CV Joint Boots Crack Quick Fix?

[626LX2.0LATX1998]

I see cracks developing on my front CV joint boots, particularly at the folds.

Cracks are minute but they can get bigger. Is there something I can do to prevent the tear from widening? Like putting duct tape or something lol...

I heard changing the boots are pain in the *** so I am just trying to prevent it from tearing.

 

[XS650]

If they are cracking, the rubber is shot. Patching them would be like putting lipstick on a pig.

 

[rpn453]

There's nothing you can do to fix them, but they can be quickly replaced with those quick-fix boots if necessary.

However, my friend's boots have been cracked for at least 3 years on her '93 Mazda MX-6. That was when she had her car into the dealer and they recommended changing them. The cracks have been very deep (as in: I didn't even think the rubber was that thick!) for the last year and a half (first time I saw them), but still haven't gone through. We just check it every oil change. It's obvious when they crack through because the cracks become moist with grease. That's the point that I've changed other CV boots and that's when I plan on doing hers. I don't think they'll completely fail on you if you keep an eye on it.

I check CV boots at every oil change.

 

[Blue99]

quote:

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...Patching them would be like putting lipstick on a pig.

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LOL - That cracks me up!

And, no, I don't need to hear the rest of the saying/story!

 

[road_rascal]

I think those quick fix boots are a waste of time and money. I tried that route years ago on an old Plymouth Reliant K car. It was much easier to get a rebuilt half shaft and install that than to screw around trying to get the quick boot to fit properly.

 

[Quest]

Rebuilt CV shaft is about 80~120$ each side, the re-and-re is about 1 hr max (typical shop charge).

If you are competent in tacking CV boot, the re-n-re time is about 1.5hrs and the cost of a replacement boot kit is about 12$. I've done over 40+ boot replacement and it's like a charm, so long as you have the knowhow.

Unless you are going to knock the outer CV joint out to replace the boot, otherwise, make sure you purchase the inner CV boot kit so that they can be replaced together while you have the shaft out.

 

[Tosh]

Right, CV boots are pretty satisfying to replace yourself, but some cars are way harder than others for various reasons. Find out which one yours is. (I remember my stingy uncle and his Renault 'Hardcore': you were supposed to stretch the small end of the boot over the halfshaft with a special cone....)
Quest: Do you really think the inner boots 'need' changing as well?
In a vain effort to keep mine from failing, every year or so I goop them up with vinyl/rubber protectant. But then, I think I might have a disorder....

 

[bulwnkl]

I'll let you know whether the silicone I put on my slightly-cracked boot yesterday holds or not...

 

[Quest]

Tosh-

Yes, I serviced all the CeeVee boots on all my cars + friend's cars and frankly, I do not see why not replacing the inner CeeVee boots when you already have the shaft off the car? (anohter 15 mins of work will save you a bundle down the road).

Also: I do not see the need for vinyl lubricant or Armouraull or similar. CeeVee boots die from the following:

(1) gradual material deterioriation: all synthetic rubber CeeVee boots will swell the moment they come into contact with hydrocarbon lubricant (CeeVee grease). To me this is a sure sign that eventually, all boots will fail

(2)aging: road debris, exposure to ground ozone, etc. all contributes to the aging process of these rubber boots

(3)heat cycles introduced by the grease inside the joint: remember that aside from confining the grease inside the boot so as to prohibits it from coming into outside contamination, one of the things the CVjoint/CV boot does is that during the use, the CV joint dies generates some heat and got carried away by the internal flowing grease. While this can be dissipated by the boot (limited amount of course, given the fact that the boot itself is made of thermal insulating material), the rest of the metal body of the joint helps in dissipating the heat as well.

The longest CeeVee joint I've seen lasted 13 years before the cracks took the best of it (still holds grease and not tear-through). The worst CV boot I've seen lasted 1.5 yrs...due to solvent attack

 

[Ken4]

I believe it also depends on the number of full-lock turns you make each day. Over here, there is an abundance of multi-story carparks, and finding an available lot on the very top floor is not uncommon. Typically my CV boots last only 2 years or 25,000km.

 

[labman]

Thanks for the update. Could have been a defect or road damage. In that case, a repair could make sense.

 

[surfstar]

if you do need to replace it, and can DIY, get one from autozone or kragen with a lifetime warranty and you can get a new one whenever the boot fails. and the price is less that what a shop would charge for the part.

 

[mechtech]

Since the cracks are warning you about an incipient failure, you can plan [on your own time frame] to replace them.

 

[bulwnkl]

Just thought I'd update: The silicone I put on my cracked CV boot is holding fine. It's only been a few hundred miles (commuter car), but no troubles so far. The whole axle assembly is under 3 years and 20,000 miles old; don't know why the silly thing cracked...

 

[Tosh]

Mechtech: You mean a failure of just the boot itself, right?