When my car (2003 Toyota Echo with 17k miles on odo) climbs a steep hill, I often hear a faint clicking sound from the engine as it labors to accelerate uphill. I am guessing the sound is from the engine valves. Is it caused by lack of oil lubrication? Will an Accusump eliminate it?
What causes the clicking sound from engine during climbing?
- Thread starter sifan
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I can't say for sure about the clicking noise, but I can say for sure that an Accusump will do nothing for it. The Accusump is a preoiler, used for priming the oiling system prior to starting the engine to reduce startup wear. This is not what you need.
If the sound is valves, not the transmission, CV joints, fuel injectors, etc, you might want to try different brands of oil to see if any make a difference. This may also be a non-issue.
If the sound is valves, not the transmission, CV joints, fuel injectors, etc, you might want to try different brands of oil to see if any make a difference. This may also be a non-issue.
Are you sure its a clicking or kinda like marbles in a coffee can which would be detonation. Thats the only noise I know that alot of cars make on a hill during acceleration under load.
Besides functioning as a pre-oiler, an Accusump is designed mainly to provide constant oil pressure during hard corning. I brought up Accusump because I was thinking the engine might not picking up enough oil during incline. I am using Mobil 1 5W30 oil with oil viscosity recommended by Toyota.
Marbles in a can would make a pretty loud noise. When this clicking sound starts, I just ease up the gas pedal and it will go away. If I step on the gas pedal harder, the clicking sound persists and the car does not go any faster.
Yeah, detonation sounds a lot more like it. It's not as loud as marbles in a can would be. The sound is usually quite soft, but like a rapid, steady clicking or rattling noise. Try a tank of premium gas. If that makes it go away, you probably need to de-carbon your combustion chambers with Fuel Power, Techron, Redline SI-1 or some other good cleaner.
Unless the hill is unusually steep, in other words MUCH steeper than the typical 4 - 5% highway grades, I wouldn't expect oil pressure to be a problem. If the oil pan was at enough of an angle where the pickup tube for the pump was out of the oil, you'd hear a much more severe noise and would probably see an oil pressure light. Your engine might even be dead by now.
Unless the hill is unusually steep, in other words MUCH steeper than the typical 4 - 5% highway grades, I wouldn't expect oil pressure to be a problem. If the oil pan was at enough of an angle where the pickup tube for the pump was out of the oil, you'd hear a much more severe noise and would probably see an oil pressure light. Your engine might even be dead by now.
99% chance it has to be detonation. Most car manuals will tell you that very mild detonation on a hill is acceptable. Severe detonation on the other hand is harmful to pistons, head gaskets, etc. The load on an engine from going up a steep hill will make it prone to detonation so unless it is very bad I wouldn't worry about it. Most engines are supposed to have a knock sensor which should keep it within an acceptable range. If if really bothers you that much then try a higher grade of gasoline if you plan on driving roads which feature a lot of hills.
Agree with all the above. Keep your money (don't buy the accusump); and perhaps try a different brand or grade of gasoline.
yeah, sounds very much like detonation. Fuel Power might also be a cure.
sifan, I suspect Combustion Chamber deposits considering the engine design and mileage more than anything else. The worst thing you could do is add more octane and marginal fuel adds to that mix as it will cause increased deposits. I suggest treating the fuel with Fuel Power by LubeControl.com, Schaeffers #131, or Techron in concentrate form.
Another consideration is that the air filter is dirty and restricting air flow.
As you mention Accusump is for lateral loading issues not horizontal loads on the engine. Your oil flow is not the issue, assuming the engine is well maintained.
I would be happy to provide a oil analysis interpretation for you which may ID the specific issue.
see www.bobistheoilguy.com/terry.html
Let us know what you find.
Terry
Another consideration is that the air filter is dirty and restricting air flow.
As you mention Accusump is for lateral loading issues not horizontal loads on the engine. Your oil flow is not the issue, assuming the engine is well maintained.
I would be happy to provide a oil analysis interpretation for you which may ID the specific issue.
see www.bobistheoilguy.com/terry.html
Let us know what you find.
Terry
Probably not the case, but just to add...
My Mountaineer makes a fast clicking or tapping noise under load and from what I have been told it is a loose exhaust manifold or a problem with the EGR system.
My Mountaineer makes a fast clicking or tapping noise under load and from what I have been told it is a loose exhaust manifold or a problem with the EGR system.
detonation is also known as pinging and it very common.
Try earplugs...
What you are most likely hearing pinging. Since your car is OBD2 compliant, if it is excessive, the MIL will be on and/or you can determine the actual frequency with a scan tool.
You dont say how you are going upthe hill, wide open or mostly wide open? If so, the EGR is inoperative so combustion temps are climbing. If you are say mid throttle then the EGR should be actie and it may be you are close to setting a 'insufficient EGR flow' code.
A few things to look at:
If you have a failing thermostat or any impediment in the cooling system, cylinder head temps will suffer the most, and on an extreme moment (such as a climb) you will hear a ping
check the EGR for proper flow. the passages get carboned up such that proper pintle valve operation is impeded.
consider a cooler plug, or higher octane fuel or a combo of both
unless a scan tool shows you are running with a modified timing map due to knock, dont worry about it
You dont say how you are going upthe hill, wide open or mostly wide open? If so, the EGR is inoperative so combustion temps are climbing. If you are say mid throttle then the EGR should be actie and it may be you are close to setting a 'insufficient EGR flow' code.
A few things to look at:
If you have a failing thermostat or any impediment in the cooling system, cylinder head temps will suffer the most, and on an extreme moment (such as a climb) you will hear a ping
check the EGR for proper flow. the passages get carboned up such that proper pintle valve operation is impeded.
consider a cooler plug, or higher octane fuel or a combo of both
unless a scan tool shows you are running with a modified timing map due to knock, dont worry about it
At 17k; I would hope the engine is not carboned up. It's hardly broken in. Does it have an EGR system?
I climb a hill with mild throttle. I think it is equipped with an EGR valve. The gas is Chevron with 87 octane recommended by Toyota. The clicking sound becomes more frequent after I drained and replaced the coolant in the radiator last weekend. It is more noticeable in the hot afternoon even under normal acceleration than in the cool morning. Will there possibily be air boubles in the radiator with simple drain and refill? After refilling the radiator with fresh coolant I just put the radiator cap back and ran the engine to operating temperature.
Maybe I need to add another bottle of Techron. FP was supposed to arrive yesterday but did not. Will cleaning the throttle body help? Or maybe I got a bad tank of gas from Chevron?
I just put in a brand new stock air filter 2k miles ago. I used to do lots more local driving. Only recently I try to drive it more on highway. Could there be so much carbon deposits inside the engine with only 17k miles on odo? Prior switching to Chevron I had been using Mobil 87 octane gas.
Maybe I need to add another bottle of Techron. FP was supposed to arrive yesterday but did not. Will cleaning the throttle body help? Or maybe I got a bad tank of gas from Chevron?
I just put in a brand new stock air filter 2k miles ago. I used to do lots more local driving. Only recently I try to drive it more on highway. Could there be so much carbon deposits inside the engine with only 17k miles on odo? Prior switching to Chevron I had been using Mobil 87 octane gas.
By the way I had changed M1 5W30 oil every 3000 miles since new prior the installation of a Frantz oil bypass filter at 12k miles on odo. I can not wait to try the LC and FP and see if they do any good in cleaning the carbon deposits inside the engine.
A few possibilities: Water pump about to go, spark plugs /wires need replacing, carbon buildup in throttle body/ valves. Battery voltage should be around 12.6 V for a 12V battery otherwise I would have battery& alternator checked. Resistance of spark plug wires should be less than 10k ohms.
Seafoam has worked great for me in cleaning the throttle body and valves on my car. The way you apply it is to pull the PCV valve out of the valve cover and slowly feed in 1/4 bottle of the stuff at a time into PCV while running, turn off ignition & wait 5 minutes, then repeat if necessary. When there is excessive buildup of carbon in TB the TB isn't getting enough air and it will have higher-than-usual vacuum. You know that you are done applying Seafoam when it isn't as easily sucked into the PCV valve and you aren't getting alot of white smoke out the tail pipe. From experience, don't feed more than 1/4 bottle into your engine at a time otherwise when you turn off ignition then engine might have a mind of its own!
Seafoam has worked great for me in cleaning the throttle body and valves on my car. The way you apply it is to pull the PCV valve out of the valve cover and slowly feed in 1/4 bottle of the stuff at a time into PCV while running, turn off ignition & wait 5 minutes, then repeat if necessary. When there is excessive buildup of carbon in TB the TB isn't getting enough air and it will have higher-than-usual vacuum. You know that you are done applying Seafoam when it isn't as easily sucked into the PCV valve and you aren't getting alot of white smoke out the tail pipe. From experience, don't feed more than 1/4 bottle into your engine at a time otherwise when you turn off ignition then engine might have a mind of its own!
I replaced the original PCV valve with an OEM part at 11k miles on odo. Spraying throttle cleaner thru PCV valve is interesting to hear. I will try this method first since it is kind of hard to work on the throttle body directly in the cramp engine bay. Taking the throttle body off is a lot of work.
Where can you buy the Sea Foam? I bought a can of throttle body cleaner by BG from a Toyota dealer. It should work as well, right?
Where can you buy the Sea Foam? I bought a can of throttle body cleaner by BG from a Toyota dealer. It should work as well, right?
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