Jack adapter for pinch weld

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jan 17, 2003
Messages
3,462
Location
Coastal South Carolina
Roll under jacks will really bend the pinch weld frame located under the doors on cars.

anyideas on how to make a homemade jack adapter to keep from bending the pinch weld?
 
I've thought about cutting the top (the 'adaptor' part) off an OE jack and welding to the top plate of the jack.
dunno.gif


Dave
 
Use a hockey puck. Read about it somewhere, although, sometimes it seems a hockey puck wont be thick enough. You'll have to carve/cut a slot in the puck.

Summit sells something for this, though i don't remember the part number or what its called.
 
quote:

Originally posted by edwardh1:
Roll under jacks will really bend the pinch weld frame located under the doors on cars.

anyideas on how to make a homemade jack adapter to keep from bending the pinch weld?


I'v done it with a short length (about 1/2 foot) of good quality 2x4. The jack pad teeth dig into the 2X4 and the wood distributes the load along enough of the pinch weld that it doesn't damage the pinch weld.

A crappy 2x4 may split and other things may go wrong if you don't do it right, so be careful if you try it.
 
I was going to try to make an adapter myself until I found polyurethane jack pads and jackstand pads at Protech. They make some for pinch welds and are very sturdy.
 
quote XS650:
"I'v done it with a short length (about 1/2 foot) of good quality 2x4. The jack pad teeth dig into the 2X4 and the wood distributes the load along enough of the pinch weld that it doesn't damage the pinch weld...."

went a step further-realizing that a 2x4 will split along it's grain (think of your pinch weld like a axe), I sandwiched a 2x6 between two pieces of 1/2" plywood, then added two more 1x2's on one side with a channel to accept the pinch weld. it works ....
 
It's called a "uni-body adapter". It's made out a short piece of hollow tube steel (with a slit that the unibody fits into so that the sides of the uni-body rest on the top of the tube steel) welded perpendicular, underneath opposite the slitted top side, to a short piece of bar stock which in turn fits into the hole in the floor jack (left after lifting out the round piece the floor jack comes with).

Do a google on floor jack uni-body adapter.
 
I haven't had a problem jacking on my pinch welds.

I use the same cheap hydraulic jack most of you use, with the pivot arm that goes up in an arc and the hard metal wheels.

I make sure the wheels have a smooth surface to roll on, and I push the jack handle towards the undercarriage of the car just a bit as I also push down. The wheels (and the whole base of the jack) need to move as the jack pushes up, moreso as the arm nears the top of its travel.

The most I do is nick the paint, though I respect if you want to do even less damage than this.
 
My solution has been a grooved 4 x 4. There are screws inserted in all faces to help hold it together. It doesn't fit well on all my cars,

I'd rather have a better adapter.
 -
 
i would rather see the grove in the wood block perpendicular to the grain. with the grove parallel, i would be afraid of splitting the block. the nails would only help transfer the splitting into the block (compared to just splitting off the lip).
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top