MolaKule
Staff member
What are major differences between Engine/Transmission Assembly Lube and Grease?
Assembly Lube and Grease
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I'm just taking a stab at it but don't really know. Would the assembly lubes contain additives to a base lube that would plate/protect the softer metals? And after run-in, the lube would dissipate, leaving the plating? The grease wouldn't have these, just friction modifiers?
Patman
Staff member
I don't know the answer, but just thought I'd post a picture of MolaKule in action, thinking up our next Question of the Day.
Assembly Lube is soluable and will mix with the host oil and not plug your Full Flow filter. Assembly Grease has adhesive strength to stay put during break-in and used for cam lobes and lifters and bearings. It will usually dissapate with time.
I don't think that assembly lube uses any tackifiers or thickeners. such as lithium soap etc.
In my Honda Motorcycle Manual for my VFR, it tells you to use a 50/50 mixture of moly-fortified grease and oil as an "assembly lube" after removing the cams for a valve adjustment. An oil guy who works on small engines at the track uses the same for engine rebuilds.
I would be tempted to coat the bare metal with graphite first.
MolaKule
Staff member
Just remember, EVE was tempted too, and look what happened!
I`ve built maybe 25 engines in my life time, I have always used an assy lube with a very high molly base, Never had a failure! Never use STP. I`ve seen it work, But I`ve seen it cause trouble more often than not!!
MolaKule and Vetteman are on it!
MolaKule and Vetteman are on it!
MolaKule
Staff member
A quick and functional Assembly Lube can be made by mixing 75% Schaeffer's #132 and 25% Walmart (SuperTech Blue bottle) oil additive. You will have to heat both bottles in hot water before mixing.
I prefer an assembly lube that has about a 15 cSt viscosity and medium tack. Too many assembly lubes are just to thick and much too tacky.
I prefer an assembly lube that has about a 15 cSt viscosity and medium tack. Too many assembly lubes are just to thick and much too tacky.
MolaKule
Staff member
All good answers, but the prize goes to Vetteman. Where's that bucket of KFC?
Assembly lubes and greases are used to reduce galling and surface wear upon startup of new or rebuilt engines, because new parts have closer clearances than worn parts.
Assembly lubes are thick oils of > 25 cSt , and should have a high level of EP and AW additives that can quickly be "solved" in the host oil. These lubes are good for main and cam bearings, valve guides, and cylinder liners. Thinner lubes are often used for auto transmission rebuilds where the ATF can flush them and solve them after a short period of time.
Assembly greases are much thicker and about the consistency of 00 grade grease. As others have pointed out, these are used for tappet, lifters, and other high contact pressure areas.
A 50/50 mixture of moly-fortified grease and motor oil would also act as an EP agent for minor rebuilds or parts replacements.
Most builders prefer to change oil after rebuild or run-in in order to flush not only the assembly lubes or greases, but to remove casting materials and other elements that might be abrasive.
Patman, we'll have to modify the glasses and the tie a bit!
Assembly lubes and greases are used to reduce galling and surface wear upon startup of new or rebuilt engines, because new parts have closer clearances than worn parts.
Assembly lubes are thick oils of > 25 cSt , and should have a high level of EP and AW additives that can quickly be "solved" in the host oil. These lubes are good for main and cam bearings, valve guides, and cylinder liners. Thinner lubes are often used for auto transmission rebuilds where the ATF can flush them and solve them after a short period of time.
Assembly greases are much thicker and about the consistency of 00 grade grease. As others have pointed out, these are used for tappet, lifters, and other high contact pressure areas.
A 50/50 mixture of moly-fortified grease and motor oil would also act as an EP agent for minor rebuilds or parts replacements.
Most builders prefer to change oil after rebuild or run-in in order to flush not only the assembly lubes or greases, but to remove casting materials and other elements that might be abrasive.
Patman, we'll have to modify the glasses and the tie a bit!
Can anyone comment on the Redline assy lube?
I have a jar of it that I use for the bolts on my bolt action rifles. Seems to work pretty well.
Thx,
Scott
I have a jar of it that I use for the bolts on my bolt action rifles. Seems to work pretty well.
Thx,
Scott
I made some of this up last weekend to use when I reassembled a small compressor I rebuilt. It's pretty thick and quite tacky. Any way to thin it down slightly and have it still be effective?
I used to use Lubriplate #105 for everything but no one keeps it around anymore...
MolaKule
Staff member
Thin it down with LC.
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