Oil change on 2000 Toyota Avalon

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Hello,

I haven't posted in quite some time, but check in occasionally. I do my own oil changes in my Ford pick-up, but I've been sending the wife to the dealership to get her 2000 Toyota Avalon's oil changed. I'd like to start doing the changes myself on the Toyota and wanted to know of any tips or techniques about doing so. i.e. ramps, hydraulic jack or any unforeseen obstacles. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Jimmy
 
I do my own 99 Avalon.

I think ramps are a deathtrap especial with a front wheel drive car. I use a floor jack and jackstands.

According to the Service manual center of the front crossmember (part of the subframe) is the place to lift with your floor jack.

It recommends using jackstands with slotted blocks and use the standard tire jacking points for the jackstands. I don't have these type of jackstands and use a location behinded the tires slightly, attached to the subframe. There is a bright metal plate on each side about 1.5" x 4" and .25 thick bolted to the subframe. I put the stand between the 2 bolts on this plate being careful not to hit the brakeline next to it..

The oil filter is reached from the front top under the hood. It is under exhaust manifold which can be very very hot. Let it cool or use heat proof gloves.

They make a filter wrench especially for the small filters on these Toyotas. I find it really helps. Think I got mine at Toyota.

I have recently found that the japanese 90915-YZZB9 filter that I find at the Lexus dealer seems a better filter than the US made 08922-0211 filter I find at my Toyota deal. The dimensions of the 2 are the same.

put a thin film of oil on the filter gasket (lexus filter comes prelubed). Screw it on until gasket contacts the seat and then tighten an additional 3/4 turn (service manual spec).

Toyota sells a oil plug gasket that should be replace every so often if not every time.

If I remember drain plug is 14MM. Spec in service manual says to torque it to 45 N.m or 33 ft/lbs. I don't use a torque wrench, just do it by feel.

More than you wanted to know I'm sure.
 
Thanks for the info. It's exactly what I was looking for. I've never used ramps before, having had pick-ups my whole life, and was wondering if the ramps needed to have a more "gentle" incline due to the low bumper and front fascia of the car. I may take your advice and go with jack stands instead. Thank you.

Jimmy
 
My old metal ramps did not fit my 92 Grand Am. I made lower ones out of an oak 2X6. Works fine with no sliding or throwing like the steel ramps. They are only 5'' high, which is fine for oil changes. More serious projects require jack stands and the floor jack.
 
I do my own oil changes also. On my Tacoma 4x4 pickup you just have to crawl under but with our Corolla though there isn't the clearance offered for that. In the absence of homemade lower ramps I just place my hydraulic floor jack on the front frame extension and raise the car just far enough to allow for the drain pan and the room required to remove the plug. No need to have the vehicle on ramps and the oil drains better as everything is kept more level. Safety isn't really an issue either.
 
quote:

ramps needed to have a more "gentle" incline due to the low bumper and front fascia of the car.

The issue I had was the front drive tires trying to climb the ramps. They tended to slip and spin which made me worried the ramps would spin out from under the car, or the tires would grip and launch the car right over the ramps. Rear wheel drive wasn't as bad with drive wheels firmly on the ground. I gave away the ramps.
 
I had the same problem with metal ramps---I purchased a set of Rhino Ramps (Wal-Mart, PepBoys, etc sell them). They are lightweight and work nicely.
 
Have to agree with Curtis....Rhino ramps are the way to go....made from plastic but are very strong....use a torsion box construction.

My FWD cars have never slipped on these

George
 
The only issue I've had with rhino ramps sliding were due to my own fault. I had residual oil on the garage floor that hadn't been thoroughly cleaned, causing them to slide.

I find that putting sticky back sandpaper circles under the back of the ramps helps even more.
 
The only thing i'm going to add is that you change the oil plug gasket everytime you change the oil. I 've worked in a Toyota dealership parts/service and Toyota recomends you change the gaskets at every oil change.
 
Do most auto part stores carry the oil plug gasket or should I visit the Toyota dealer?
 
'Cause I thought they came together.
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The gasket on its own is about a buck.
 
Tommy2 My toyota cressida has 250,000 miles with 3000 mile oil changes on the orginal plug and gasket. No leaks. Over the years I have had more trouble when you change to a new gasket/washer than reusing what worked before.
If you have a leak then use a new gasket/washer.
 
180,000+ miles on the original plug gasket for an '89 Toyota pickup. No leaks at the plug, though the front main is finally starting to seep. (Think I should I go ahead and change the plug gasket?...
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)
 
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