slightly and blew on the cap... no check valve in it. Its designed to be located above the bleeder valve, so that air cant go back in.

Id like one with a check valve too, however.

Thanks.

JMH
 
Here's a way to make your own One-Man Bleeder. Take a 14" piece of 1/8" I.D. clear tubing (Tygon Fuel & Oil Tubing is best), screw a bolt into the end of it, and take an X-Acto knife and cut a 1/2" slit in the tubing, just above the end of the bolt. Insert in a 20 oz. clear Coke bottle, partially filled with brake fluid, and you are good-to-go. You can get Tygon tubing at your local model airplane hobby shop.

Note: Call Cal-Van at 800-537-1077 and they can give you the name of the closest local distributor for their One-Man Bleeder, No. 247.

[ July 28, 2005, 10:09 AM: Message edited by: TxGreaseMonkey ]
 
on another note, I just found that motive products now has a GM adapter... so I can pressure bleed my system now!

Im happy about that, makes things much easier regardless...

Tx: any insight for or against pressure (or for that matter vacuum) bleeding? The ont thing I had read against the pedal / one man system we have been discussing, is that it allows the master cylinder to move too far, resulting in the displacement of debris, harming of seals, etc.

Thanks for your help, Im going to try and locate this item so that we can do our toyota, which has a really odd reservoir top.

JMH
 
You avoid damage to the master cylinder by using your hand to gently push the pedal in. Don't bottom out the pedal. Make sure you get a battery squeeze bulb and suck out the contaminated fluid in the master cylinder reservoir first. Then refill it with fresh brake fluid and secure the top, before beginning to bleed the system.

If you are concerned about doing any damage, a "gravity bleed" is the most gentle way of bleeding a brake system. Still, I LOVE my Cal-Van Brake Bleeder. Next to the tooth brush, it's one of the great inventions I have seen.
 
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